La Joie d'Elizabeth by Elizabeth Arden was launched in 1927, joining a distinguished collection of perfumes that defined the era's fragrance scene. Alongside Le Jardin d'Elizabeth, Le Réve d'Elizabeth, and L'Etoile d'Elizabeth, these perfumes were designed to evoke human emotions and relationships, rather than the typical emphasis on florals. As described by the company, the fragrances were "unusual and beautiful," with each housed in square-cut crystal bottles of exquisite simplicity.
The name "La Joie d'Elizabeth" translates from French as "The Joy of Elizabeth", pronounced lah zhwa duh-eh-lee-zeh-bet. The word "Joie", meaning "joy," immediately conjures images of lightness, happiness, and celebration. It is a word brimming with vitality, evoking feelings of exuberance, freedom, and the carefree innocence of youth. For women in the 1920s, an era characterized by the post-World War I liberation and the advent of the Roaring Twenties, this perfume would have been seen as a symbol of optimism, rebirth, and the joy of newfound possibilities. It was the essence of spring captured in a bottle—delicate, bright, and full of life. The name "La Joie d'Elizabeth" promised a fragrance that was light, effervescent, and filled with youthful energy, and indeed, this is precisely what it delivered.
The perfume itself was described as an embodiment of youth, fleeting and feminine, classified as a light floral fragrance. "La Joie d'Elizabeth" was "the incarnation of Joy," a scent that captured the essence of spring. Imagine the soft, floral notes of freshly blooming flowers, the delicate touch of green grass, and the sense of a warm breeze carrying the promise of new beginnings. It would have resonated with women of the time as a celebration of life’s beauty, mirroring the fresh air of post-war freedom. For those in the 1920s, La Joie d'Elizabeth was not just a perfume; it was a mood, a memory encapsulated in scent, evoking the emotional landscape of springtime, full of promise and joy.
The timing of La Joie d'Elizabeth's release was notable for its positioning within a broader fragrance movement. The 1920s was a decade rich with change, as the world moved past the somber aftermath of the First World War. Fragrance trends of the time, such as those established by Chanel No. 5 in 1921, favored sophisticated and more complex compositions, often rooted in aldehydes and heavier floral and woody accords. La Joie d'Elizabeth, in contrast, offered a lighter, more elusive composition that tapped into a sense of youthful exuberance. Its floral delicacy, offering a fresh interpretation of femininity, stood in contrast to the deeper, more opulent perfumes emerging in other parts of the world.
Interestingly, in 1930, French fashion designer Jean Patou introduced his Joy, a fragrance that would go on to become one of the most iconic perfumes of the 20th century. Like La Joie d'Elizabeth, Joy was also a celebration of joy and vitality, though with a richer, more extravagant formulation, blending jasmine and rose at its heart. While both perfumes were designed to evoke similar emotions of happiness and springtime, La Joie d'Elizabeth remains a testament to the idea of youthful, delicate joy captured in a bottle—a fragrant expression of optimism and possibility for women navigating the modern world.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light floral fragrance for women. Described as "light, elusive and feminine" with a "subtle blend of enticing fragrances" resulting in "a vivacious, floral perfume for young women." It was suggested to be worn during sports like tennis and with clothing in shades of linen and beige, cocktail of choice would be the Gin Rickey, a classic drink made from gin, lime juice sugar syrup and soda water, garnished with a lime peel.
- Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, neroli
- Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, violet, lily, honeysuckle
- Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, tonka bean, patchouli
Good Housekeeping, 1928:
"LA JOIE D'ELIZABETH, a new vivacious perfume, with a subtle blend of enticing fragrances. In a smart cubical bottle and French gray suede container. $22."
Scent Profile:
As you first inhale La Joie d'Elizabeth, the top notes greet you with a bright, effervescent burst. The aldehydes shimmer like a fleeting cloud of sparkling dust, lifting the senses with their clean, soapy freshness. They're quickly joined by the zest of lemon, which infuses the air with a crisp, tangy sharpness that evokes a sense of fresh morning dew. The bergamot adds its citrus warmth, offering a slightly spicy edge that smooths over the bright citrus, making the opening feel balanced and sophisticated. Then, the subtle, almost honeyed bitterness of neroli emerges, its delicate, floral-citrus aroma gently enfolding the senses, like a soft, fragrant breeze through orange blossoms in bloom.
As the fragrance settles into its heart, the middle notes unfurl like a delicate bouquet of blooming flowers, each one more enchanting than the last. Jasmine sways gracefully in the air, its rich, heady floral aroma filling the space with a touch of sweetness and opulence. The cool, dewy sweetness of lily of the valley weaves its way through the jasmine, evoking the image of fresh springtime mornings, where the flowers kiss the damp earth.
