Le Reve d'Elizabeth by Elizabeth Arden c1927

Launched in 1927 by Elizabeth Arden, Le Rêve d’Elizabeth was one of four signature scents introduced that year alongside La Joie d’Elizabeth, Le Jardin d’Elizabeth, L’Amour d’Elizabeth, and L’Étoile d’Elizabeth. These perfumes were exclusively available in the luxurious Elizabeth Arden salons worldwide. The collection was thoughtfully marketed as being "charmingly dedicated to human relationships and emotions instead of the usual flowers," with fragrances described as both "unusual and beautiful" in their conception. Encased in square-cut crystal bottles of elegant simplicity, these scents were as much a celebration of refined aesthetics as they were of individuality and depth.

The name Le Rêve d’Elizabeth translates from French to “Elizabeth’s Dream” (pronounced leh REHV duh ee-lee-zah-BEHT). The choice of French, the language of sophistication and perfumery, added a touch of international allure to the product, while the word “dream” evoked images of imagination, aspiration, and an almost ethereal elegance. For women of the time, a perfume with this name might have embodied an idealized sense of luxury, ambition, and escape—qualities that resonated deeply in an era when societal roles for women were expanding, and self-expression was increasingly celebrated.

As a heavy, spicy oriental fragrance, Le Rêve d’Elizabeth was intended to envelop the wearer in warmth and opulence. Its description as a “winter scent, good for furs” conjures images of glamorous evenings, roaring fires, and the tactile luxury of rich fabrics like velvet and fur. Women might have related to this perfume as a symbol of sophistication and status, complementing the elegance of evening gowns and the Art Deco aesthetic that defined the late 1920s.

The late 1920s were marked by a flourishing perfume industry, with the rise of complex, oriental-inspired scents such as Guerlain’s Shalimar (1925) and Coty’s Emeraude (1921). These fragrances reflected the public’s fascination with exoticism, sensuality, and richness, trends spurred by postwar escapism and the artistic influence of movements like Art Deco. While Le Rêve d’Elizabeth aligned with these themes, its conceptual focus on emotions and human relationships, rather than flowers or geographical inspirations, made it stand out. The scent’s promise to “weave a tissue of dreams” suggested an experience beyond the ordinary, making it uniquely poetic and alluring.

In interpreting the name Le Rêve d’Elizabeth as a scent, one can imagine an intricate composition of warm spices, resinous notes, and an underlying softness of ambergris and vanilla. It would project a sense of mystery and introspection, evoking not just the wearer’s dreams but also the aspirations and fantasies of those around her. This combination of emotional resonance and olfactory luxury would have solidified Le Rêve d’Elizabeth as both a personal treasure and a cultural statement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a heavy, spicy oriental fragrance for women. It was described as a warm, winter scent. It was suggested to be worn with furs and the cocktail of choice would be the Bacardi, a salmon pink drink made from light white rum, lime juice, grenadine, sugar syrup and garnished with a Luxardo Maraschino cherry.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, carnation, petitgrain, pepper
• Middle notes: tuberose, orris, narcissus, rose, jasmine, gardenia, orange blossom, clove, cinnamon, ylang ylang, nutmeg
• Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, oakmoss, tonka bean, benzoin, cistus labdanum, cedar, patchouli, castoreum, styrax

Ladies Home Journal, 1927:

"Mon Amie Elizabeth- the perfect gift of a friend to a friend. L’Amour d’Elizabeth - the glory of love in fragrance. Le Reve d’Elizabeth - the perfume of dreams. La Joie d’Elizabeth - the joyous ardor of love."

Scent Profile:

As the fragrance opens, the first impression is dazzling. The aldehydes shimmer like the crisp sparkle of sunlight on frost, their effervescence lending a bright, airy quality that instantly captivates. Bergamot follows, with its tart citrus zing softened by an almost floral undertone, lifting the senses like a fresh breeze. Beneath this freshness lies the spicy warmth of carnation, its clove-like facets lending a bold, peppery depth. Petitgrain adds a green, slightly woody sharpness, evocative of crushed citrus leaves. A whisper of pepper lingers, grounding the brightness with a touch of dry, piquant heat.

