Babani Perfumes

Babani Perfumes & Elizabeth Arden

Elizabeth Arden was also the importer of the ultra exclusive French Babani perfumes.

Babani's shop was located at 93, 98, and 98bis, boulevard Haussmann, Paris, France and were importers of Oriental wares, carpets, small furniture, and food, as well as a couture fashion house, they also offered exquisite perfumes blended by Maurice Babani.

The Babani company has very obscure beginnings but is believed to have been established around 1895 when Vitaldi Babani acquired an existing shop that specialized in goods imported from China and Japan. Here luxurious carpets, small furniture,  home decor, trinkets and even ethnic foods and spices were offered for sale to wealthy Parisians. 

Around 1900, V. Babani diversified with daring couture fashions and sumptuous Liberty of London fabrics. Then in 1906, he created a style inspired by the Far East, called "Le Niu-Tse". Babani was also influenced by the extravagant Ballets Russes and introduced oriental and Arabian fashions, made exquisite by the lavish usage of gold embroidery and ornate patterning. He also introduced the "Sphinxia", a special sewing machine manufactured expressly for gold chain stitch embroidery.

In 1905, Babani, an individual deeply connected with the cultures of the Orient and the Far East, made the most of his recent trip to Japan by stopping at his residence in Tabriz on his way back to Persia. Babani had an office at the renowned Kaisarieh bazaar. Although Tabriz has somewhat diminished from its ancient splendor, it remains a pivotal center for the carpet trade. Babani acquired some exquisite carpets during his visit. Persian artisans continue to excel in blending tones and combining colors with unparalleled subtlety. The diversity and originality of their designs add to the allure of their creations. The material value and high prices of these beautiful carpets are well-recognized, even within Persia.

In 1915, the following article was found in a French publication, L'Intransigeant, "Babani, a kimono merchant, left Paris during the war and quietly settled in Biarritz with his 25-year-old son, whose role is unclear. Babani has a brother who is also a Turkish citizen and an importer of raw materials, and this brother was recently in Paris. A former employee of Babani, who is now his competitor, opened a shop on Boulevard Haussmann near his old boss. This competitor is also a Turkish citizen, with a father who is a rabbi in Constantinople, and he has two brothers who were also Ottoman subjects. Despite the war and regulations, these people, who belong to a nation we are at war with, seem to be living quite peacefully."

 In 1919, his son, Maurice Babani became the second Paris couturier to introduce perfumes. During this period interest in all things Asian and Middle Eastern was reaching its peak. To answer the demand for these exotic trifles, perfumeries decided to release their Oriental inspired fragrances. Companies such as Rosine, Bichara and Arys competed against Babani to fill the shelves with their perfumes and to capture the heart of the Europeans and Americans. Babani proved to be very successful at the time which resulted in the opening of other shops. 

By 1920, Babani was still regarded as a prestigious importer of Oriental wares, but became even more notable for his perfumes which featured luxurious presentations of the highest calibre. 

To help market his perfumes, he relied on the mysterious East as the inspiration for his most famous tagline from 1920 "Parfums inconnus d'Orient et d'Extrême-Orient" ( roughly it means the Unknown perfumes of the Orient and Far-East). Looking at advertisements it seems he dropped the "unknown" part by 1923.

The exquisite perfume bottles were sold in the Elizabeth Arden salons on behalf of Babani Paris. The clear glass bottles had rich gold and black finishes and generally had Oriental themes. The bottles were produced by Maurice Depinoix and with enameling by Auzies. 

Elizabeth Arden, inspired by the success of Chanel and her iconic No. 5 perfumes, was driven to expand her beauty empire by adding fragrances to her portfolio. Recognizing the allure and prestige of French perfumes, she took a bold step. Arden, known for her entrepreneurial spirit, reached out to her sister Gladys, who resided in Paris, with a visionary plan. Rather than seeking to emulate Chanel directly, Arden sought exclusive American rights to a line of French perfumes.

In a letter to Gladys, Arden instructed her to explore local perfumeries and negotiate either the creation of new scents or exclusive distribution rights. Gladys, dutiful and resourceful, approached Maurice Babani of the esteemed Babani fashion house in Paris. Babani, a couturier with a knack for perfumery, graciously responded by sending Elizabeth Arden a selection of six distinctive fragrances he had personally crafted.

