Moon Moss by Elizabeth Arden c1932

Launched during the holiday season of 1932 amidst the Great Depression, Moon Moss by Elizabeth Arden offered a beacon of enchantment and sophistication. The name itself, "Moon Moss," conjures an ethereal, dreamlike quality, evoking images of silver moonlight glinting off verdant landscapes draped in moss. Rooted in English, the term connects nature’s lush greenery with the celestial allure of the moon, a pairing that suggests a timeless, otherworldly elegance. For women navigating the challenges of the 1930s, Moon Moss would have been more than just a fragrance—it was an escape, a moment of fantasy and refinement in an otherwise austere reality.

The words "Moon Moss" invite associations of shimmering luminescence and soft, tactile verdancy. It evokes a woodland scene kissed by moonlight—mystical, serene, and deeply romantic. Women of the time, longing for moments of beauty and glamour, would have been drawn to the fragrance as an expression of their own enigmatic charm. The name also hints at mystery and seduction, perfectly aligned with the description of the scent as “phantom light,” a shimmering, tantalizing presence designed for the most provocative woman.

In olfactory terms, Moon Moss translates to a harmonious balance of freshness and sophistication. As a fresh chypre, its verdant top notes of bergamot and magnolia whisper of nature’s elegance, while its middle floral bouquet of orange blossom, jasmine, and gardenia captures femininity in bloom. The base of oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, amber, and labdanum offers a grounding warmth, echoing the soft yet steadfast embrace of moss underfoot. Together, these elements create a scent that feels simultaneously grounded and celestial—lush and mysterious, like moonlight illuminating a forest glade.

Pin Fleuri by Babani c1937

In 1937, the time period when "Pin Fleuri" by Babani was launched, was characterized by a blend of elegance and artistic flair in fashion and perfumery. This era, nestled between the Art Deco extravagance of the 1920s and the onset of World War II in the late 1930s, saw a continuation of refined tastes and a celebration of feminine beauty through both visual and olfactory expressions.

The name "Pin Fleuri" translates to "Flowered Pine" in English, deriving from French. The name derives from an elegant floral pattern of scattered blossoms over a white or light colored colored background. Babani likely chose this name to evoke a sense of natural beauty and elegance. In the context of perfumery, "Pin Fleuri" suggests a fragrance that captures the essence of scattered blossoms over a white or light-colored background, mirroring the delicate yet vibrant nature of floral patterns popular in fashion during that time.

"Pin Fleuri" would be a fitting name for a perfume because it immediately conveys imagery of a lush, floral landscape. It suggests a perfume that is fresh, floral, and possibly with green notes reminiscent of pine or other foliage. The name itself would appeal to women who appreciated sophisticated, floral fragrances that complemented their attire and lifestyle.

Red Door by Elizabeth Arden c1989

Red Door by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1989. Created by Carlos Benaim. The name of the fragrance is a tribute to Arden's famous Red Door Salon and in honor of the Elizabeth Arden woman.

Afghani by Babani c1919

In 1919, the launch of "Afghani" by Babani occurred during a tumultuous period in Afghanistan's history. Afghanistan, at the time, was striving for independence and navigating its geopolitical position amidst the aftermath of World War I. The name "Afghani" in English refers to something or someone from Afghanistan. The term "Afghani" itself is of Persian origin, reflecting its linguistic roots in the region.

Babani likely chose the name "Afghani" for its exotic connotations and associations with the Far East. During the early 20th century, Western perceptions of Afghanistan and the broader region were often steeped in romanticized Orientalist imagery, characterized by mystique, adventure, and the allure of distant lands. Naming a perfume "Afghani" would have immediately evoked images of rugged landscapes, spices, and the rich cultural heritage of the region.

The name "Afghani" would have been appealing for a perfume due to its potential to evoke a sense of exoticism and luxury. Perfumes during this era often drew inspiration from distant lands and their mystical allure, appealing to consumers' desire for adventure and escapism. The subtitle "Essence of the Far East" further reinforces this image, suggesting a blend of oriental spices and luxurious ingredients that were popular in Western perfumery of the time.

Those who related to a perfume called "Afghani" would likely be intrigued by its promise of transporting them to a far-off place, capturing their imagination with visions of spice markets, desert landscapes, and ancient traditions. They might respond to the perfume with a sense of curiosity and a desire to experience its evocative blend of scents.

