Elizabeth Arden Perfumes: Violet Essence by Elizabeth Arden c1920

Wood Violet Essence by Elizabeth Arden, launched in 1920, evokes a sense of nature and elegance. The name "Wood Violet Essence" combines two key elements: "wood" and "violet." The word violet refers to the small, fragrant flower known for its delicate purple petals, while wood invokes imagery of forests and the earthy, green surroundings where violets grow. In French, violette denotes the flower, and the word essence indicates an extract, particularly a fragrance distilled from a flower or plant. The name calls to mind the fresh, dewy scent of violets found in shaded woodlands.

For women of the 1920s, a fragrance like Wood Violet Essence would have been both a symbol of sophistication and a connection to the natural world. The roaring twenties was a period of rapid change and liberation, and the idea of a fragrance based on a delicate flower found in the woods could evoke feelings of both innocence and quiet strength. The scent of violets was associated with romanticism and was often seen as a symbol of modesty and purity, making it an appealing choice for a post-World War I era that was seeking renewal. The fragrance would likely have appealed to the sensibilities of women who were looking to assert their independence while still embracing femininity.

When interpreted in scent, Wood Violet Essence would be a sweet, floral fragrance, with a softness and elegance that captures the essence of violets, yet with a slightly earthy, woodsy undertone to ground the floral sweetness. Women at the time may have connected the fragrance to a sense of renewal and nature’s simplicity, making it an ideal choice for a period marked by a desire for fresh starts and new expressions of individuality.

In the context of the 1920s fragrance market, Wood Violet Essence was part of a growing trend of floral perfumes that embraced natural ingredients while also beginning to incorporate the newly discovered synthetics that were revolutionizing the perfume industry. Violet-based perfumes had been popular for much of the 19th century, often created using mixtures of flowers, resins, and animalics. As the 20th century advanced, synthetics like methyl ionone, heliotropin, and vanillin allowed for more stable and consistent violet notes, enhancing their bouquet while softening the stronger, sometimes harsh aspects of the natural violet scent. Wood Violet Essence thus stood as a continuation of the violet tradition, blending the romantic floral heritage with the modern sensibilities of the time.

As a sweet floral fragrance, Wood Violet Essence followed in the footsteps of other floral perfumes of the era, but with the unique twist of emphasizing the simplicity of violets, complemented by soft, woody nuances. It captured the spirit of an era that prized both the beauty of nature and the modern sophistication of newly developed scent technologies.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Wood Violet Essence is classified as a sweet floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: verbena, methyl heptin carbonate, cassie, geranium, violet, bergamot, methyl ionone
Middle notes: almond, farnesol, jasmine, orris root, rose, heliotropin, tuberose
Base notes: benzyl acetate, vanillin, tolu balsam, musk, ambrette, santalol, storax, benzoin, coumarin

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter the top notes of Wood Violet Essence, the initial impression is fresh and invigorating. The verbena bursts forth with its tangy, lemony brightness, filling the air with an uplifting citrusy scent that seems to breathe life into the surroundings. Alongside it, methyl heptin carbonate brings a clean, green freshness, its slightly sweet, grassy note adding depth to the lightness of verbena.

Cassie, with its sweet, almost powdery warmth, gently balances this freshness, contributing a soft floral note that hints at the scent of mimosa, both delicate and inviting. The unmistakable geranium then adds a rosy, leafy edge, a subtle sharpness that introduces a refined floral note before it smoothly blends with the round, powdery sweetness of violet. The violet's green, dewy freshness evokes the image of a flower just kissed by morning dew, delicate and cool.

The zest of bergamot then joins in, with its bright, tangy citrus twist, adding an almost sparkling quality that dances alongside the soft floral notes, all while methyl ionone envelops the senses with a smooth, powdery violet scent, creating an air of sophistication and elegance.

As the fragrance unfolds into its heart, the almond note is immediately warm and nutty, its creamy, sweet essence wrapping around you like a cozy blanket, offering a sense of comfort. This is deepened by the presence of farnesol, which imparts a soft, slightly waxy sweetness reminiscent of linden blossom, adding a honeyed, floral undertone.