As the heart of the fragrance unfolds, a lush, sensual bouquet blooms. Tuberose dominates with its creamy, intoxicating sweetness, both heady and seductive. Orris emerges like a powdery veil, its violet-like softness adding elegance and a hint of melancholy. Narcissus joins with a slightly animalic, green-floral edge, adding intrigue and depth. The timeless romance of rose and the luminous sweetness of jasmine intermingle, their classic elegance softened by the buttery richness of gardenia. Orange blossom adds a sunny, honeyed brightness that balances the heart's complexity.

The spices rise as the floral notes deepen. Clove and cinnamon exude a warming, almost edible quality, their spicy sweetness wrapped in the heady exoticism of ylang-ylang, which lends a creamy, banana-like richness with a touch of earthy depth. Nutmeg adds a soft, dry spice that tempers the florals and spices, weaving them together in harmony.

In the base, a sumptuous foundation emerges. Vanilla is velvety and gourmand, its sweetness rich but never cloying. Sandalwood’s creamy, milky texture adds warmth, while musk wraps everything in a soft, animalic embrace. Ambergris, with its oceanic, slightly salty richness, brings depth and sophistication. Earthy oakmoss lends a green, mossy texture, grounding the scent like a forest floor.

Tonka bean introduces a nutty, slightly caramelized warmth, enriched by benzoin’s balsamic sweetness. Cistus labdanum adds a leathery, resinous richness, blending seamlessly with cedarwood’s dry, woody tones. Patchouli’s earthy, slightly sweet facets add a smoky depth, while castoreum’s animalic leatheriness enhances the sensuality. Finally, styrax offers a smoky, resinous undertone, adding a shadowy, mysterious dimension to the lingering dry-down.

Each ingredient contributes to the tapestry of Le Rêve d’Elizabeth, a fragrance that feels like the olfactory equivalent of an opulent fur coat. Its warmth and richness envelop the wearer, evoking a world of glamour, sophistication, and timeless beauty, perfectly suited for the elegance of a winter evening.

 

Home Journal, 1929:

"La Joie d'Elizabeth / Le Reve d'Elizabeth / Mon Amie Elizabeth / L'Amour d'Elizabeth These four perfumes — creations of Elizabeth Arden — are being introduced in Elizabeth Arden Salons throughout the world."

The Amarillo Globe Times, 1929:

"Le Reve d'Elizabeth -  a perfume of quiet breeding and distinction - which may be used with particular success on furs. "

 

 Vassar Miscellany News, 1934:

"LUCKEY'S PERFUME BAR ATTRACTS Many each day to its distinctive display of Elizabeth Arden Perfumes. We have these choice preparations: Le Reve D'Elizabeth —an elusive odor of dream-like charm: perfect for furs. La Joie D'Elizabeth —Happiness captured in fragrance L'Elan D'Elizabeth —Rich, warm and irresistible. Tuberose —The true odor of the flower itself. These fragrances are reserved for those who are sensitive to perfection in perfumes. They are priced at $1.00 a dram."

 

Bottles:

The cube-shaped crystal bottle, an enduring hallmark of Elizabeth Arden’s early packaging, is a study in elegant simplicity. Crafted from clear crystal, its geometric form exudes modern sophistication, perfectly aligning with the sleek Art Deco aesthetic of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The bottle's clean lines and precise symmetry reflect a sense of refinement that enhances the luxurious nature of the perfume it houses.

Adorning the front, black silk-screened enamel lettering provides a stark, graphic contrast to the transparency of the crystal. The lettering, delicately applied, not only identifies the scent but also contributes to the bottle’s minimalist appeal. Its ground glass cube-shaped stopper fits seamlessly into the bottle’s opening, completing the cohesive design. This precision fit ensured the precious perfume within was protected from evaporation while maintaining the understated elegance of the flacon.