Faced with the difficult task of choosing just one scent, Arden made a daring decision: she opted to launch all six perfumes under her brand. This move not only showcased her confidence in Babani's creations but also reinforced her commitment to offering a diverse array of scents to her clientele. Among these fragrances was a special creation by Babani himself, aptly named "Mon Amie Elizabeth," a gesture of appreciation and collaboration.

As Arden's ambitions grew, she began commissioning bespoke perfumes blended specifically for her company in France. This marked the beginning of Elizabeth Arden's legacy in fragrance, characterized by a blend of French elegance and American innovation that would come to define her brand in the world of beauty.

"Babani Perfumes introduced in America by Elizabeth Arden and chosen by her to accompany her Venetian Toilet Preparations everywhere. The famous Babani perfumes of Elizabeth Arden each in itself a masterpiece of fragrance, can be blended to create a new per fume- of intangible delice - of elusive loveliness - unique - your own! The Toiletries Department will be helpful as to the requisite proportions for your blend."

• Ambre de Delhi: mystery, enchantment
• Ming: elfin, playful sweetness
• Ligeia: romantic, luxurious
• Afghani: colorful, riotous, untamed
• Jasmin de Coree: provocative, a challenge

An original 1925 advertisement for Elizabeth Arden states :

"Elizabeth Arden has introduced to America the fashion for combining two or three Babani perfumes to accent your varying charms. Blend two or more Babani perfumes to create a personal perfume formula, a new fragrance which no one can identify or imitate, that will emphasize your interesting complexity, will seem to vary as your charming moods, and yet be essentially you. All Babani perfumes will combine in fragrant harmonies. Elizabeth Arden suggests that you blend Babani's Ambre de Delhi with Ligeia. Or Babani's Chypre with Sousouki. Or create a blended perfume quite your own.The perfumes of Babani are imported by Elizabeth Arden in just the lovely bottles and boxes in which they are sealed in Paris."

Kansas City Star, 1925:

"Babani Perfumes are the choice of the smartest women of continental society. And the choice of every woman for her Christmas gift.  These fragrances lend themselves so well to the European manner of using perfume — of blending two or more perfumes to suit your mood and costume. Elizabeth Arden has chosen these perfumes as worthy of a place among her exquisite Venetian Toilet Preparations.   

Perfumes:

• Ambre de Delhi, parfum Hindu. $2.75-17.00.  
• Afghani, essence of the far East, $2.75-$7.00.  
• Ligeia, of orchid sweetness, $2.75-$7.00.  
• Ming, breath of Old China, $2.75-$6.50.  
• Yasmak, parfum Syrien, $2.76-$7.00.  
• Saigon, flower of the Orient, $2.75-$7.00.  
• Jasmin de Coree, a provocative odor, $2.75-$6.50. 
• Sousouki, of the delicateness of sachet, $2.75-$6.50. 
• Rose Gullistan, perfume of Persia, $2.75-$6.50.   

Toilet Water, of the same exquisite odors of Babani’s Perfumes, but of a delicate lightness. But far from being characterless— these Toilet Waters are as warm and vivid as fragrant flowers under the noonday sun. Each odor comes in an attractive bottle, at $4.50 each. "

Gift Sets from 1925:

Gift box containing Babani's Afghani, Ligeia and Yasmak; a graduated glass for mixing one's own blend and an empty bottle to put it into. $18

Beautiful box containing three 2 oz bottles of different Babani perfumes and an exquisite hand painted perfume atomizer. Snug within an oblong box rests three flacons of perfume and a small bulbous atomizer. Two bottles of Ligeia and one of Afghani, perfumes of orchid sweetness and Oriental enchantment may be blended together in the atomizer to make new odors. The two odors are to be blended in the dainty atomizer sprinkled with gold and flowers as needed. $35

Babani Giardini, antique gold decorated bottle in gift box. $12

Babani  Ambre de Delhi in a beautiful cut glass bottle. $18.

Oeillet du Japon $8.50

Ligeia $8.50

Jasmin de Coree $8.50

Choice of Babani perfumes in 1/2 ounce bottles.

In 1927, Babani changed the styles of his perfume bottles according to a newspaper advertisement. (shown in the ad below are the old styles). Gone were the sensuous Art Nouveau styles which were seen as "old fashioned" and replaced by new, modern styles in the Art Deco style.

