Elizabeth Arden Perfumes: Ambre de Delhi by Babani

In the early 20th century, the Western world was enthralled by the exotic allure of the Orient, India, and all things associated with these distant lands. This fascination was fueled by the mysteries, opulence, and perceived romance of these cultures, which were often depicted in literature, art, and emerging media like film. The year 1921, when "Ambre de Delhi" by Babani was launched, was a period marked by this cultural phenomenon, known as Orientalism. This was a time when Western society was captivated by the intricate artistry, rich tapestries, and the enchanting scents of spices and resins from the East. The luxury and mystique of these regions provided a stark contrast to the austerity and hardship experienced in the West, particularly in the aftermath of World War I.

The name "Ambre de Delhi" translates to "Amber of Delhi" in English. Ambergris, a rare and valuable substance produced by sperm whales, had been a coveted ingredient in perfumery for centuries due to its rich, sweet, and musky scent. By associating the perfume with Delhi, one of India's most historic and culturally rich cities, Babani tapped into the Western romanticization of India as a land of grandeur, spirituality, and sensory opulence. The choice of the name "Ambre de Delhi" was deliberate, aiming to evoke the exoticism and timeless beauty of Indian culture.

"Ambre de Delhi" would have been an evocative and appealing name for a perfume in 1921 for several reasons. Firstly, the use of "ambre" (amber) in the name would immediately suggest warmth, richness, and sensuality, key attributes that were highly desirable in perfumes of the era. Secondly, the reference to Delhi would invoke visions of an exotic and luxurious destination, rich in history and culture. This would have been particularly appealing to a Western audience eager to escape the realities of their own lives through the sensory experience of fragrance.

The audience for "Ambre de Delhi" would likely have been affluent women and men who were drawn to the sophisticated and exotic. These individuals, often part of the higher echelons of society, would have responded to this perfume with a sense of adventure and curiosity, appreciating its connection to a world far removed from their own. The name alone would conjure images of vibrant marketplaces, lush palaces, and the intoxicating scents of spices and flowers wafting through the air.

The term "Ambre de Delhi" evokes a plethora of images and emotions. It brings to mind the golden hues of amber stones, the rich and opulent interiors of Indian palaces, and the warmth of a sunset over the bustling streets of Delhi. Emotionally, it speaks to a yearning for exploration, a desire for luxury, and an appreciation for the deep, sensual fragrances that have long been associated with the East. Subtitled "the Breath of Love" and "Parfum de Hindou," the perfume not only promised an exotic olfactory journey but also suggested an intimate, almost spiritual connection to the essence of Indian culture and romance. The evocative name and its subtitles painted a picture of a world where love and luxury intertwined in the most exotic of settings, making "Ambre de Delhi" a captivating and desirable fragrance for its time.

Ambre de Delhi, Parfum Hindou, captures the essence of India, enchanted and unguessable, deepening the mystery and allure of anyone who wears it. It is an exquisite perfume with a characteristic indescribable charm, evocative of the enchanted atmosphere of the Arabian Nights and the scents of the flowers of Araby. This fragrance signifies the beauty of stiff brocades and queenly dignified things, designed for occasions of magnificence and formality, complementing gowns of velvet or statuesque brocade.

The name "Ambre de Delhi" immediately conjures images of opulence and grandeur, fitting perfectly with the formality of brocade gowns, superb furs, and priceless jewels. Its aroma increases the magnificence of your costume, adding a layer of elegance that is supremely sophisticated. In the crush outside the theatre, the fragrance of Babani's Ambre de Delhi becomes quite noticeable, as women nestle into their sumptuous wraps. The perfume is particularly successful on fur, enhancing its luxurious texture and warmth.

Ambre de Delhi recalls the richness of the Indian subcontinent, where the perfume's notes weave a spell as potent as India's own enchantment. It captures the essence of formal events, where the refined and the exquisite come together in a display of unparalleled elegance. The scent enhances the magnificence of gowns and jewels, creating an aura of sophistication that is hard to match. The wearer of Ambre de Delhi is enveloped in an air of mystique, their presence amplified by the fragrance's depth and charm.

