The perfume "It's You" by Elizabeth Arden was launched in 1938, a time period marked by a complex blend of hope, glamour, and apprehension. The world was still recovering from the Great Depression, and the looming threat of World War II was on the horizon. Despite these challenges, the late 1930s also saw a resurgence of Hollywood glamour and a yearning for elegance and escapism. In the United States, by 1939, the public was enamored with the silver screen, drawing inspiration from the style and sophistication of movie stars. This was an era where personal expression through fashion and fragrance was becoming increasingly significant, as individuals sought to find joy and beauty amidst uncertain times.
Elizabeth Arden's choice of the name "It's You" for this perfume speaks volumes about its intended message and appeal. The name suggests a personal and intimate connection, a declaration of individuality and recognition. "It's You" implies that the wearer is unique, special, and seen. This name would have resonated deeply in a time when people were searching for validation and a sense of identity. The phrase "It's You" is both a compliment and an affirmation, making it an ideal name for a perfume intended to make the wearer feel distinguished and cherished.
A perfume named "It's You" would have been particularly appealing to women who were confident, self-assured, and keen to make a statement about their identity. These women would have responded to the perfume with a sense of empowerment, embracing its message of personal significance. The scent, crafted by the renowned perfumer Edmond Roudnitska originally for his wife, would carry a note of intimacy and devotion, further enhancing its allure. Women who valued the blend of sophistication and personal connection would find "It's You" a perfect match for their style and persona.
The word "It's You" evokes images of a knowing smile, a glance across a crowded room, and the warm glow of recognition and love. It conjures feelings of being seen and appreciated for one's true self. The phrase has a romantic and personal undertone, suggesting that the wearer is the one who stands out, the one who is loved and admired. In the context of a perfume, it suggests a fragrance that is not just a scent, but a signature, an extension of the wearer’s identity. It’s a statement of personal elegance and an embodiment of the unique charm and allure that the perfume promises to its users.
Product Line:
The success of "It's You" by Elizabeth Arden was a testament to the powerful allure of its name and fragrance, leading to the expansion of the product line by 1939. This expansion allowed women to fully embrace the "It's You" identity, with a range of products designed to complement and enhance their personal style.
It's You Nail Polish: This product brought a touch of sophistication to fingertips, offering shades that likely mirrored the elegance and charm of the "It's You" fragrance. Nail polish in the late 1930s was a statement of glamour, and having a shade from the "It's You" line would have been a mark of fashion-forward thinking. The polish was designed to provide a flawless finish, making hands an extension of the wearer’s personality and style.
It's You Lipstick: The "It's You" lipstick was an essential addition to the ensemble, encapsulating the bold and confident spirit of the era. Lipstick shades would have ranged from classic reds to subtle nudes, providing options for every occasion. The lipstick not only enhanced the lips but also carried the same message of individuality and recognition as the perfume. Wearing "It's You" lipstick was an assertion of one’s unique beauty and poise.
It's You Eyeshadow: The eyeshadow palette offered by Elizabeth Arden allowed women to create captivating eye looks, from sultry smoky eyes to delicate, natural shades. These eyeshadows would have been formulated to provide long-lasting color and a smooth application, enhancing the eyes with a touch of glamour. The eyeshadow was an invitation for women to experiment and express themselves through their makeup.
It's You Cream Rouge and It's You Dry Rouge: These blush products were designed to give cheeks a healthy, radiant glow. The cream rouge provided a dewy, fresh finish, perfect for a youthful look, while the dry rouge offered a more matte effect, suitable for a sophisticated appearance. Both products were essential for completing the face makeup, adding a touch of color and vitality to the complexion.
It's You Dusting Powder: The dusting powder was a luxurious addition to the "It's You" line, providing a soft, fragrant layer of powder that left the skin feeling smooth and pampered. This product was likely infused with the same scent as the perfume, allowing the wearer to envelop themselves in the fragrance from head to toe. The dusting powder was an elegant finishing touch, perfect for special occasions or everyday use.
It's You Flower Mist: This mist was a light and refreshing way to experience the "It's You" scent. Ideal for a quick spritz throughout the day, the flower mist provided a delicate fragrance that could be easily reapplied. It was perfect for those moments when a full application of perfume was not necessary but a touch of scent was desired.
It's You Parfum: The parfum was the most concentrated form of the "It's You" fragrance, offering an intense and long-lasting scent. This product was for those who wanted to make a bold statement with their fragrance, enveloping themselves in the rich and luxurious aroma. The parfum would have been the crown jewel of the "It's You" line, representing the pinnacle of elegance and sophistication.