"Babani of Paris is changing the styles of his perfume bottles. And so K & B is notified to sell all the present styles at close to half price. Odors include Ambre de Delhi, Afghani, Sousouki, Ligeia, Fleurs d'Annam, Yasmak, Chypre Egyptienne, Ming, Jasmin de Coree, and Rose Gullistan. Blend two or more in fragrant harmony in the manner sponsored by Elizabeth Arden to create a secret formula of your own."

Lawsuit Against Arden:

In 1930, Maurice Babani, a prominent French perfumer and owner of the well-known House of Babani in Paris, brought legal action against Elizabeth Arden, the leading American beauty specialist. Babani accused Arden of "stealing his stuff," referring to the alleged infringement of his copyrighted perfume designs and names. Babani's perfumes were highly regarded in the Paris market and were exported globally. Represented by the renowned French copyright lawyer, Maitre Maurice Flach, Babani was seeking several million francs in damages if he won the criminal action. Flach had recently secured a victory in a similar case for a group of Paris dressmakers whose designs were being copied by other firms.

For many years, Maurice Babani created perfumes for Elizabeth Arden, with Arden acting as Babani's agent in America. However, their business relationship ended in 1928. Following this rupture, Babani alleges that the Arden Company began to infringe upon his copyrighted perfume bottle designs and names. Babani employed detectives who, in collaboration with French police, uncovered a factory producing thousands of perfume bottles for Elizabeth Arden that were nearly identical to Babani's designs. Police, acting on Babani's charges, seized a quantity of these bottles, which were almost exact duplicates of those previously bought from Babani.

In connection with Babani's criminal case, Judge Delale ordered the seizure of the books of the Elizabeth Arden Company. This action was part of the ongoing legal process initiated by Babani against the Arden Company's Paris office, managed by Mrs. Jessie Graham, Elizabeth Arden's sister. Babani's grievances were presented to an examining magistrate, and he planned to file additional suits for several million francs in damages once a decision was reached. The case had been under review by the examining magistrate for some time before the judge's decision to seize the Arden Company's books.

The Chicago Tribune, 1930:

 "Following an order from Judge Delale, examining magistrate, the books of the Elizabeth Arden Company, fashionable beauty culturists, were seized yesterday by police. The Tribune has learned on reliable authority. The seizure was made in connection with a criminal process being pressed on by Maurice Babani, Paris perfumer, who has started an action against the Arden Company because of alleged infringement of copyright. 

Babani will sue the Arden Company for several millions francs damages if he wins the criminal action, it was learned. The Arden Company was for several years, the US agents for Babani's perfumes but a rupture took place about two years ago. After the two firms severed connections, the Arden Company is alleged to have infringed upon copyrighted designs of perfume bottles and names of perfumes, held by Babani.

At the instigation of Babani, police are said to have seized a quantity of perfume bottles ordered by the Arden Company, which were almost exact duplicates of a bottle they had formerly bought from Babani, it is declared on good authority. 

The famous French copyright lawyer, Maitre Maurice Flach, is representing Babani in the case. A few days ago, he won a long contested case for a group of Paris dressmakers whose ideas were being stolen by other frms. 

The action is placed against the Paris office of Elizabeth Arden, which is managed by Mrs Jessie graham, sister of Elizabeth Arden.

The house of Babani is one of the best known dress and perfume houses of Paris, exporting quantities of dresses and perfume to all parts of the word/

The case had been in the hands of the examining magistrate for some time previous to the decision on the part of the judge to seize the Arden Company's books."

The Kansas City Star, 1930:

"An angry French perfumer is bringing action against Elizabeth Arden, one of America's leading beauty specialists, for "stealing his stuff." He is Maurice Babani, whose scents are recognized as among the most subtle on the Paris market. M. Babani has taken his grievances to an examining magistrate and when he gets a decision he intends to file suits for several million francs damages. For years M. Babani made Elizabeth Arden's perfumes. Technically speaking, Elizabeth Arden was the agent in America for Babani's creations. Two years ago there was a rupture in their relations. Some months later. M. Babani employed detectives, who led the French police to the factory where, according to Babani's charges, thousands of bottles which were copies of Babani's were being produced for Elizabeth Arden."

