Elizabeth Arden's choice of the name "On Dit" for her 1937 fragrance evokes intrigue and sophistication. Meaning "They Say" in French (pronounced awn-dee), the phrase captures the essence of gossip, rumor, and the seductive allure of whispered secrets. The name, steeped in the elegance of the French language, reflects the global fascination with Parisian chic during the interwar years. It conjures images of soirées where women exchanged hushed confidences and elusive glances over champagne, their elegance enhanced by the subtle, intoxicating aura of their perfume.
In the 1930s, women were embracing a new modernity while holding on to traditional notions of glamour. A perfume named "On Dit" would have resonated with women who delighted in the thrill of mystery and the power of allure. It symbolized a statement of confidence, sophistication, and the art of leaving a lasting impression. For women of the era, "On Dit" was not just a fragrance—it was a character, a story, and an invitation to step into an air of elegant secrecy.
Created by the legendary Edmond Roudnitska, On Dit is classified as a floral oriental fragrance with a distinctive chypre backbone. The opening dazzles with the sharp brilliance of citron and lemongrass, accented by effervescent aldehydes and the juicy sweetness of fresh peaches. This initial brightness has been likened to the peachy opening of Mitsouko by Guerlain, a fragrance that redefined chypre compositions.
At its heart, On Dit blooms with a bouquet of timeless florals: the heady richness of jasmine, the powdery softness of heliotrope, the romantic allure of rose, and the creamy opulence of tuberose. These are heightened by the spicy clove-like nuances of carnation, adding depth and warmth to the composition.
The base grounds the fragrance in earthy and resinous notes, with galbanum's green sharpness, vetiver's smoky sophistication, and musk's sensual depth. Leafy, mossy undertones and the fresh, sappy accords evoke the verdant stillness of a shaded forest, giving On Dit a rooted, natural elegance.
On Dit was launched during a period when bold, complex fragrances dominated the market. Chypre scents, epitomized by Mitsouko (1919), had cemented their place in perfumery, and women sought sophisticated compositions that mirrored their evolving roles in society. The 1930s also saw the rise of aldehydic florals, led by the iconic Chanel No. 5, as well as a fascination with rich orientals like Shalimar (1925).
While On Dit shared some elements with these iconic fragrances, such as the peachy aldehydic top and chypre undertones, it stood out by marrying sparkling citrus brightness with a lush floral heart and a green, mossy depth. It bridged the divide between the exuberance of aldehydic florals and the mystery of oriental chypres, offering a scent that was at once modern and timeless.
For women in 1937, On Dit would have been both a nod to the trends of the time and a unique statement of individuality. Its enigmatic name, coupled with its multilayered composition, allowed it to stand out as a fragrance that whispered of secrets, elegance, and the confidence to own one's story.
Femme, 1950:
"On Dit (They say)... whispers at first, quiet and fleeting, passing from ear to ear like a secret carried on the wind. They say... they say... the rumor travels, the breeze carries it along, and with it, the allure of seduction takes hold. It's On Dit, a perfume by Elizabeth Arden, one of her four remarkable creations. They say it is refined and elegant, a perfect choice for autumn days. Just as Blue Grass delights spring with its fresh scent of blooming meadows, My Love and Flower Mist bring charm and versatility to every season. Among them, Flower Mist, with its light and youthful freshness, is particularly recommended for young girls, capturing the essence of their innocence and vitality."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. It starts with a sharp citrus top notes of citron and lemongrass combined with sparkling aldehydes and fresh peaches, a floral heart of jasmine, heliotrope, rose, tuberose and the pungency of carnation, layered over woody, mossy and leafy chypre notes of galbanum, vetiver and musk with fresh saps evocative of the forest. Similar to Mitsouko by Guerlain with its peach effect in the beginning.
- Top notes: cassie, lemon, bitter almond, bergamot, citron bark, galbanum, aldehydes, peach, lemongrass, petitgrain, neroli, blackcurrant buds, marigold
- Middle notes: eugenol, ionones, orange blossom, carnation, Bulgarian rose, Peruvian heliotrope, jasmine, tuberose, iris, ylang ylang, mimosa, clary sage, gardenia, violet leaf
- Base notes: vetiver, vanillin, labdanum, patchouli, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, cedar, ambergris, musk, Peru balsam, civet, coumarin, benzoin, tolu balsam, guaiac, tonka bean, castoreum
Combat, 1955:
On Dit by Elizabeth Arden is a luminous floral oriental fragrance that captivates with its delicate balance of lightness and warmth. Bright lemongrass introduces a sparkling freshness, lifting the rich, amber-laden heart entwined with opulent jasmine. Tuberose and Bulgarian rose lend a lush, romantic depth, while tender iris adds a powdery elegance. The oriental warmth of sandalwood anchors the composition, creating an inviting and sensual foundation. This fragrance evokes the allure of an intimate confession whispered in a cozy parlor, yet its radiant charm extends to the expansive joy of holiday celebrations, embodying both intimacy and boundless freedom.
Bottles:
On Dit by Elizabeth Arden was presented in a variety of exquisite bottles over the years, each reflecting the luxurious and playful spirit of the fragrance. Among the most notable designs was a frosted glass bottle adorned with bas-relief depictions of two women. The imagery directly referenced the perfume’s name, On Dit—French for "They Say…"—a nod to whispered gossip and intimate confidences. One woman is shown whispering into her companion’s ear, her hand discreetly covering her mouth. The intricate detailing extended to the bottle's top, which represented the women's curling hairdos, forming an elegant overcap that concealed an inner glass stopper. This design, introduced in 1946, was crafted in France but was not, as sometimes claimed, produced by Lalique.