Overall, the "It's You" product line by Elizabeth Arden allowed women to create a cohesive and polished look, with each product reinforcing the central theme of individuality and recognition. The expansion of the line not only cemented the popularity of the "It's You" brand but also provided women with the tools to fully express their personal style and charm.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral oriental fragrance for women. It has an unusual bright citrusy cucumber top note from the herb borage and a warm milky base note punctuated by woodsy notes.
- Top notes: aldehydes, grapefruit, mandarin, cucumber, lemon, borage
- Middle notes: orchid, linden blossom, lilac, jasmine, gardenia, lily of the valley
- Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka, benzoin, musk, oakmoss
The American Hebrew, 1049:
"PERFUME TRIBUTES OF GREAT ELEGANCE DAY BY ELIZABETH ARDEN Four perfumes by Elizabeth Arden ...that express the ultimate of beauty in fragrance and design. "It's You,", romantic as a young man's fancy in Spring.."
Scent Profile:
The first encounter with It’s You by Elizabeth Arden greets you with an effervescent sparkle of aldehydes, reminiscent of freshly laundered linens crisp in the sunlight. Grapefruit and mandarin add a juicy, tart liveliness that dances on the edge of sharpness, while lemon cuts through with zesty brightness. Unexpectedly, cucumber emerges, cool and dewy, offering a soothing aquatic freshness. Borage, with its faintly herbal, cucumber-like nuance, lends a verdant, slightly peppery green undertone that ties the opening together in an unusual yet compelling harmony.
As the heart unfolds, a garden blooms in full glory. The airy sweetness of linden blossom mingles with the soft powderiness of lilac, evoking a stroll under a sun-dappled canopy of spring trees. Jasmine's indolic richness weaves through, lending a creamy sensuality, while gardenia’s lush, waxy floral depth anchors the bouquet. Lily of the valley offers a light, clean floral brightness, counterbalanced by orchid's velvety, exotic allure, wrapping the heart notes in a smooth, mysterious elegance.
The base notes provide a warm and deeply grounding finish. Vanilla’s sweet creaminess is enriched by the resinous warmth of benzoin and tonka bean, creating a delectable, almost gourmand-like softness. Ambergris lends a salty, marine complexity that elevates the blend, while sandalwood and patchouli bring earthy, woodsy richness. Oakmoss adds a subtle touch of damp, mossy green that deepens the composition. Finally, musk entwines the entire scent with its soft, skin-like warmth, leaving behind a lingering trace that feels intimate and comforting, yet intriguingly sophisticated.
Bottles:
The deluxe flacon for "It's You" parfum by Elizabeth Arden was an exquisite piece of craftsmanship, available in 12 known versions. All these flacons were crafted in the renowned Baccarat design model #781, which itself was a masterpiece of glass art. The design was a direct replica of an antique Victorian bud vase, a design choice that added a layer of historical charm and sophistication to the product. The body of the bottle was elegantly held by an applied molded hand, symbolizing grace and delicacy. The stopper was shaped like a molded rose, a timeless symbol of beauty and romance. The entire assembly was housed under a glass bell jar, adding a sense of reverence and protection to the precious perfume within. This intricate design was inspired by the movie "Gone With The Wind," capturing the elegance and grandeur of the film.
These hand vase bottles were not just functional items but also collectible pieces of art, retailing for $37.50 in 1941. Their design reflected a nostalgic elegance, making them highly desirable among perfume enthusiasts and collectors alike. The attention to detail in replicating the Victorian bud vase and the use of Baccarat crystal made these bottles a luxurious statement piece, enhancing the overall allure of the "It's You" parfum.
In addition to the deluxe flacon, "It's You" was also available in square bottles, which were more practical for everyday use. Despite their simplicity compared to the hand vase bottles, these square bottles retained a touch of elegance and charm. The label on the square bottles prominently featured the image of the hand vase bottle, linking the two designs and reinforcing the luxury and sophistication of the "It's You" brand. These square bottles came in three sizes, catering to different preferences and needs of the consumers. In 1941, the pricing for these square bottles was $14.75, $24.75, and $25.75, respectively. This range provided options for various budgets while maintaining the brand's premium image.
The choice to offer the perfume in both the deluxe flacon and the square bottles allowed Elizabeth Arden to cater to both collectors and everyday users. The deluxe flacon was a perfect gift or a cherished personal item, while the square bottles provided a more accessible option for daily use. This strategic approach not only broadened the market reach but also solidified the "It's You" line as a symbol of luxury and elegance.
House & Garden, 1940:
"Elizabeth Arden: eye catching Harmony Make-up Box; and, under the glass bell, the nostalgic new perfume “It's You ."
Esquire, 1942:
"It's You Sequence: Perfume — gilt or transparent hand bottle, $37.50 — square bottles, $14.75, $24.75 and $25.75 — pinch bottle with flower top $6.50—one dram size $2.25— flower mist $1.50—Dusting powder in oval boxes $1.50"
The Hand Vases Bottles:
If you have any bottles that looks like the ones described below, but aren't shown in the pics below, I would love to add them to the list.
