Mille Fleurs by Elizabeth Arden c1939

Mille Fleurs by Elizabeth Arden, launched in 1939, evokes a rich tapestry of floral beauty and history. The name Mille Fleurs (pronounced meel-FLUHR), French for "a thousand flowers," immediately conjures images of opulent fields bursting with blooms. The name also nods to an enduring European tradition in perfumery, dating back to the Georgian and Victorian eras, when Mille Fleurs compositions—complex blends of fragrant floral waste—were repurposed into luxurious fragrances. Arden's choice of name was both a homage to the legacy of perfumery and a strategic move to link her brand to the sophistication and artistry associated with French perfumes, as many of her creations were made in Paris.

The very term Mille Fleurs is inherently evocative. It suggests abundance, variety, and the natural splendor of a sunlit meadow filled with flowers. For women in the late 1930s and early 1940s—a time marked by economic recovery from the Great Depression and the looming uncertainties of World War II—the concept of Mille Fleurs offered an escape into a world of beauty and possibility. The fragrance name symbolized a celebration of nature's bounty and the promise of renewal, themes that resonated deeply with the era’s aspirations.

The Mille Fleurs fragrance itself was a bouquet of layered complexity, capturing the spirit of its name in olfactory form. It would have been an intricate blend of floral notes, harmonized with herbs, spices, resins, and fixatives. Early Mille Fleurs perfumes of the 19th century relied on natural materials like tinctures of violet, heliotrope, tonka bean, and vanilla. By 1939, advances in chemistry allowed for the inclusion of innovative synthetics such as methyl ionone, heliotropin, and coumarin, which enhanced the fragrance's longevity and depth. These elements would have combined to create a symphony of floral freshness grounded by warm, spicy, and animalic undertones—a composition both nostalgic and modern for its time.

Launched as part of an elegant collection inspired by the artistry of antique Empire mille-fleurs paperweights, Arden’s Mille Fleurs extended its motif to the packaging. Bottles were topped with delicate miniature mille-fleurs paperweight stoppers, while matching boxes adorned with blooming floral designs further reinforced the theme. The marketing captured the romance of Southern France’s flower fields, emphasizing the fragrance’s connection to the heart of traditional French perfumery.

In the broader context of the late 1930s, Mille Fleurs fit into a trend of fragrances celebrating floral opulence, yet it stood apart with its nostalgic yet fresh reinterpretation of a historical theme. While competitors like Caron's Bellodgia or Guerlain's Mitsouko explored singular floral themes or chypre blends, Arden's Mille Fleurs offered something uniquely expansive—a symphony of countless blossoms, encapsulating the timeless allure of a thousand flowers. For its time, it was both a nod to tradition and a celebration of innovation, bridging the past and present in a manner that captured the hearts of women seeking beauty, elegance, and escape.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet, aromatic floral fragrance for women. Advertisements claimed it was made with "a rare pre-war French essence."

• Top notes: Citral, palmarosa, lemon, bergamot, geraniol, orange, neroli, eugenol, verbena, pimento, acacia, citronellal, reseda
• Middle notes: dianthine, rosemary, clove bud, methyl ionone, tuberose, thyme, Mitcham lavender, rose, jasmine, Ceylon cinnamon, honey, heliotropin, Florentine iris, orange blossom, pepper
• Base notes: sandalwood, vanillin, ambrette, styrax, storax, tolu balsam, musk xylene, ambergris, vetiver, cedar, civet, patchouli, Peru balsam, Siamese benzoin, oakmoss, cistus labdanum

 

Woman's Home Companion, 1942:

"Elizabeth Arden is soon presenting a new perfume, Mille Fleurs, that is the breath of spring."

Brown & Gold, 1942:

"Elizabeth Arden. Mille Fleurs Perfume, a new scent as fragile as crystal...and as alluring. Made with a rare French essence.... $5.00,. $9.00. $14.50, $23.50."

