Moon Moss by Elizabeth Arden c1932

Launched during the holiday season of 1932 amidst the Great Depression, Moon Moss by Elizabeth Arden offered a beacon of enchantment and sophistication. The name itself, "Moon Moss," conjures an ethereal, dreamlike quality, evoking images of silver moonlight glinting off verdant landscapes draped in moss. Rooted in English, the term connects nature’s lush greenery with the celestial allure of the moon, a pairing that suggests a timeless, otherworldly elegance. For women navigating the challenges of the 1930s, Moon Moss would have been more than just a fragrance—it was an escape, a moment of fantasy and refinement in an otherwise austere reality.

The words "Moon Moss" invite associations of shimmering luminescence and soft, tactile verdancy. It evokes a woodland scene kissed by moonlight—mystical, serene, and deeply romantic. Women of the time, longing for moments of beauty and glamour, would have been drawn to the fragrance as an expression of their own enigmatic charm. The name also hints at mystery and seduction, perfectly aligned with the description of the scent as “phantom light,” a shimmering, tantalizing presence designed for the most provocative woman.

In olfactory terms, Moon Moss translates to a harmonious balance of freshness and sophistication. As a fresh chypre, its verdant top notes of bergamot and magnolia whisper of nature’s elegance, while its middle floral bouquet of orange blossom, jasmine, and gardenia captures femininity in bloom. The base of oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, amber, and labdanum offers a grounding warmth, echoing the soft yet steadfast embrace of moss underfoot. Together, these elements create a scent that feels simultaneously grounded and celestial—lush and mysterious, like moonlight illuminating a forest glade.

The fragrance debuted at a time when chypres were highly sought after, particularly those with a fresh twist that could uplift the spirits during the economic challenges of the Great Depression. While classic chypres often leaned toward dramatic and bold compositions, Moon Moss distinguished itself with its delicate sophistication and verdant freshness. It offered a more nuanced, exotic blend that evoked the South’s natural beauty and the romance of cypress trees, making it unique among its contemporaries.

The suggestion to pair Moon Moss with green-hued clothing and the Palm Beach cocktail—a dry and aromatic blend of vermouth, gin, and pink grapefruit juice—underscored its luxurious appeal. The fragrance wasn’t just a scent; it was part of a curated lifestyle, one that exuded refinement and allure. Its ties to color and drink choices reflected Elizabeth Arden’s holistic approach to beauty and elegance, encouraging women to immerse themselves in a world of coordinated sophistication.

Harper's Bazaar, 1933:

"Newest beauty finds, useful and frivolous ELIZABETH ARDEN has just presented three perfumes, Moon Moss, Ma Rue, and Tube Rose. She is best known as a beauty expert, it is true, but that is no reason not to take her perfumes seriously. They are very beautiful and any perfumer might well be proud of them. Moon Moss, according to rumor, is Miss Arden's own favorite and that is easy to understand. It has a lovely, fresh fragrance and would seem to us quite suitable for any person or occasion. But Ma Rue strikes us the same way. Tube Rose is the fragrance adored by women of strong personality.." 

Reportedly one of Miss Arden’s own favorites, Moon Moss embodied the brand’s philosophy of empowerment and beauty during adversity. For the women who wore it, the fragrance was more than a sensory experience; it was a symbol of poise, confidence, and the ability to captivate. Against the backdrop of a difficult decade, Moon Moss became a shimmering reminder of the resilience and mystery that defined women of the era.

Fragrance Composition:

So what  does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh chypre fragrance for women and was described as "delicate but sophisticated exotic blend", "a verdant delight" that "whispers of the South and Cypress trees." .

• Top notes: magnolia, bergamot, petitgrain, aldehydes, lemon, galbanum
• Middle notes: orange blossom, gardenia, jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang, rose, lilac, cyclamen
• Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, ambergris, labdanum, tonka bean, vetiver, cedar, benzoin, musk, cistus 

When Moon Moss was introduced in 1932, America was grappling with the crippling effects of the Great Depression. Yet, despite widespread financial hardship, luxury items like perfume remained aspirational symbols of hope, beauty, and escape. Perfume prices during this era were a testament to their exclusivity and allure, with Moon Moss commanding a high price, even by contemporary standards.