This perfume evokes images of regal settings, where the elegance of brocades and the splendor of furs are complemented by the rich, warm scent of amber. It brings to mind the luxury of India's historical courts, where magnificence and formality were the order of the day. The scent is a reminder of the beauty and elegance that can be achieved when the right elements come together, creating a sensory experience that is both enchanting and unforgettable. Ambre de Delhi is not just a fragrance; it is an embodiment of elegance, mystery, and the timeless charm of India.

Ambre de Delhi is an ideal choice. Its rich and sophisticated scent complements a refined lifestyle, resonating with the elegance and grace of its wearer. Ambre de Delhi is versatile and can be creatively blended with other fragrances to create unique combinations. For instance, when mixed with Ligeia in a proportion of 1 to 3, it forms another lovely fragrance, adding a new dimension to its charm.

For brunettes, a blend of Ambre de Delhi with Chypre Egyptienne creates a distinctive and harmonious scent, perfectly suited to enhance their natural allure. This combination adds depth and complexity, highlighting the sophisticated and mysterious qualities that both fragrances embody. The ability to mix Ambre de Delhi with other perfumes showcases its versatility and the artistry behind its creation.

If you are conventional, dignified, stately - fond of society and beauty - you will choose Babani's Ambre de Delhi and Ligeia.. In the proportion of 1 to 3, these perfumes blend to make another lovely fragrance. For brunettes, mix Ambre de Delhi with Chypre Egyptienne.

It was suggested that you blend Ambre de Delhi with other Babani perfumes such as Ligeia. As well as another formula of Saigon, Ambre and Afghani.

Pale moon that sends a silver shaft of light

Into the scented dusk where lovers meet

Into the garden where

A thousand sleeping flowers

Sigh in sweet sympathy

And send up their fragrance

To feed love's flame yet higher

So much it seems the breath of love itself

Precious as lovers half told dreams

Such is

AMBRE DE DELHI

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women with a very dominant ambergris note. I would need a sample of the perfume to tell you what it really smells like.

There are no published notes on this composition, but it is described as "a perfume of elegance, fitting the formality of brocade gowns, superb furs and priceless jewels. Ambre is the favorite perfume of Paris this season". It was also described as "a true Oriental odeur, a spicy fragrance with the hint of something smoky and mysterious."

Top notes: bergamot, neroli, reseda, geranium
Middle notes: carnation, spices, orange blossom, jasmine, rose
Base notes: vetiver, ambergris, incense, vanilla, oakmoss, tonka bean, patchouli, labdanum, sandalwood, musk, civet, styrax, benzoin

Harper's Bazaar - Volume 57 - Page 114, 1922:

"Ambre de Delhi is loveliest, perhaps; it is becoming the smartest perfume of the season. But Babani has a fragrance for every mood—Afghani." Ligeia, Ming and even others. and pretty new bottles. $2.50, 56, $12, $20."

Vogue, 1922:

"Elizabeth Arden's haunting Poppye Perfume, in exotic-looking box. $10. Babani Ambre de Delhi, a famous Oriental essence in melon-shaped bottle and gold moire box, $10. French design, attractively boxed, $5."

Sketch, 1922:

"Each one is a rich uncommon odour— prepared by the famous Babani of Paris. AMBRE de DELHI An exquisite perfume with a characteristic, indescribable charm. Recalls the enchanted atmosphere of the Arabian Nights."

Harper's Bazaar, 1922:

"Ambre de Delhi: a perfume of elegance and distinction, in a flat gold bottle, hand decorated in black design. In a gold box, lined with black satin, $12. Ambre de Delhi, in other bottles, from $2.75, 7.50 and up."

Arizona Republic, 1924:

"Babani's Ambre de Delhi for occasions of magnificence and formality, for gowns of velvet or statuesque brocade. Ambre de Delhi is supremely elegant. In the crush outside the theatre the fragrance of Babani's Ambre de Delhi is quite noticeable, as women nestle into their sumptuous wraps. This fragrance is particularly successful on fur. $2.75, $7.00."