Harper's Bazaar, 1946:
Modern Packaging, 1947:
"Elizabeth Arden's new French perfume, "On Dit", in a baroque bottle, 1 oz, $ 37.50."
Modern Packaging, 1947:
"Elizabeth Arden's On Dit "Carousel" perfume uses a fragile, frosted French bottle with bas-relief profiles of lovely ladies whispering to one another set on a die-cut platform."
The presentation was further enhanced by the "Carousel Package," a whimsical, tented box design that resembled a merry-go-round. For an even more luxurious offering, a limited edition incorporated a functioning music box, allowing the bottle to revolve like a carousel as music played. This thoughtful packaging embodied Arden's flair for merging beauty and artistry, making the perfume as delightful to behold as it was to wear.
The frosted bottle came in two sizes: 1.25 ounces, standing at 3.75 inches tall, and 2.25 ounces, measuring 4.25 inches in height. Other iterations of the On Dit bottle included a striking ovoid shape with molded wavy lines, as well as more straightforward, less expensive designs that allowed the fragrance to reach a broader audience while maintaining its charm.
The gilded foil paper label on this flacon continued the whispering ladies theme, subtly referencing the perfume's name, On Dit ("They Say..."). The label’s design depicted the two women in a moment of hushed conversation, their discreet exchange of whispers captured in an understated, yet evocative manner. This bottle, while simpler than the more elaborate offerings, still exuded a sense of sophistication and charm, making it a delightful and affordable option for fragrance enthusiasts who appreciated both the design and the story behind the scent.
Cue, 1949:
"Elizabeth Arden encloses her Blue Grass, Night and Day and It's You perfumes in heart-shaped, jeweled boxes at $2.25 and $3.25. She also puts a golden flacon of On Dit on a vermillion cushion in a transparent, heart-shaped box. $12."
Cue, 1950:
"His jeweled coronet is the top of a Perfumair, obtainable in any of Miss Arden's fine fragrances. $ 2.75. Or you might prefer her charming little paper weight in all which a bottle of " On Dit "perfume nestles in violet flowers inside a transparent ball."
The New Yorker, 1950:
"Here, in a precious little jewel of a bottle, Elizabeth Arden presents a new way of carrying her lovely perfumes. Perfumair... My Love, It's You, On Dit, Night and Day , White Orchid, Blue Grass."
Torso Bottle:
In 1952, Elizabeth Arden introduced a bold and sensual new version of the On Dit bottle, which reimagined the perfume's packaging in the form of a female torso. This striking bottle design featured a sculpted female figure, her arms wrapped elegantly around her body, with her head serving as the stopper. The bottle was crafted from frosted glass, giving it a soft, ethereal appearance, and was adorned with delicate gilded accents, though some versions were left without any gilding for a simpler, more minimalist look. The sculptural design evoked both grace and sensuality, transforming the fragrance's bottle into a work of art in itself.
This new presentation was made in France, continuing the tradition of fine craftsmanship associated with On Dit. The bottle was offered in three different sizes: a 3.75-inch tall version that held 15/32 oz of parfum, a 4.5-inch tall bottle, and the most dramatic size at 7 1/8 inches tall, which held 4.5 oz of parfum, a generous quantity for the time. The larger sizes, particularly the towering 7 1/8-inch bottle, commanded attention and made a statement on any vanity or dressing table.
The New Yorker, 1952:
"Elizabeth Arden does up On Dit perfume (we're off rose scents for the moment) in giant female torso swathed in drapery— a Lalique job — for $78."
The On Dit torso bottle quickly became iconic, with its bold design earning praise from collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike. The New Yorker, in 1952, described it as "a giant female torso swathed in drapery—a Lalique job—for $78," referencing the famous glassmaker René Lalique, though the bottles were not actually created by him. This design signified a departure from traditional perfume bottle aesthetics, embracing a more modern, sculptural approach that aligned with the glamour and boldness of the era. It reflected the growing trend toward luxurious, artistic packaging in fragrance, making On Dit not just a scent, but a statement piece.
Pineapple Bottle:
An unusual bottle made up of ribbed pressed glass stands 5 3/4" tall. I call this the "pineapple flacon." This bottle appears to have been introduced in 1952. It held "On Dit Eau de France", which I believe was some sort of eau de parfum concentration.
Fate of the Fragrance:
On Dit by Elizabeth Arden faced a production hiatus during World War II, as many perfume companies, like others in the luxury goods industry, were forced to adjust their operations due to wartime constraints. The disruption in the availability of ingredients and materials, combined with the shift in manufacturing priorities toward wartime needs, led to a temporary suspension of the fragrance’s production. The war years, with their challenges and sacrifices, altered many facets of daily life, including the perfume industry, which found itself struggling to maintain the glamour and luxury once associated with its products.
However, as soon as the war ended in 1945, On Dit was relaunched with renewed vigor, capitalizing on the post-war desire for luxury, sophistication, and the return to normalcy. The fragrance’s revival was part of a broader post-war trend where many brands aimed to reassert their presence in the market, offering fragrances that promised a sense of elegance and escapism after the hardships of the war years. The scent’s return reflected the optimism and celebration of peace that characterized the era, and On Dit re-entered the public consciousness as a symbol of feminine allure and refinement.
Despite the excitement surrounding its return, On Dit was eventually discontinued at some point, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unclear. The fragrance, however, left behind a lasting legacy, with its unique design and distinctive scent continuing to be appreciated by collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike. Though it may no longer be in production, the memory of On Dit remains tied to a significant moment in perfume history—one that encapsulates both the resilience of the perfume industry during tumultuous times and the lavish, luxurious spirit of the post-war era.
HOLA y buen día!! Desde Mendoza/Argentina...busqué entre las presentaciones una botella menos lujosa...que tuve a mis 15 años ...en 1976...🤩
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