Saigon by Babani - Parfum Chinois c1920

In the early 1920s, the launch of the perfume "Saigon" by Babani would have carried significant cultural and historical connotations, particularly in the context of Asia during that time period.

During the 1920s, China, Vietnam, Korea, and Japan were undergoing various social, political, and cultural changes. China was in the midst of the Republican Era after the fall of the Qing Dynasty, Vietnam was under French colonial rule, Korea was also under colonial occupation by Japan, and Japan itself was experiencing rapid modernization and industrialization.

The name "Saigon" originates from the Vietnamese language. It was the name of a major city in French Indochina (present-day Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam). "Saigon" itself comes from the Vietnamese words "Sài Gòn," which possibly derive from the Khmer words "Prey Nokor," meaning "forest city."

Babani likely chose the name "Saigon" to evoke a sense of exoticism and intrigue associated with French Indochina, which was seen as mysterious and alluring to Western audiences at the time. The name would have suggested a fragrance that embodied the essence of the Far East, blending French colonial fascination with the oriental mystique.

"Saigon" as a name for a perfume would have resonated with the European audience of the time who were fascinated by the Far East. It conjures images of tropical flowers, bustling markets, and the mingling of French elegance with Asian exoticism. The name suggests a fragrance that promises adventure, sophistication, and perhaps a hint of the unknown, appealing to those seeking to experience distant lands through scent.

Sousouki by Babani c1920

In 1920, the year Sousouki by Babani was launched, it was a time of profound cultural and artistic exploration, particularly influenced by the enduring popularity of Giacomo Puccini's opera "Madame Butterfly." Set in early 20th-century Japan, the opera evoked themes of love, betrayal, and cultural clash, resonating deeply with audiences of the time. The character Sousouki, Madame Butterfly's maid, symbolized fidelity and support amidst the tragedy of unrequited love and cultural misunderstanding.

The name "Sousouki" itself is derived from Miscanthus sinensis, commonly known as Japanese silver grass or susuki in Japanese. This plant is native to East Asia and holds cultural significance in Japanese aesthetics, often featured in traditional paintings and poetry for its graceful appearance and seasonal symbolism.

Babani's choice of "Sousouki" as a perfume name likely aimed to evoke a sense of elegance, cultural richness, and perhaps a touch of melancholy associated with the opera's narrative. In the early 20th century, naming a perfume after a character from a beloved opera would have appealed to those who appreciated the arts and sought sophistication in their fragrance choices.

Fleurs d'Annam by Babani c1920

In 1920, when Babani launched "Fleurs d'Annam," the world was captivated by the exotic allure of distant lands, and perfumes often sought to evoke the mysteries of far-off places. The French name "Fleurs d'Annam" translates to "Flowers of Annam" in English. "Annam" refers to the French protectorate of central Vietnam, known as "An Nam" in Vietnamese, a region characterized by its rich cultural heritage and lush natural beauty.

Babani likely chose the name "Fleurs d'Annam" to evoke images of the exotic flowers and landscapes of Vietnam. The name itself suggests a bouquet of flowers native to Annam, promising a fragrance that captures the essence of this distant land. During the early 20th century, French perfumers often drew inspiration from colonial territories, imbuing their creations with a sense of adventure and discovery.

"Fleurs d'Annam" would have resonated with individuals fascinated by travel, exoticism, and the natural world. Those who sought escape from the everyday into realms of romance and exploration would be drawn to such a perfume. Its name alone conjures images of vibrant tropical blooms, serene landscapes, and the heady scent of exotic flowers carried on warm breezes.

Chypre Egyptienne by Babani c1919

In 1919, the launch of "Chypre Egyptienne" by Babani occurred against a backdrop rich with cultural and historical references that influenced its name and appeal. The term "Chypre" refers to a distinctive fragrance family characterized by a base of oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli, often blended with citrus and floral notes. This style was pioneered by the perfume "Chypre" by François Coty in 1917, marking a new era in perfumery.

The addition of "Egyptienne" to the name "Chypre Egyptienne" suggests a fusion of oriental and ancient Egyptian themes. Egypt held a deep allure during this period due to ongoing archaeological discoveries and popular culture fascination with its exotic history and art. The French name translates to "Egyptian Cyprus," combining elements evoking both the Mediterranean island and the mystical allure of ancient Egypt.