As the blend continues to blossom, the velvety, soft petals of rose unfurl, adding a timeless, romantic essence to the composition, enhancing the floral delicacy. Violet follows with its powdery, green floral note, offering a soft, comforting layer that feels like a gentle caress. The ethereal, fresh scent of lily adds another layer of floral purity, reminiscent of a quiet garden in full bloom, while the honeysuckle lends a sweet, slightly nectar-like essence, as if the fragrance itself were blooming with light and warmth.
The base notes anchor the composition with a subtle depth that adds complexity to its otherwise light, airy profile. Ambergris introduces a soft, salty-sweet warmth, its mysterious, animalic undertones lending a sense of oceanic tranquility, like a breath of sea air mingling with the warmth of the sun. Oakmoss follows, wrapping the fragrance in a soft, earthy veil, grounding the florals with its green, woody aroma, like the scent of a damp forest floor. The smooth, creamy warmth of sandalwood emerges, its rich, milky quality creating an elegant, silky backdrop for the lighter floral notes, lending the perfume an air of quiet luxury.
Musk deepens the base further, its sensual, subtle warmth adding a comforting, skin-like softness that seems to blend effortlessly with the wearer. Tonka bean brings a faintly sweet, vanilla-like richness to the base, its slightly balsamic depth adding a touch of sweetness that balances the freshness of the top and middle notes. Finally, a hint of patchouli adds just a whisper of earthiness, grounding the fragrance with its warm, slightly spicy undertones, as though it is subtly hinting at the complexity beneath the perfume’s youthful, exuberant surface.
In La Joie d'Elizabeth, each ingredient builds upon the last, creating a fragrance that feels effortlessly joyful and feminine. The light floral notes are brightened by citrus and softened by a delicate base, resulting in a perfume that is as vivacious as it is graceful—a true embodiment of youthful joy and timeless elegance.
Home Journal, 1929:
"La Joie d'Elizabeth - Le Reve d'Elizabeth - Mon Amie Elizabeth - L'Amour d'Elizabeth These four perfumes — creations of Elizabeth Arden — are being introduced in Elizabeth Arden Salons throughout the world."
"La Joie d'Elizabeth - an irresistible bouquet odor - the fragrance of youth - modern youth, with all of its gaiety and happy laughter, is at the same time perfectly poised and unbelievably wise."
The Chicagoan, 1931:
" ELIZABETH ARDEN'S FAMOUS FIVE FRAGRANCES... L' Amour, Le Reve, Mon Amie, La Joie and L'Elan... express the emotions in perfumes that are incomparably delightful. In many sizes, priced from $15 to $125. The twin box contains a combination of any two of the Five Fragrances. $6."
Harper's Bazaar, 1933:
"Elizabeth Arden's La Joie, Le Reve, L'Amour, L'Elan, Tuberose and Moon Moss, atomizer included, $7.50 to $125."
"LUCKEY'S PERFUME BAR ATTRACTS Many each day to its distinctive display of Elizabeth Arden Perfumes. We have these choice preparations: Le Reve D'Elizabeth —an elusive odor of dream-like charm: perfect for furs; La Joie D'Elizabeth —Happiness captured in fragrance; L'Elan D'Elizabeth —Rich, warm and irresistible; Tuberose —The true odor of the flower itself. These fragrances are reserved for those who are sensitive to perfection in perfumes. They are priced at $1.00 a dram."
DC & I, 1935:
"ELIZABETH ARDEN brings out her charming "Perfume Trio" set, — one dram size bottles of three of her delightful perfumes, Blue Grass, L'Amour d'Elizabeth, and La Joie d'Elizabeth, all packed in a lovely white and silver box. These dram size bottles are priced at $1 each.."
Bottles:
The cube-shaped crystal bottle, an enduring hallmark of Elizabeth Arden’s early packaging, is a study in elegant simplicity. Crafted from clear crystal, its geometric form exudes modern sophistication, perfectly aligning with the sleek Art Deco aesthetic of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The bottle's clean lines and precise symmetry reflect a sense of refinement that enhances the luxurious nature of the perfume it houses.
Adorning the front, black silk-screened enamel lettering provides a stark, graphic contrast to the transparency of the crystal. The lettering, delicately applied, not only identifies the scent but also contributes to the bottle’s minimalist appeal. Its ground glass cube-shaped stopper fits seamlessly into the bottle’s opening, completing the cohesive design. This precision fit ensured the precious perfume within was protected from evaporation while maintaining the understated elegance of the flacon.
Elizabeth Arden used this versatile cube flacon for several of her scents, including the famous Blue Grass. It was offered in three distinct sizes to suit different preferences: a diminutive 2-inch version, a medium 3-inch size, and the 5/16 oz bottle, somewhere in the middle which stands at 2.25 inches tall. Despite their small stature, these bottles were objects of luxury and desire, embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and aesthetic excellence.
A rare variation of this design elevates its collectible appeal—a luxurious version fitted with a chrome-plated atomizer mechanism with silken cord and bulb. These bottles were available in larger sizes and some were used as tester flacons in Elizabeth Arden salons, making them exceedingly scarce today. The juxtaposition of the polished chrome hardware against the clear crystal cube added a unique industrial edge to the otherwise delicate design. Because of their rarity and association with the glamorous world of Arden salons, these atomizer bottles are highly sought after by collectors, prized not only for their scarcity but also for their historical significance in the evolution of luxury perfume packaging.
The cube crystal bottle remains a timeless symbol of Elizabeth Arden’s innovative approach to design, merging functionality with an understated elegance that defined her brand and captivated the imaginations of her clientele.
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An exceptionally rare and remarkable find in Elizabeth Arden's collection is the largest version of the iconic cube-shaped crystal bottle, designed to hold an impressive 32 ounces of parfum. This grand flacon, a true statement of opulence, retailed for $125 in 1930—a staggering sum equivalent to approximately $2,307.49 in 2024's currency. The bottle's sheer size, combined with its luxurious design, made it a symbol of exclusivity and affluence, catering to only the most discerning clientele. Its substantial capacity emphasized the rarity and value of the parfum it contained, elevating it to a status beyond mere fragrance. Today, surviving examples of this monumental bottle are not only testaments to Elizabeth Arden's commitment to luxury but also prized artifacts of early 20th-century perfume history, coveted by collectors for their rarity and historical significance.
The launch of Elizabeth Arden's largest 32-ounce parfum bottle in 1930 is particularly striking when viewed against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This period, marked by widespread economic hardship, unemployment, and financial instability, saw a sharp decline in consumer spending. For many, luxury items such as fine perfumes were an unattainable extravagance. Yet, the existence and pricing of this grand flacon, retailing at $125 (equivalent to over $2,300 today), underscore Elizabeth Arden's strategic appeal to a niche market untouched by financial strain—wealthy patrons who continued to seek and afford symbols of refinement and status even in challenging times.
The bottle, with its monumental size and price tag, served as a beacon of aspiration and exclusivity. It was more than a container for fragrance; it represented resilience and luxury in a world grappling with scarcity. For those who could afford it, such a purchase may have been a means to assert their personal success or escape the grim realities of the era, enveloped in the glamour and comfort Arden's brand promised. This bold marketing move during the Great Depression highlights the duality of luxury—both a reflection of societal challenges and a celebration of enduring elegance amidst adversity.
La Joie d'Elizabeth, photo by Baron de Meyer.
This is an exquisite Elizabeth Arden La Joie Vintage Perfume Bottle with original box. The delicate pink flower-shaped stopper is wired on to the neck of the bottle. The opalescent bottle rests in the pink fabric-lined box which is stamped on the back "Box made in France."
The bottom of the bottle has a gold metallic sticker which reads "La Joie, Distributor, Contents 1/4 fl. oz." The box has yellow cellophane fringe on the top and bottom.
The silver sticker reads "La Joie, Elizabeth Arden, New York, Distributor, Contents 1/4 fl. oz."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Both the perfume and its exquisite crystal cube bottles were crafted in France, a reflection of Elizabeth Arden's dedication to sourcing the finest materials and production for her luxury brand. The French origin of the fragrance underscored its prestige, with every aspect—from the quality of the ingredients to the meticulous craftsmanship of the bottles—carefully curated to exude sophistication. However, this reliance on French production proved to be a vulnerability with the onset of World War II.
By 1940, the escalating conflict and the resulting disruptions to trade made it increasingly difficult to import the essential ingredients and bottles from France. As wartime shortages and logistical challenges mounted, the Arden company was forced to discontinue production of this remarkable perfume. While leftover stock continued to appear in advertisements as late as 1944, the remaining bottles were sold at drastically reduced prices, a stark contrast to their original luxury positioning. This clearance marked the end of an era for this particular fragrance, which would never be produced again, even after the war's conclusion.
Today, the perfume's brief production period, coupled with its discontinuation during such a tumultuous time, has rendered it one of Elizabeth Arden’s most elusive and sought-after fragrances. The rarity of surviving bottles makes them highly desirable among collectors, not just for their historical significance but also as poignant artifacts of a world forever changed by the impact of war.
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