A 1937 article in Le Figaro reads:

 "When the charming New Year's Day festival arrives, many brains are teased for a stylish return gift, the scent seems to combine the qualities necessary to perpetuate this beautiful tradition. I went to see Maurice Babani, the master of sweet perfumes, if I may borrow this delicate expression from Robert de Montesquiou. Already we know his famous Ambre, his Gardenia, Ming and Jasmin. These are true friends of the elegant woman, they announce her presence, with a perfumed trail following her. The most misanthropic turn around in it's path, sniffing the air and smiling in the clouds. 

But we must congratulate Babani on his newborns: Pao Pé - which console us on the trips to distant countries which we might never take - and Mon Amie Elisabeth, whose sweet aroma personifies the ideal companion when we cannot travel. Rêve-sur-Rêve, this is the distant echo of the strange, capricious and fragrant city, that leads you to the scents of Pao Pé and Mon Amie Elisabeth. 

Getting back to our gifts. Maurice Babani is also the master in the art of presentation. His bottles are cut with perfect taste: their lines are simple, pleasant: the large luxury bottles are the definition of high class. They sit in their padded satin caskets.  

Babani's perfumes flatter the five senses: smell, sight, touch. But, you might say, and taste? A bottle from Babani, is it not perfect taste? And hearing? Spray yourself, madam, with Pao-Pé or Mon Amie Elisabeth and your ears will collect the most flattering remarks.  

Soon you will be surprised with a new perfume that Maurice Babani is preparing: an oriental queen's perfume deciphered from the secret language on some old parchment."

D&CI, Volume 40, 1937:

"Babani recently opened a distributing office located at 521 Fifth Avenue, New York."

 Weekly review (later "illustrated review") - Volume 14, 1937:

"BABANI THE CHOICE OF A MING PERFUME" At a time when the charming celebrations of New Year's Day return, when many a brain teases itself to find an elegant gift, perfume seems to bring together the qualities necessary to perpetuate this lovely tradition.

I went to see Maurice. Babani, the "chief of sweet odors," if I dare borrow this expression from the delicate Robert de Montesquiou. We already knew his famous "Ambre", her "Gardenia", his "Ming" and his "Jasmin"... Faithful friends of the elegant woman, they announce her, they escort her, they follow her with an fragrant trail, the little misanthropes turn around as he passes, balsaming the air and smiling to the skies. But we must congratulate Babani on the newborns: 'Pao-Pé', which consoles trips to distant countries that we will never make, and “Mon Amie Élisabeth' (My friend Elisabeth), whose sweet aroma undoubtedly personifies the ideal companion of these so-called journeys... Rêve-sur-Rêve, such is the distant, fragrant, strange capricious city where the scents of 'Pao-Pé' and 'My friend Élisabeth' lead you.

Let's get back to our gifts. Maurice Babani is a master in the Art of Presentation. Its bottles are cut with perfect taste, their line is simple, pleasant; the large luxury bottles really have what we call “classy”. They rest in their satin padded boxes. A Babani perfume flatters all five senses: smell, sight, touch. But what about the taste? Doesn’t a bottle of Babani taste perfect? And the wave? Spray yourself, Madam, with, 'Pao-Pe,' 'Mon Amie Elisabeth' and your ears will collect the most flattering remarks. Soon you will be surprised by a new perfume that Maurice Babani is preparing: a perfume of the Orient and of a queen whose secret language he deciphered on some old parchment.[This is the Secret Princesse Nefertiti perfume]"

D&CI, Volume 42, 1938:

"Babani: "Ming" is one of the delightful odors of the newly packaged de luxe line of Babani perfumes, which is being introduced in the United States by Maurice Babani."

 

The Babani fragrance list:

• 1919 Ambre de Delhi (Parfum de Hindou)
• 1919 Afghani 
• 1919 Jasmin de Coree
• 1919 Chypre Egyptien
• 1919 Yasmak (Parfum Syrien)
• 1920 Saigon (Parfum Chinois)
• 1920 Shogum (Parfum Japonais)
• 1920 Giardini
• c1920 Nuit de Bosphore
• 1920 Secret de Babani
• 1920 Ligéia (Parfum de Manille)
• 1920 Oeillet du Japon (Parfum Japonais)
• 1920 Ming (Parfum Chinois)
• 1920 Narcisse d'Or
• 1920 Muguet
• 1921 Daimo (Parfum Japonais)
• 1921 Fleurs d'Annan (Parfum d'Annamite)
• 1921 Sousouki
• 1922 Pao-Pe
• 1923 Rose Gullistan (Parfum Persiane)
• 1925 Blend 
• 1925 Écaille Blonde
• 1925 Nandita
• 1926 Chypre
• 1926 Mon Amie Elizabeth (still sold in 1936)
• 1926 Abdulla (Abdalla was also trademarked)
• 1926 Extrait d'Ambre Gris
• 1926 Nuit de Deauville
• 1928 Just a Dash
• 1928 Soleil Blonde
• 1930 105 (One Hundred Five)
• 1930 Gardenia
• 1930 Pin Fleur
• 1935 Jasmin
• 1938 Secret Princesse Nefertiti
• 1940 Tombak
• 1942 Elusive
• 1943 Echo of the Desert