The New Yorker, 1925:

"Blend two or more Babani perfumes to create a perfume entirely your own. Blend Afghani with Ligeia. Blend Chypre and Sousouki. Blend Ambre de Delhi with Ltgeia, varying the proportions to make a personal formula. Babani perfumes are imported by Elizabeth Arden in just the bottles and boxes in which they are sealed in Paris."

Arts & Decoration, 1925:

" L'Ambre Antique, or Ambre de Delhi, those exotic scents, petrified tears, found in the bosom of mother earth."

Home Journal, 1927:

"Ambre de Delhi, Chypre Egyptien, Sousouki, Ming, Jasmin, Yasmak, Saigon. $8.50 to $150."

Advertising to Women, 1928:

"AMBRE DE DELHI is for moments of magnificence, for frocks of brocade and formality. It is the perfume for the Opera, for other splendid gatherings. It is good on fur. $5. $7. $9. - SOUSOUKI is soft, appealing."

Harper's Magazine, 1930:

"Some of that Ambre de Delhi that I buy for Sarah?" "Not that melodramatic perfume!" " It puts me back a hundred and fifty a bottle," boasted Mr. Van Tile vulgarly, trying to place a proper value upon his bribe and upon his charming attentions."

Bottles:

Ambre de Delhi was presented in a variety of bottles.

The de luxe crystal flacon, created by Depinoix was of a square shape, entirely covered with gold enamel and hand painted with a black design of a mythological creature. The reverse had a different motif in black enamel tracery. The flacon was fitted with a multifaceted crystal lapidary stopper, also entirely covered with gold enamel. There are four sizes of this bottle:

Petit Modele (Small) - 4.25" tall x 2" wide and 1.25" thick
Moyen Modele (Medium) - 5.25" tall
Grande Modele (Large) - 7.5" tall x 4" wide x 2" thick.

The other deluxe bottle was an oval shaped, flat bottle, also made of black crystal entirely covered with a gilded overlay and black enameled designs. This size was meant to carry in the handbag. It was presented in a gold paper covered box, lined with black satin satin. Bottle designed by Decor Auziès of Paris. Bottle measures 3"tall x 2.5" wide x 0.5" thick.

A rare deluxe bottle was the perfume atomizer for Ambre de Delhi, made up of clear crystal, completely gilded and further enhanced with an enameled dragon in black, it has the Babani label on the bottom, and the metal fittings are marked "Vapo-Baby-Paris." The bottle stands 3" tall. c1920.

Other bottles included the following:

Serie 31 - the "Boule," a frosted glass ball or melon shaped flacon with frosted rose stopper.
Serie 30 - the "Plat," a flat colorless glass flacon fitted with a flat, frosted glass stopper molded with flowers.
Serie 42 - In this Far Eastern bottle, a choice of the following two perfumes: Ambre de Delhi and Saigon

The Boule & the Plat bottles were stock bottles used by Babani to contain their other perfumes.

A rare to find today, the "Boule" shaped bottle was made up of frosted glass and had a stylized frosted glass rose stopper enhanced with gold and black enamel. The bottle had a gilded foil label. This bottle was called the "boule" in the Babani catalog, and was also used for other perfumes by Babani: Ambre de Delhi, Afghani. Rose Gullistan, Saigon. The bottle stands 7.5cm tall. It was housed in a "Hindu" box, lined in silk, and covered with gold embroidery. This presentation originally retailed for 75 francs.

No. 1003. Our twelve extracts in an elegant gold box.

A less expensive bottle was used in the late 1920s and into the 1930s. It is clear crystal with fluted sides. It has a raised enamel silhouette of a teal colored elephant and gold enamel lettering. The bottle is fitted with a frosted glass stopper molded with Art Deco roses. A more luxurious version has gold enamel. The bottles measure 3" tall x 1.75" wide x 1" thick. They were used for other Babani perfumes including Gardenia.