Babani likely chose this name to capitalize on the trend of exoticism and nostalgia prevalent in early 20th-century Europe. The blend of chypre elements with Egyptian imagery promised a perfume that was both sophisticated and evocative, appealing to a clientele fascinated by the exotic and the luxurious.

Jasmin de Coree by Babani c1920

In 1920, the period surrounding the launch of "Jasmin de Corée" by Babani was marked by cultural fascination with exoticism and the allure of distant lands. This era, post-World War I and amidst significant societal changes, saw a burgeoning interest in fragrances that evoked images of far-off places and rare botanicals.

The name "Jasmin de Corée" translates to "Jasmine of Korea" in English. Choosing this name likely appealed to Babani due to several reasons. Firstly, jasmine has long been associated with beauty, elegance, and sensuality in perfumery. By specifically referencing Korea, a country renowned for its rich cultural heritage and natural beauty, Babani aimed to evoke an aura of exotic allure and sophistication.

"Jasmin de Corée" would have been a fitting name for a perfume in the early 20th century for several reasons. Firstly, jasmine as a scent is universally beloved for its sweet, floral fragrance, often considered romantic and alluring. By associating it with Korea, Babani tapped into the fascination with Eastern cultures that was prevalent in Europe during that time. The name suggests a blend of the familiar (jasmine) with the exotic (Korea), appealing to consumers' desire for escapism and luxury.

White Orchid by Elizabeth Arden c1940

White Orchid by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1940.

Bride's Perfume c1937

Bride's Perfume by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1937. This is different from the presentation called Bride's Bouquet.

Photos from Passion for Perfume website

Giardini by Babani c1924

In 1924, the world was emerging from the devastation of World War I, moving towards a period known as the "Roaring Twenties." This decade was characterized by economic prosperity, cultural dynamism, and significant social change. The period saw a fascination with modernity, as well as a longing for elegance and luxury. It was a time when women were increasingly gaining independence, symbolized by the flapper movement, with shorter skirts, bobbed hair, and a spirit of defiance against traditional norms. In this vibrant context, gardenias became a symbol of sophistication and timeless beauty, often used in perfumes to evoke an air of opulence and romance.

The word "Giardini" is Italian. It translates to "gardens" in English. The choice of this name for a perfume likely aims to evoke the rich cultural heritage of Italy, known for its beautiful and historic gardens, and to convey a sense of elegance, natural beauty, and luxury associated with these settings. Babani likely chose this name to evoke the lush, verdant imagery of an exquisite garden. Gardens are often associated with tranquility and a sense of escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. By naming their perfume "Giardini," Babani aimed to capture the essence of a serene and luxurious garden, filled with the intoxicating scent of blooming flowers, particularly gardenias, which were popular and admired for their rich, creamy fragrance.

"Giardini" is an excellent name for a perfume because it conjures up images of a beautiful, well-tended garden in full bloom, suggesting a fragrance that is fresh, floral, and rich with natural beauty. The name implies a sensory journey, inviting the wearer to experience the lush and aromatic ambiance of a secret garden. This imagery is not only appealing but also timeless, as gardens have long been associated with romantic and idyllic settings, offering a perfect escape into nature's splendor.

Memoire Cherie by Elizabeth Arden c1956

Memoire Cherie by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1956. The Grecian goddess of memory is depicted on the packages.

Secret Princesse Nefertiti by Babani c1937

The perfume "Secret Princesse Nefertiti" by Babani was launched in 1937, a time when the world was fascinated by ancient Egypt and its mysteries. The discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 had sparked a renewed interest in Egyptology, influencing art, fashion, and popular culture throughout the 1920s and 1930s. This period saw an influx of Egyptian motifs in design, from jewelry to architecture, as the Western world romanticized and idealized ancient Egyptian civilization. Perfume, an integral part of ancient Egyptian rituals and daily life, found a natural resonance in this context, and "Secret Princesse Nefertiti" emerged as a blend of this historical fascination and contemporary allure.