The floral bouquet expands further with the heady, intoxicating scent of jasmine, whose rich, honeyed florals mingle with the powdery, elegant tones of orris root, creating a refined and velvety sensation on the skin. The full-bodied scent of rose enters, its familiar sweetness grounded by green, fresh undertones, while the soft, sweet, and slightly vanillic note of heliotropin weaves through, like a warm breeze carrying whispers of summer. The lush, opulent scent of tuberose then adds an exotic touch, its creamy, almost heady sweetness enhancing the floral heart, while infusing it with an almost sensual depth.

As the fragrance dries down, the base notes begin to emerge, grounding the earlier lightness in a richer, more resonant foundation. The benzyl acetate gives a delicate sweetness, soft and almost honeyed, enhancing the floral and fruit facets of the fragrance without overwhelming them. The vanillin brings a creamy, vanilla-like warmth, smooth and comforting, offering a cozy, sweet embrace as the fragrance settles into its full bloom.

Tolu balsam then adds a resinous, slightly sweet note that feels like the deep richness of a forest, its warm, balsamic quality adding a soothing depth to the composition. The soft, animalic warmth of musk adds a layer of sensuality, while ambrette contributes a soft, musky, slightly sweet floral note that evokes a sense of intimacy and warmth.

The woodiness of santalol combines beautifully with the resinous storax and benzoin, both rich and balsamic, enveloping the composition in a smooth, slightly smoky sweetness that deepens the floral heart. Finally, coumarin adds a delicate touch of sweetness, reminiscent of freshly mown hay, softening the richer notes and rounding out the fragrance with its slightly nutty, hay-like warmth.

Together, these notes create a delicate and sophisticated floral fragrance that blooms with both freshness and depth, evoking the elegance of violets in the cool shade of a wood, while also weaving in the comforting warmth of almond, musk, and resins. It is a fragrance that invites both the gentle nature of flowers and the grounded sensuality of woods, creating a sweet, timeless harmony.

Bottles:

In 1940, Wood Violet Essence was presented in an elegant, oval-shaped acetate box designed to evoke the charm of a picture frame, its delicate contours creating a sense of nostalgia and refined beauty. The box was not just a mere container, but a miniature work of art, carefully crafted to highlight the fragility and elegance of the perfume within. Upon opening the box, one would find the exquisite bottle of Wood Violet Essence, a tiny masterpiece in itself, standing at just 2 inches tall. The bottle, made from blown glass, captured the essence of delicate artistry, its shape both graceful and minimalistic, allowing the fragrance inside to take center stage. This presentation was known as the "Oval Picture Frame" according to advertisements of the period.

The glass bottle was adorned with painted sea shells, a decorative motif that echoed the natural world. These tiny, intricate shells, beloved by perfumers of the era, lent the bottle a sense of whimsy and refinement. The shells evoked the seaside, suggesting the serene, peaceful quality of nature, while also adding a touch of elegance to the bottle’s design. Some bottles were further embellished with colored velvet pieces arranged to simulate the soft, velvety petals of violet blossoms, their rich hues creating a delicate contrast against the glass. To complete the motif, the bottle featured molded composition leaves that evoked the soft green foliage of violets, grounding the fragrance’s floral theme in nature’s beauty.

The delicate stopper of the bottle, with its long glass dauber, completed the design, adding both function and refinement. The dauber’s slender, graceful form ensured the careful dispensing of the fragrance, while also serving as a visual complement to the intricate details of the bottle itself. The stopper’s fine craftsmanship mirrored the attention to detail that was so characteristic of the period, making the entire presentation feel like a treasured heirloom.

An advertisement from the time described the perfume as “sea shell violets,” a term that not only captured the unique combination of shells and violets in the bottle’s decoration but also conjured an image of a delicate, refined floral scent carried by the wind, just as the sea carries its treasures to shore. This creative fusion of elements reflected the era’s love for natural beauty, the soft scent of violets, and the allure of the sea. Together, the packaging and bottle of Wood Violet Essence were a testament to the luxury and artistry of the time, combining elegance with fragility to create a perfume experience that was as much about the visual as the olfactory.