Version 1 is all white opaline glass with polka dots on the non frosted vase and cuff, there is gilt trim on the upper edge of the cuff and on the neck of the bottle, the ring is not enameled, and comes with a gilded stopper.
Version 2 is all white opaline glass with a gilded vase, and gilt trim on the upper part of the cuff, the wavy trim on the ruffle's edge on the cuff, a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone", gilded stopper.
Version 3 is all clear satin glass with a non satinized vase, it has a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone" and a frosted stopper. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction.
Version 4 is just like version 3 except that it has a gilt band along the top of the vase, blue enamel on the upper trim of the cuff, and on the ruffle’s edge and a blue glass stopper, a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone" . This one came in a domed cover. Arts & Fragrances Perfume Presentations Perfume Catalog Photo by Dallas Auction.
Version 5 looks like Version 4, but doesn't have the gilded band on the vase and the ring isn't gilded, I think it has a red enameled “ring”.
Version 6 looks like version 3 but the upper part (the “lid” of the vase and neck are enameled in blue with white polka dots at the bottom, a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone" , and the cuff and stopper is enameled in white. The cuff’s ruffles have tiny white enameled polka dots on the edges. This was a Christmas version for 1940.
Version 7 is just like version 4 except there is no golden band on the vase and the hand is stained pink to simulate flesh.
Version 8 looks just like version 3, except the ring is not enameled at all.
Version 9 looks just like Version 2, except the hand is gilded also, and the stopper is blue, blue trim on cuff.
Version 10 looks like Version 4 but it doesn't have any gilded decoration.
Version 11 looks like Version 2, but has a white enameled stopper.
Version 12. This bottle looks like Version 2, but there is no enameling on the vases "lid" but there is traces of gilding on the neck in the picture, scroll down to see. There is no gilding on the cuffs edges.
Other Bottles:
It's You was presented in other bottles over the years. One in particular is a tiny, blown glass pinched flacon.
A scarce bottle used for It's You is clear glass, it appears to be blown as there are no seams present, and fitted with a clear ground glass stopper. It measures 2.5" tall x 2" diameter.
A cute little bottle was used to house the It's You parfum, triangular shaped with a pointed glass stopper, it was also used for other Arden perfumes. The bottle holds 1/8 oz pf parfum and measures just 1 7/8" tall.
Another bottle was used for various Arden perfumes. Cylindrical in shape, it holds 1.25-dram and measures 2.75" tall. The metallic screw cap is fitted with a prong set glass gem.
The Playbill, 1949:
"IT'S YOU, ON DIT, NIGHT AND DAY, WHITE ORCHID OR BLUE GRASS. With simulated sapphire, emerald or ruby jewel."
The It's You Eau de Toilette was housed in the "grenade" bottle, it held nearly 8 oz of the fragrance. The bottle was used for other Arden scents.
The It’s You Flower Mist bottle stands 5” tall and holds 4 oz. This is the "pinch" bottle.
Miami News, 1942:
"It's You Flower Mist: An individual blend of floral fragrances , light and delicate for use for every summer need. In four oz convenient fingerprint bottle. $1.75."
The box below is for the It`s You Bath Powder. The cardboard box measures 4.25" in diameter and is 1.75" tall. Notice the hand vase motif is repeated on the front of the box and the carton.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1938, It’s You by Elizabeth Arden emerged as a reflection of the elegance and innovation of its time. With its aldehydic floral oriental composition, it encapsulated the sophisticated charm of the late 1930s, offering women a fragrance that felt both modern and timeless. Its bright, citrusy opening and unique cucumber-infused freshness set it apart from the more traditional floral fragrances of the era, hinting at the optimism and progressive spirit of pre-war America.
By the time It’s You had woven itself into the lives of its wearers, the perfume world was evolving rapidly, and tastes began to shift toward newer olfactory directions. Despite its distinctiveness, It’s You seems to have quietly faded from the market by 1960, leaving behind an aura of nostalgia and a place in the memories of those who cherished its nuanced, sophisticated scent. Its discontinuation marked the end of an era for a fragrance that had once bridged the gap between the romanticism of the 1930s and the boldness of mid-century modernity. Today, it remains a captivating piece of perfume history, remembered as much for its unique composition as for its role in shaping the olfactory trends of its time.
I'm researching a history piece I'm writing, and am interested in finding a photo(s) or drawings of the square bottle you mention above, with the prices of $14.75, $24.75 and $25.75 in 1941. I'm most interested in the largest size, and what the bottle capacity/volume was for that one. The hand holding the vase is so iconic and ubiquitous, it seems all other bottle options have disappeared without a trace. Any ideas? Thanks much!
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