In its debut year, a bottle of Moon Moss ranged in price from $6.00 to $30.00, depending on size and presentation. While these figures might seem modest today, when adjusted for inflation, they equate to $132.45 for the smallest bottle and a staggering $662.23 for the most luxurious presentation in 2024 dollars. These prices positioned Moon Moss as an indulgence reserved for the affluent or those willing to splurge on a rare treat during a time when such extravagance was rare.

Harper's Bazaar, 1933:

"...La Joie, Le Reve, L'Amour, L'Elan, Tuberose and Moon Moss, atomizer included, $7.50 to $125."

By 1933, the fragrance was also offered in larger, more ornate bottles, some accompanied by atomizers that elevated their elegance and functionality. These bottles ranged from $7.50 to an opulent $125.00, a reflection of their luxurious design and craftsmanship. Adjusted for modern values, these prices would translate to $183.53 and $3,058.76, respectively, underscoring the prestige associated with owning Moon Moss in its most exquisite forms.

In 1937, prices reflected a broader range, making the perfume somewhat more accessible while retaining its status as a luxury item. The smallest dram was priced at $1.25, equivalent to $27.98 today, while the most extravagant bottles reached $52.00, or $1,164.15 when adjusted for inflation. This tiered pricing allowed women from varying economic backgrounds to partake in the allure of Moon Moss, whether by purchasing a modest dram or investing in a statement piece of elegance.

Through these pricing strategies, Moon Moss retained its prestige and mystique, offering an escape from the harsh realities of the Depression. It provided a sensory indulgence, a reminder of beauty and sophistication, and a small taste of glamour that, for many, was priceless.

Scent Profile:

As you experience Moon Moss by Elizabeth Arden, the fragrance unfolds like a walk through an enchanted forest under the silver glow of moonlight. Each ingredient plays a role in crafting its "delicate but sophisticated exotic blend," a verdant tapestry of nature's finest scents.

The first impression is an effervescent and bright embrace. The citrus sparkle of bergamot and lemon is uplifting, their zestiness tempered by the green, slightly bitter edge of petitgrain, which carries the essence of orange leaves and twigs. Magnolia adds a creamy, floral undertone to this citrus bouquet, evoking petals kissed by dew. There’s a subtle crispness from aldehydes, creating an airy, sparkling quality like moonlight dancing on water. Galbanum, with its resinous green sharpness, deepens the freshness, conjuring the scent of crushed leaves and verdant forest undergrowth.

As the top notes settle, a lush floral heart unfolds. The powdery, slightly waxy scent of orange blossom mingles with the creamy richness of gardenia, creating an opulent bouquet. Jasmine and tuberose lend an intoxicating, almost narcotic sweetness, while ylang ylang adds its tropical, slightly fruity nuance. Rose offers a timeless elegance, while lilac brings a soft, nostalgic charm, like a spring garden in full bloom. The cool, aquatic touch of cyclamen balances the florals, preventing them from becoming overly heady, and adding a veil of delicacy to the composition.

Finally, the base notes emerge, grounding the scent with warmth and mystery. Oakmoss is the soul of this chypre fragrance, earthy and slightly damp, like moss-covered stones in a forest. The smoky sweetness of patchouli mingles with the creamy richness of sandalwood and the resinous depth of labdanum. Ambergris lends a subtle, salty warmth, while benzoin contributes a soft balsamic sweetness. Tonka bean brings hints of vanilla and almond, its creamy smoothness enhanced by the musky warmth of vetiver and cedar. The animalic allure of musk adds depth, and cistus weaves everything together with its herbaceous, slightly leathery undertones.

Together, these elements create a symphony of contrasts: fresh yet sophisticated, delicate yet powerful. Moon Moss whispers of exotic landscapes, verdant foliage, and moonlit mystery, leaving behind an unforgettable trail of elegance and intrigue.

Bottles:

 The cube-shaped crystal bottle, an enduring hallmark of Elizabeth Arden’s early packaging, is a study in elegant simplicity. Crafted from clear crystal, its geometric form exudes modern sophistication, perfectly aligning with the sleek Art Deco aesthetic of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The bottle's clean lines and precise symmetry reflect a sense of refinement that enhances the luxurious nature of the perfume it houses.