Elizabeth Arden used this versatile cube flacon for several of her scents, including the famous Blue Grass. It was offered in three distinct sizes to suit different preferences: a diminutive 2-inch version, a medium 3-inch size, and the 5/16 oz bottle, somewhere in the middle which stands at 2.25 inches tall. Despite their small stature, these bottles were objects of luxury and desire, embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and aesthetic excellence.

A rare variation of this design elevates its collectible appeal—a luxurious version fitted with a chrome-plated atomizer mechanism with silken cord and bulb. These bottles were available in larger sizes and some were used as tester flacons in Elizabeth Arden salons, making them exceedingly scarce today. The juxtaposition of the polished chrome hardware against the clear crystal cube added a unique industrial edge to the otherwise delicate design. Because of their rarity and association with the glamorous world of Arden salons, these atomizer bottles are highly sought after by collectors, prized not only for their scarcity but also for their historical significance in the evolution of luxury perfume packaging.

The cube crystal bottle remains a timeless symbol of Elizabeth Arden’s innovative approach to design, merging functionality with an understated elegance that defined her brand and captivated the imaginations of her clientele.

Aristocrat Auction Services, LLC

 An exceptionally rare and remarkable find in Elizabeth Arden's collection is the largest version of the iconic cube-shaped crystal bottle, designed to hold an impressive 32 ounces of parfum. This grand flacon, a true statement of opulence, retailed for $125 in 1930—a staggering sum equivalent to approximately $2,307.49 in 2024's currency. The bottle's sheer size, combined with its luxurious design, made it a symbol of exclusivity and affluence, catering to only the most discerning clientele. Its substantial capacity emphasized the rarity and value of the parfum it contained, elevating it to a status beyond mere fragrance. Today, surviving examples of this monumental bottle are not only testaments to Elizabeth Arden's commitment to luxury but also prized artifacts of early 20th-century perfume history, coveted by collectors for their rarity and historical significance.

The launch of Elizabeth Arden's largest 32-ounce parfum bottle in 1930 is particularly striking when viewed against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This period, marked by widespread economic hardship, unemployment, and financial instability, saw a sharp decline in consumer spending. For many, luxury items such as fine perfumes were an unattainable extravagance. Yet, the existence and pricing of this grand flacon, retailing at $125 (equivalent to over $2,300 today), underscore Elizabeth Arden's strategic appeal to a niche market untouched by financial strain—wealthy patrons who continued to seek and afford symbols of refinement and status even in challenging times.

The bottle, with its monumental size and price tag, served as a beacon of aspiration and exclusivity. It was more than a container for fragrance; it represented resilience and luxury in a world grappling with scarcity. For those who could afford it, such a purchase may have been a means to assert their personal success or escape the grim realities of the era, enveloped in the glamour and comfort Arden's brand promised. This bold marketing move during the Great Depression highlights the duality of luxury—both a reflection of societal challenges and a celebration of enduring elegance amidst adversity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Both the perfume and its exquisite crystal cube bottles were crafted in France, a reflection of Elizabeth Arden's dedication to sourcing the finest materials and production for her luxury brand. The French origin of the fragrance underscored its prestige, with every aspect—from the quality of the ingredients to the meticulous craftsmanship of the bottles—carefully curated to exude sophistication. However, this reliance on French production proved to be a vulnerability with the onset of World War II.

By 1940, the escalating conflict and the resulting disruptions to trade made it increasingly difficult to import the essential ingredients and bottles from France. As wartime shortages and logistical challenges mounted, the Arden company was forced to discontinue production of this remarkable perfume. While leftover stock continued to appear in advertisements as late as 1944, the remaining bottles were sold at drastically reduced prices, a stark contrast to their original luxury positioning. This clearance marked the end of an era for this particular fragrance, which would never be produced again, even after the war's conclusion.

Today, the perfume's brief production period, coupled with its discontinuation during such a tumultuous time, has rendered it one of Elizabeth Arden’s most elusive and sought-after fragrances. The rarity of surviving bottles makes them highly desirable among collectors, not just for their historical significance but also as poignant artifacts of a world forever changed by the impact of war.