Scent Profile:

Mille Fleurs by Elizabeth Arden is a symphony of complex ingredients that weave together a tapestry of aromas, each evoking vivid imagery and deep emotions. The fragrance begins with a burst of freshness in its top notes, evolving into a heart of warm florals and spices before settling into an opulent base. Let’s explore each layer in detail, as though encountering the ingredients firsthand.

As the fragrance begins, citral and lemon provide an immediate bright, citrusy sharpness, reminiscent of zest freshly grated into the air. This brightness is softened by the green, rose-like sweetness of palmarosa and the slightly bitter undertone of bergamot, which balances the citrus with a touch of elegance. Geraniol, carrying the essence of geranium flowers, adds a floral warmth tinged with green crispness.

A touch of neroli, with its honeyed and slightly metallic orange blossom aroma, is softened by the sweetness of orange and the herbaceous lemony fragrance of verbena, creating a vibrant, sunny accord. The spicy clove nuance of eugenol whispers faintly, blending with the green, fresh note of citronellal and the powdery, faintly cucumber-like scent of reseda. Lastly, the dry spiciness of pimento and the soft, mimosa-like sweetness of acacia add depth, grounding the initial burst with a faintly exotic quality.

The heart of Mille Fleurs unfolds like a lush, blooming garden surrounded by a Mediterranean herb field. Dianthine, a synthetic recreation of carnation, exudes spicy floral richness, seamlessly merging with the warm, resinous spiciness of clove bud and the delicate, honeyed aroma of rosemary. The soothing herbaceousness of thyme and the fresh, camphorous qualities of Mitcham lavender evoke a tranquil countryside charm.

Luxurious florals take center stage here: tuberose offers its creamy, opulent sweetness, mingling with the velvety softness of rose and the bright, slightly indolic seduction of jasmine. Orange blossom continues the citrus-floral theme, lending a green, waxy sweetness. The delicate powdery richness of heliotropin, akin to almond, cherries and vanilla, adds a gourmand touch, while Florentine iris contributes a cool, buttery smoothness.

A hint of pepper introduces a bold, spicy contrast, while Ceylon cinnamon lends a warm, sweet exotic edge. Finally, honey bathes the heart in its golden, nectar-like sweetness, binding the floral and spicy notes into an enchanting harmony.

The dry-down is a masterwork of warmth, sensuality, and depth. Sandalwood emerges first, smooth and creamy, blending with the sweet, slightly smoky essence of vanillin. Ambrette, with its soft, musky and slightly fruity nuance, introduces a natural sensuality, complemented by the resinous richness of styrax and storax. The sweet, balsamic complexity of tolu balsam and Peru balsam creates a comforting cocoon of warmth.

Ambergris imparts a marine, salty depth, mingling with the earthy dryness of vetiver and the smoky, woody elegance of cedar. The animalic heat of musk xylene and civet lends a provocative allure, balanced by the resinous sweetness of Siamese benzoin and the leathery richness of cistus labdanum. The mossy, forest-floor earthiness of oakmoss and the dark, earthy spice of patchouli complete the base, creating a lingering, seductive presence that feels both timeless and regal.

The fragrance captures the essence of a flourishing garden, the spice of a distant market, and the warmth of an opulent boudoir. It evokes the image of a woman surrounded by a thousand blooms, each note a whisper of elegance, confidence, and mystery. In its time, Mille Fleurs stood as a bridge between the past’s romantic florals and the modern woman's desire for complexity and richness, embodying Arden's vision of beauty and sophistication in every drop.

Product Line:

The Mille Fleurs fragrance by Elizabeth Arden was not merely a perfume; it was an immersive experience that extended across a range of luxurious products. From the most concentrated parfum to complementary cosmetics, the collection reflected Arden's vision of beauty as a harmonious blend of fragrance and fashion.

The parfum, the most opulent form of the fragrance, captured the true essence of Mille Fleurs. Encased in elegant bottles adorned with miniature mille-fleurs paperweight stoppers, the parfum was a concentrated distillation of its lush floral composition. Each drop was designed to linger on the skin, enveloping the wearer in a bouquet of timeless sophistication.