The name "Secret Princesse Nefertiti" translates to "Secret Princess Nefertiti" in English. The choice of this name by Babani, a renowned Parisian couturier and perfumer, was likely influenced by the aura of mystery and beauty surrounding Queen Nefertiti, one of ancient Egypt's most famous and enigmatic figures. Nefertiti, known for her stunning beauty and powerful position as the Great Royal Wife of Pharaoh Akhenaten, symbolizes timeless elegance and intrigue. By associating the perfume with Nefertiti, Babani tapped into the fascination with ancient Egypt and its perceived exoticism and sophistication.

"Secret Princesse Nefertiti" is an evocative name for a perfume, as it conjures images of hidden allure and regal beauty. The notion of a "secret" adds an element of mystery, suggesting a fragrance that is both personal and revealing only to those privileged enough to experience it. This name would appeal to individuals who saw themselves as sophisticated and discerning, seeking a scent that embodies both historical grandeur and an air of enigma.

Cabriole by Elizabeth Arden c1977

Launched in 1977, Cabriole by Elizabeth Arden was a fragrance designed to capture the grace, femininity, and vitality of its era. The name “Cabriole,” pronounced cab-ree-ohl, is derived from the French term for a ballet movement—a leap accompanied by a turn of the legs mid-air. This choice of name was both evocative and sophisticated, suggesting elegance, lightness, and a sense of joyous motion. For women of the time, the name “Cabriole” likely conjured images of fluidity and refinement, evoking emotions of aspiration and freedom.

The ballet reference would have resonated particularly well with the 1970s audience, a time when women were embracing more liberated roles and identities, often balancing grace and strength in their personal and professional lives. A perfume named “Cabriole” would have appealed to the modern woman seeking a scent that symbolized this duality—delicate yet confident, traditional yet adventurous.

In terms of its composition, Cabriole was classified as a soft, aldehydic floral fragrance, a popular genre at the time but delivered with Arden’s signature twist. It opened with a bright and fresh green aldehydic burst that immediately captured attention, reminiscent of crisp morning air infused with leafy vitality. The heart of the fragrance bloomed into a bouquet of sweet florals such as rose, jasmine, and lily of the valley, interwoven with sweet spices that added depth and intrigue. This floral heart was balanced by a warm, woodsy, and powdery base, featuring notes like sandalwood, musk, and perhaps a touch of orris, grounding the fragrance in femininity and elegance. The result was an exhilarating blend described by Arden as “flowers and more flowers mixed and mingled with spices and leafy green notes.”

Arden for Men Sandalwood by Elizabeth Arden c1957

Arden for Men Sandalwood by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1957. A line of men's toiletries and fragrances.

Secret de Babani by Babani c1920

Secret de Babani by Babani: launched in 1920.

Ambre de Delhi by Babani - Parfum de Hindou c1921

In the early 20th century, the Western world was enthralled by the exotic allure of the Orient, India, and all things associated with these distant lands. This fascination was fueled by the mysteries, opulence, and perceived romance of these cultures, which were often depicted in literature, art, and emerging media like film. The year 1921, when "Ambre de Delhi" by Babani was launched, was a period marked by this cultural phenomenon, known as Orientalism. This was a time when Western society was captivated by the intricate artistry, rich tapestries, and the enchanting scents of spices and resins from the East. The luxury and mystique of these regions provided a stark contrast to the austerity and hardship experienced in the West, particularly in the aftermath of World War I.

The name "Ambre de Delhi" translates to "Amber of Delhi" in English. Ambergris, a rare and valuable substance produced by sperm whales, had been a coveted ingredient in perfumery for centuries due to its rich, sweet, and musky scent. By associating the perfume with Delhi, one of India's most historic and culturally rich cities, Babani tapped into the Western romanticization of India as a land of grandeur, spirituality, and sensory opulence. The choice of the name "Ambre de Delhi" was deliberate, aiming to evoke the exoticism and timeless beauty of Indian culture.

"Ambre de Delhi" would have been an evocative and appealing name for a perfume in 1921 for several reasons. Firstly, the use of "ambre" (amber) in the name would immediately suggest warmth, richness, and sensuality, key attributes that were highly desirable in perfumes of the era. Secondly, the reference to Delhi would invoke visions of an exotic and luxurious destination, rich in history and culture. This would have been particularly appealing to a Western audience eager to escape the realities of their own lives through the sensory experience of fragrance.