Adorning the front, black silk-screened enamel lettering provides a stark, graphic contrast to the transparency of the crystal. The lettering, delicately applied, not only identifies the scent but also contributes to the bottle’s minimalist appeal. Its ground glass cube-shaped stopper fits seamlessly into the bottle’s opening, completing the cohesive design. This precision fit ensured the precious perfume within was protected from evaporation while maintaining the understated elegance of the flacon.

Elizabeth Arden used this versatile cube flacon for several of her scents, including the famous Blue Grass. It was offered in three distinct sizes to suit different preferences: a diminutive 2-inch version, a medium 3-inch size, and the 5/16 oz bottle, somewhere in the middle which stands at 2.25 inches tall. Despite their small stature, these bottles were objects of luxury and desire, embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and aesthetic excellence.

A rare variation of this design elevates its collectible appeal—a luxurious version fitted with a chrome-plated atomizer mechanism with silken cord and bulb. These bottles were available in larger sizes and some were used as tester flacons in Elizabeth Arden salons, making them exceedingly scarce today. The juxtaposition of the polished chrome hardware against the clear crystal cube added a unique industrial edge to the otherwise delicate design. Because of their rarity and association with the glamorous world of Arden salons, these atomizer bottles are highly sought after by collectors, prized not only for their scarcity but also for their historical significance in the evolution of luxury perfume packaging.

The cube crystal bottle remains a timeless symbol of Elizabeth Arden’s innovative approach to design, merging functionality with an understated elegance that defined her brand and captivated the imaginations of her clientele.

An exceptionally rare and remarkable find in Elizabeth Arden's collection is the largest version of the iconic cube-shaped crystal bottle, designed to hold an impressive 32 ounces of parfum. This grand flacon, a true statement of opulence, retailed for $125 in 1930—a staggering sum equivalent to approximately $2,307.49 in 2024's currency. The bottle's sheer size, combined with its luxurious design, made it a symbol of exclusivity and affluence, catering to only the most discerning clientele. Its substantial capacity emphasized the rarity and value of the parfum it contained, elevating it to a status beyond mere fragrance. Today, surviving examples of this monumental bottle are not only testaments to Elizabeth Arden's commitment to luxury but also prized artifacts of early 20th-century perfume history, coveted by collectors for their rarity and historical significance.

The launch of Elizabeth Arden's largest 32-ounce parfum bottle in 1930 is particularly striking when viewed against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This period, marked by widespread economic hardship, unemployment, and financial instability, saw a sharp decline in consumer spending. For many, luxury items such as fine perfumes were an unattainable extravagance. Yet, the existence and pricing of this grand flacon, retailing at $125 (equivalent to over $2,300 today), underscore Elizabeth Arden's strategic appeal to a niche market untouched by financial strain—wealthy patrons who continued to seek and afford symbols of refinement and status even in challenging times.

The bottle, with its monumental size and price tag, served as a beacon of aspiration and exclusivity. It was more than a container for fragrance; it represented resilience and luxury in a world grappling with scarcity. For those who could afford it, such a purchase may have been a means to assert their personal success or escape the grim realities of the era, enveloped in the glamour and comfort Arden's brand promised. This bold marketing move during the Great Depression highlights the duality of luxury—both a reflection of societal challenges and a celebration of enduring elegance amidst adversity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Both the perfume and its exquisite crystal cube bottles were crafted in France, a reflection of Elizabeth Arden's dedication to sourcing the finest materials and production for her luxury brand. The French origin of the fragrance underscored its prestige, with every aspect—from the quality of the ingredients to the meticulous craftsmanship of the bottles—carefully curated to exude sophistication. However, this reliance on French production proved to be a vulnerability with the onset of World War II.

By 1940, the escalating conflict and the resulting disruptions to trade made it increasingly difficult to import the essential ingredients and bottles from France. As wartime shortages and logistical challenges mounted, the Arden company was forced to discontinue production of this remarkable perfume. While leftover stock continued to appear in advertisements as late as 1944, the remaining bottles were sold at drastically reduced prices, a stark contrast to their original luxury positioning. This clearance marked the end of an era for this particular fragrance, which would never be produced again, even after the war's conclusion.

Today, the perfume's brief production period, coupled with its discontinuation during such a tumultuous time, has rendered it one of Elizabeth Arden’s most elusive and sought-after fragrances. The rarity of surviving bottles makes them highly desirable among collectors, not just for their historical significance but also as poignant artifacts of a world forever changed by the impact of war.