For those seeking a lighter application, the eau de toilette and eau de cologne offered refreshing alternatives. These versions were ideal for daily use, providing a delicate veil of fragrance that echoed the vibrancy of the original parfum. The eau de toilette balanced elegance with accessibility, while the eau de cologne’s crisp and airy interpretation of Mille Fleurs was perfect for warmer weather or a casual splash of luxury.

The collection extended beyond perfume, integrating the scent into beauty rituals with products such as dusting powder. Infused with the Mille Fleurs fragrance, the finely milled powder left a subtle floral trail on the skin, adding a touch of refinement to a post-bath routine or as a finishing touch to evening attire. Housed in decorative packaging, it transformed a simple ritual into a moment of indulgence.

Arden also brought the essence of Mille Fleurs into her lipsticks, cream rouges, and nail polishes, blurring the lines between fragrance and fashion. These cosmetics carried the spirit of the fragrance into vibrant hues for the lips and cheeks, allowing women to coordinate their makeup with the floral elegance of the scent. The nail polish further extended the Mille Fleurs motif, enabling women to embrace the theme from head to fingertips.

The range of products ensured that Mille Fleurs could accompany a woman throughout her day, seamlessly integrating into her beauty regimen. Whether through a spritz of eau de toilette, a dusting of powder, or the subtle harmony of matching cosmetics, the Mille Fleurs collection encapsulated Elizabeth Arden’s philosophy of creating a complete and unified expression of elegance, leaving an indelible impression of grace and sophistication.

Opinion: A Journal of Jewish Life and Letters - Volumes 10-13 - Page 102, 1941:

"Newest Elizabeth Arden fragrance in Eau de Toilette and Dusting Powder in a satin-covered box. Tray removes and box can be used for hankies. 10.00. Purse-size flacon of Mille Fleurs Perfume in a circle of satin. 5.00"

Drug & Cosmetic Catalog, 1941:

"Mille Fleurs, Elizabeth Arden's fragrance of many flowers was made available in the lighter version of perfume, Flower Mist, in the popular pinch bottle, to retail at $3 for eight ounces."

   

Bottles:

Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, 1942:

"There's much more to this new "Mille Fleurs" perfume and makeup of Elizabeth Arden than we can crowd into an Easter column - it's a brand new repertoire inspired by those old Empire paperweights, and inspired is the word, all right! For the moment, you must hear that the fragrance recalls those fields of Southern France, with the thousands of flowers waiting to be picked and bottled into perfume - and that the thousand-flowers motif works out beautifully in bottles and blossoming boxes (bottles are stoppered with miniature mille-fleurs paperweights) be it perfume, toilet water, or dusting powder."

 The New Yorker, 1946:

"Elizabeth Arden: To start with, there's that new On Dit we were talking about. Her famous bath crystals are ... Beautiful bath sets ; from $4.80 to $42 in the Blue Grass fragrance, and from $7.80 to $39.60 in Mille Fleurs."

Harper's Bazaar - Page 296, 1946:

"Elizabeth Arden makes Christmas a thing of beauty . . . fills flacons with fragrance, brims boxes with beauty, wraps hearts in happiness. It's natural, though, as mistletoe ... Mille Fleurs Set with Perfume, Toilet Water, Dusting Powder, $33.00"

Home Journal, 1947:

"Elizabeth Arden's Mille Fleurs scent is transposed into sleek white satin sachets studded with multicolored sequins: one sachet pillow, with Mille Fleurs toilet water in a Christmas box. $12.50"

The New Yorker, 1946:

" Mille Fleurs Set with Perfume, Toilet Water, Dusting Powder, $33.00."

 

The Mille Fleurs Parfum was available in two round bottles that were based on an antique French millefleurs art glass paperweight: a gold plated glass flacon and a non-gold plated glass flacon. I dub these the "paperweight flacons". Both bottles had an orange Bakelite cap covering an inner glass stopper.

 The gold plated flacon was available in four sizes: 

• 5/16 oz
• 0.5 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall
• 1 oz 
• 2 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall x 2.25" in diameter

Cue, 1943:

"Elizabeth Arden - 5th Ave. at 54th St., Mille Fleurs Perfume young, gay - unforgettable. Newest addition to the Mille Fleurs sequence is this charming, round box with an interpretation of the paperweight embedded in the cover. Crystal bottle. $5."

The American Perfumer & Essential Oil Review, 1945:

"ELIZABETH ARDEN: Newest addition to the Elizabeth Arden family is Mille Fleurs Flower Mist. Presented in the famous eight ounce pinch bottle, the delightful fragrance of a thousand flowers is light, sweet and long lasting ."

Concert Bulletin of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, 1945:

"MILLE FLEURS - Crystal flower fantasy of a rare Empire paperweight interpreted by Elizabeth Arden in a captivating springtime fragrance. MILLE FLEURS SEQUENCE: Perfume, $5.00, $9.00, $14.50, $23.50 in crystal clear bottles; $10.50 $15.50, $24.50 in gold-plated bottles; Eau de Toilette, $7.50; Dusting Powder, $2.00."

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The clear glass paperweight flacon came in two sizes that I know of:

• 0.5 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall
• 2 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall x 2.25" in diameter.

Other bottles were also used for the Mille Fleurs Parfum and Eau de Toilette.

The other bottle used for the Parfum was the cube bottle used for other Arden scents. The clear glass bottle has black enamel lettering and a ground glass cube shaped stopper. Bottle stands 2.25" tall and holds 5/16 oz. The clear glass cube flacon was the earliest used by Arden and held many of her perfumes in addition to Blue Grass. It has a matching glass cube stopper and black serigraphy across the bottle. was presented in the standard crystal cube flacons by Elizabeth Arden.

Bottle sizes:

• 2 "tall.
• 3" tall
• 5/16 oz bottle stands 2.25 "tall.

 

Another bottle used was similar to the cube bottle, as you can see, its corners are more rounded. It stands 2.5" tall and has a ground glass stopper. On the front, "Elizabeth Arden New York - Mille Fleurs - net 5/16 oz." is enameled in black.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Mille Fleurs, introduced in 1939 by Elizabeth Arden, was a testament to the opulence and artistry of pre-war perfumery. It encapsulated the rich tradition of French fragrance-making, utilizing rare essences and prefabricated bases that imbued it with unparalleled depth and sophistication. The timing of its debut, just before the outbreak of World War II, lent Mille Fleurs a fleeting yet iconic status, as the world it represented was soon to change irrevocably.

The use of pre-war French essences was central to Mille Fleurs' allure. These ingredients, often sourced from Grasse, the heart of perfumery, were renowned for their unmatched quality. The richness and authenticity of these materials gave Mille Fleurs a complexity that resonated with its wearers, making it a prized possession. However, the devastation of the war disrupted the supply chains, and many of these rare essences became unobtainable. This scarcity eventually led to the discontinuation of the perfume in 1948, marking the end of an era for this exquisite creation.

Despite its discontinuation, Mille Fleurs lingered in the marketplace, with remaining stock sold at drastically reduced prices through 1951. For some, these discounted bottles were an opportunity to own a piece of luxury, while for others, they represented the last connection to a bygone time of elegance and refinement. The perfume's rarity and the stories surrounding it only enhanced its mystique.

Today, Mille Fleurs lives on not only in memory but also in the tangible legacy of its packaging. The gleaming gold-plated flacons, meticulously crafted to reflect the glamour of their era, are highly sought after by collectors. These bottles, often adorned with intricate detailing and bearing the name of the fragrance, serve as relics of a time when perfumery was both an art and a luxury. To own a Mille Fleurs flacon is to hold a piece of history, a reminder of the elegance and craftsmanship that defined Elizabeth Arden's vision.