The audience for "Ambre de Delhi" would likely have been affluent women and men who were drawn to the sophisticated and exotic. These individuals, often part of the higher echelons of society, would have responded to this perfume with a sense of adventure and curiosity, appreciating its connection to a world far removed from their own. The name alone would conjure images of vibrant marketplaces, lush palaces, and the intoxicating scents of spices and flowers wafting through the air.

The term "Ambre de Delhi" evokes a plethora of images and emotions. It brings to mind the golden hues of amber stones, the rich and opulent interiors of Indian palaces, and the warmth of a sunset over the bustling streets of Delhi. Emotionally, it speaks to a yearning for exploration, a desire for luxury, and an appreciation for the deep, sensual fragrances that have long been associated with the East. Subtitled "the Breath of Love" and "Parfum de Hindou," the perfume not only promised an exotic olfactory journey but also suggested an intimate, almost spiritual connection to the essence of Indian culture and romance. The evocative name and its subtitles painted a picture of a world where love and luxury intertwined in the most exotic of settings, making "Ambre de Delhi" a captivating and desirable fragrance for its time.

Cupid’s Breath by Elizabeth Arden c1924

Cupid's Breath by Elizabeth Arden, launched around 1924, is a name that stirs both mythological imagery and an aura of romantic allure. The term "Cupid’s Breath" invokes the mythical god of love, Cupid, who in Roman mythology is often depicted as a playful, mischievous figure whose arrow could cause hearts to fall in love. The phrase suggests an ethereal, almost magical essence—like a light breeze carrying a whisper of passion or desire. The use of "Breath" in the name conjures images of something delicate, fleeting, and enchanting. It hints at an air of sensuality and mystery, a fragrance that would be experienced intimately and softly, lingering just enough to captivate the senses. The name would likely have appealed to women of the time as a representation of romanticism, making it the perfect choice for a fragrance aimed at evoking emotions of love, longing, and charm.

For women of the 1920s, Cupid's Breath would have been interpreted as a perfume imbued with the essence of romance and attraction. The 1920s were a period of great social change, particularly for women who were breaking free from traditional roles and embracing newfound freedom. A fragrance named Cupid's Breath would tap into the cultural zeitgeist of romantic love and the exciting allure of the modern woman. At a time when flapper fashion and independent lifestyles were taking hold, this perfume would serve as a playful, elegant companion to the woman's desire to embrace both beauty and seduction. The idea of "Cupid’s Breath" in scent would evoke the softness and warmth of a gentle floral, a fragrance that encapsulated not just beauty but also the mystery of love's effects on the heart and mind.

On Dit by Elizabeth Arden c1937

Elizabeth Arden's choice of the name "On Dit" for her 1937 fragrance evokes intrigue and sophistication. Meaning "They Say" in French (pronounced awn-dee), the phrase captures the essence of gossip, rumor, and the seductive allure of whispered secrets. The name, steeped in the elegance of the French language, reflects the global fascination with Parisian chic during the interwar years. It conjures images of soirées where women exchanged hushed confidences and elusive glances over champagne, their elegance enhanced by the subtle, intoxicating aura of their perfume.

In the 1930s, women were embracing a new modernity while holding on to traditional notions of glamour. A perfume named "On Dit" would have resonated with women who delighted in the thrill of mystery and the power of allure. It symbolized a statement of confidence, sophistication, and the art of leaving a lasting impression. For women of the era, "On Dit" was not just a fragrance—it was a character, a story, and an invitation to step into an air of elegant secrecy.

Created by the legendary Edmond Roudnitska, On Dit is classified as a floral oriental fragrance with a distinctive chypre backbone. The opening dazzles with the sharp brilliance of citron and lemongrass, accented by effervescent aldehydes and the juicy sweetness of fresh peaches. This initial brightness has been likened to the peachy opening of Mitsouko by Guerlain, a fragrance that redefined chypre compositions.

At its heart, On Dit blooms with a bouquet of timeless florals: the heady richness of jasmine, the powdery softness of heliotrope, the romantic allure of rose, and the creamy opulence of tuberose. These are heightened by the spicy clove-like nuances of carnation, adding depth and warmth to the composition.

The base grounds the fragrance in earthy and resinous notes, with galbanum's green sharpness, vetiver's smoky sophistication, and musk's sensual depth. Leafy, mossy undertones and the fresh, sappy accords evoke the verdant stillness of a shaded forest, giving On Dit a rooted, natural elegance.