Babani Catalog Numbers:

"Madam, each of our perfumes is an oriental secret...study these various images carefully and try to uncover the secret....but as you are very impatient you will undoubtedly ask your usual perfumer.. .or even write to us...we are in this case at your disposal and very flattered. Madam, of your curiosity...

In yourself and on yourself, create this personality which characterizes the crazy woman. Ambre de Delhi is an exquisite scent of discreet smoking and warm furs. Yasmak is unrivaled in its freshness, it is a true secret of the Harems...The Ligeia which comes from Manila, in its bottle of powdered gold lacquer, is mysterious like the one whose memory it evokes...The Daimo is light and subtle, but its tenacity is incomparable...Fleurs d'Annam is a clever concentrated blend of a thousand flowers from Annam. We are all, we don't define any of them..The Ming is very fresh."

Series 75: Silk and gold box containing your choice of Oeillet du Japon or Jasmin de Coree. The Bottle...45 fr.

Series 42: In this Far Eastern bottle, a choice of the following two perfumes: Ambre de Delhi and Saigon

No. 353: Rose Gullistan. Persian perfume, cut bottle, original box.

Series 30: Flat bottle in gold box. 35 fr.

• No. 130 Ambre de Delhi
• No. 230 Saigon
• No. 530 Afghani

Series 11:  Serie 11. "Boule Flacon" in 'Hindu' box, gold embroidered silk, containing your choice: Ambre de Delhi, Saigon, Afghani, Rose Gullistan.

Series 31: Ball-shaped bottle, gold box. 50 fr.

• No. 131 Ambre de Delhi
• No. 231 Saigon
• No. 531 Afghani

No. 1029 - Ligeia, perfume of Manila. Original gold lacquer bottle. Gold case, jade interior. 65 fr.

No. 80 - Box of powder. Ambre de Delhi scented powder. I have the following six shades to choose from: ocher, light ocher, natural, white and Rachel. 9 fr.

Series 1309: Chinese bottle, colorless glass, with openworked glass stopper of two dolphins, gold and silver box. 32. fr. 50

• No. 63 Fleurs d’Annam
• No. 93 Daimo
• No. 107 Ming
• No. 109 Ligeia
• No. 160 Narcisse d'Or
• No. 160 Sousouki 
• No. 179 Oeillet du Japon
• No. 189 Jasmin de Coree
• No. 330 Rose Gullistan 

No. 631: Fleurs d'Annam, a thousand flowers of the Orient. Silver box, mauve satin interior. 50fr.

Series 910: Approximately 1/8 liter bottle, gold box, containing your choice: 

• Ambre de Delhi, Saigon or Afghani.

Same model approximately 1/4 liter bottle, gold box, containing your choice: 

• Ambre de Delhi, Saigon or Afghani.

Same model approximately 1/2 liter bottle, gold box, containing your choice: 

• Ambre de Delhi, Saigon or Afghani

No. 484: Shogum,” Japanese perfume in an original dark ocher bottle. Matching boxes.

No. 930: Daimo, Japanese perfume. Red and gold box, silk interior. 30fr.

No. 1003 - Ambre de Delhi, Saigon, Afghani, Gullistan Rose, Ligeia, Shogun, Oeillet du Japon, Yasmak, Ming, Jasmin de Coree, Daimo and Fleurs d'Annam. Our 12 perfumes below in a red and gold Chinese box. 90fr.

No. 98 - Giardini "Le Flacon Arbre" Deluxe Flacon X. 79fr.

No. 99 - Giardini Regular Flacon B. 79fr.

No. 133 - Ambre de Delhi in gold bottle: