L'Amour d'Elizabeth by Elizabeth Arden c1928

In 1927, Elizabeth Arden introduced L’Amour d’Elizabeth, one of four signature fragrances launched that year under her name. These perfumes, exclusively sold at her salons around the world, stood out for their emotional inspiration rather than relying solely on floral themes. The square-cut crystal bottles housing these fragrances were described as being of "exquisite simplicity," a reflection of Arden's refined aesthetic and dedication to elegance. Each scent embodied a human relationship or emotion, and L’Amour d’Elizabeth was devoted to the greatest of all—love.

The name L’Amour d’Elizabeth, meaning "The Love of Elizabeth" in French, is pronounced as lah-MOOR deh-lee-za-beth. The choice of French, the language of romance and luxury, added to the perfume’s allure and exclusivity. It evoked imagery of passion, devotion, and sophistication, transporting wearers to a world of intimate glamour and opulence. For women of the 1920s, this name would have been deeply resonant; the Jazz Age was a time of liberation, self-expression, and embracing the idea of romance as an essential part of life. To own and wear a perfume named L’Amour d’Elizabeth was to envelop oneself in an aura of passion and elegance, a promise of romantic allure that suited the desires of the era.

The fragrance itself was described as "heady," "warm and rich," and "satisfying," perfectly capturing the emotional depth of its inspiration. Classified as a sweet floral oriental fragrance, it was designed to complement luxurious furs, an accessory synonymous with sophistication in the 1920s. The scent was said to bestow an aura of romance, blending the warmth of its oriental notes with the sweetness of its florals, creating a captivating olfactory experience that lingered beautifully on the wearer.

The late 1920s marked a period of great innovation in perfumery, with many scents embracing complex oriental compositions and decadent floral blends. This trend reflected the cultural zeitgeist of the Jazz Age, where opulence and indulgence reigned supreme. L’Amour d’Elizabeth fit perfectly within this context yet distinguished itself with its unique dedication to emotion and its warm, rich profile. It offered a sense of intimacy and passion that went beyond mere fashion, aligning with Arden's philosophy of creating fragrances that spoke to the essence of the modern woman.

By combining emotional resonance with olfactory sophistication, L’Amour d’Elizabeth became a symbol of timeless elegance and romance, leaving a legacy that endures as a testament to Arden's visionary approach to perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is described as "heady" and "warm and rich" and is classified as a sweet floral oriental fragrance for women. It was designed to use on furs and worn with clothes the color of "starlight blue," and the cocktail of choice would be the Orange Blossom, a drink made from gin, Cointreau triple sec liqueur, lime juice and grenadine and garnished with orange zest.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, aldehydes, ylang ylang, violet
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orange blossom, gardenia, tuberose, heliotrope, carnation, orris
• Base notes: vanilla, musk, sandalwood, ambergris, oakmoss, labdanum, tonka bean, benzoin, patchouli, civet, opoponax, vetiver, cedar

Ladies Home Journal, 1927:

"Mon Amie Elizabeth- the perfect gift of a friend to a friend. L'Amour d'Elizabeth - the glory of love in fragrance. Le Reve d'Elizabeth - the perfume of dreams. La Joie d'Elizabeth - the joyous ardor of love. "

Home Journal, 1929:

"La Joie d'Elizabeth / Le Reve d'Elizabeth / Mon Amie Elizabeth / L'Amour d'Elizabeth These four perfumes - creations of Elizabeth Arden - are being introduced in Elizabeth Arden Salons throughout the world."

The Amarillo Globe Times, 1929:

"L'Amour d'Elizabeth - this fragrance is dedicated to the greatest of human emotions, is as warm and rich and satisfying as the name implies. It gives an aura of romance to the woman who uses it."

Scent Profile: 

The fragrance opens with the radiant sparkle of bergamot, a citrus note that feels like sunshine distilled into droplets. Its tangy brightness is softened by the slightly sweet, honeyed floral nuance of neroli, derived from orange blossoms, evoking a fresh Mediterranean breeze. Aldehydes add a fizzy, champagne-like quality, shimmering like fine crystals, and imbuing the fragrance with an ethereal sophistication. 

The rich, exotic sweetness of ylang ylang wafts in, carrying creamy banana-like undertones that immediately transport you to a tropical paradise. Finally, the delicate powdery sweetness of violet drifts through, lending a soft, nostalgic elegance that balances the vivacity of the citrus notes.

As the top notes fade, the heart of the perfume blooms into an opulent bouquet. Rose, both lush and dewy, anchors the composition with its timeless beauty, while jasmine contributes its heady, narcotic allure, reminiscent of moonlit gardens. Orange blossom, fresh and radiant, dances alongside the creamy, almost buttery richness of gardenia, their interplay creating a luminous floral harmony. 

The intoxicating depth of tuberose adds a sultry creaminess, while heliotrope whispers a subtle sweetness, tinged with the comforting warmth of almonds and vanilla. Carnation, with its spicy, clove-like edge, heightens the fragrance’s richness, and orris, with its velvety, powdery texture, lends a soft sophistication, like the brushed silk lining of a fur coat.

As the florals settle, the base unveils its warm, sensual embrace. The creamy sweetness of vanilla intertwines with the soft animalic warmth of musk, creating an irresistible aura of intimacy. Sandalwood adds a smooth, milky richness, blending seamlessly with the amber-like, marine depth of ambergris. 

Oakmoss grounds the composition with its earthy, slightly damp aroma, evoking the texture of a forest floor after rain. The resinous, honeyed intensity of labdanum and the smoky sweetness of benzoin amplify the fragrance’s richness, while tonka bean contributes its characteristic blend of caramel, almond, and vanilla-like facets.

The animalic allure of civet lends a primal warmth, blending with the balsamic richness of opoponax (sweet myrrh) and the dark, earthy sweetness of patchouli. Vetiver adds a dry, smoky edge, reminiscent of freshly cut grasses, while cedar provides a woody elegance, its dry texture a perfect counterbalance to the sweetness. Together, these base notes create a tapestry of warmth and opulence, perfectly designed to linger luxuriously on furs, enhancing their tactile richness with a scent that is as decadent and enveloping as the finest winter wrap.

Harper's Bazaar, 1930:

"Elizabeth Arden's enchanting scent The Love of Elizabeth may be had in this charming bottle with an atomizer attachment."

 

Arts & Decoration, Volumes 41-42, 1934:

"L 'Amour Perfume for sheer inducement."

 Vassar Miscellany News, 1934:

"LUCKEY'S PERFUME BAR ATTRACTS Many each day to its distinctive display of Elizabeth Arden Perfumes. We have these choice preparations: Le Reve D'Elizabeth —an elusive odor of dream-like charm: perfect for furs. La Joie D'Elizabeth —Happiness captured in fragrance L'Elan D'Elizabeth —Rich, warm and irresistible. Tuberose —The true odor of the flower itself. These fragrances are reserved for those who are sensitive to perfection in perfumes. They are priced at $ 1.00 a dram. "

 

DC & I, 1935:

"ELIZABETH ARDEN brings out her charming" Perfume Trio "set, - one dram size bottles of three of her delightful perfumes, Blue Grass, L'Amour d'Elizabeth, and La Joie d'Elizabeth, all packed in a lovely white and silver box. These dram size bottles are priced at $ 1 each .. "

Bottles:

The cube-shaped crystal bottle, an enduring hallmark of Elizabeth Arden’s early packaging, is a study in elegant simplicity. Crafted from clear crystal, its geometric form exudes modern sophistication, perfectly aligning with the sleek Art Deco aesthetic of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The bottle's clean lines and precise symmetry reflect a sense of refinement that enhances the luxurious nature of the perfume it houses.

Adorning the front, black silk-screened enamel lettering provides a stark, graphic contrast to the transparency of the crystal. The lettering, delicately applied, not only identifies the scent but also contributes to the bottle’s minimalist appeal. Its ground glass cube-shaped stopper fits seamlessly into the bottle’s opening, completing the cohesive design. This precision fit ensured the precious perfume within was protected from evaporation while maintaining the understated elegance of the flacon.

Elizabeth Arden used this versatile cube flacon for several of her scents, including the famous Blue Grass. It was offered in three distinct sizes to suit different preferences: a diminutive 2-inch version, a medium 3-inch size, and the 5/16 oz bottle, somewhere in the middle which stands at 2.25 inches tall. Despite their small stature, these bottles were objects of luxury and desire, embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and aesthetic excellence.

A rare variation of this design elevates its collectible appeal—a luxurious version fitted with a chrome-plated atomizer mechanism with silken cord and bulb. These bottles were available in larger sizes and some were used as tester flacons in Elizabeth Arden salons, making them exceedingly scarce today. The juxtaposition of the polished chrome hardware against the clear crystal cube added a unique industrial edge to the otherwise delicate design. Because of their rarity and association with the glamorous world of Arden salons, these atomizer bottles are highly sought after by collectors, prized not only for their scarcity but also for their historical significance in the evolution of luxury perfume packaging.

The cube crystal bottle remains a timeless symbol of Elizabeth Arden’s innovative approach to design, merging functionality with an understated elegance that defined her brand and captivated the imaginations of her clientele.

An exceptionally rare and remarkable find in Elizabeth Arden's collection is the largest version of the iconic cube-shaped crystal bottle, designed to hold an impressive 32 ounces of parfum. This grand flacon, a true statement of opulence, retailed for $125 in 1930—a staggering sum equivalent to approximately $2,307.49 in 2024's currency. The bottle's sheer size, combined with its luxurious design, made it a symbol of exclusivity and affluence, catering to only the most discerning clientele. Its substantial capacity emphasized the rarity and value of the parfum it contained, elevating it to a status beyond mere fragrance. Today, surviving examples of this monumental bottle are not only testaments to Elizabeth Arden's commitment to luxury but also prized artifacts of early 20th-century perfume history, coveted by collectors for their rarity and historical significance.

The launch of Elizabeth Arden's largest 32-ounce parfum bottle in 1930 is particularly striking when viewed against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This period, marked by widespread economic hardship, unemployment, and financial instability, saw a sharp decline in consumer spending. For many, luxury items such as fine perfumes were an unattainable extravagance. Yet, the existence and pricing of this grand flacon, retailing at $125 (equivalent to over $2,300 today), underscore Elizabeth Arden's strategic appeal to a niche market untouched by financial strain—wealthy patrons who continued to seek and afford symbols of refinement and status even in challenging times.

The bottle, with its monumental size and price tag, served as a beacon of aspiration and exclusivity. It was more than a container for fragrance; it represented resilience and luxury in a world grappling with scarcity. For those who could afford it, such a purchase may have been a means to assert their personal success or escape the grim realities of the era, enveloped in the glamour and comfort Arden's brand promised. This bold marketing move during the Great Depression highlights the duality of luxury—both a reflection of societal challenges and a celebration of enduring elegance amidst adversity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Both the perfume and its exquisite crystal cube bottles were crafted in France, a reflection of Elizabeth Arden's dedication to sourcing the finest materials and production for her luxury brand. The French origin of the fragrance underscored its prestige, with every aspect—from the quality of the ingredients to the meticulous craftsmanship of the bottles—carefully curated to exude sophistication. However, this reliance on French production proved to be a vulnerability with the onset of World War II.

By 1940, the escalating conflict and the resulting disruptions to trade made it increasingly difficult to import the essential ingredients and bottles from France. As wartime shortages and logistical challenges mounted, the Arden company was forced to discontinue production of this remarkable perfume. While leftover stock continued to appear in advertisements as late as 1944, the remaining bottles were sold at drastically reduced prices, a stark contrast to their original luxury positioning. This clearance marked the end of an era for this particular fragrance, which would never be produced again, even after the war's conclusion.

Today, the perfume's brief production period, coupled with its discontinuation during such a tumultuous time, has rendered it one of Elizabeth Arden’s most elusive and sought-after fragrances. The rarity of surviving bottles makes them highly desirable among collectors, not just for their historical significance but also as poignant artifacts of a world forever changed by the impact of war.