L'Elan d'Elizabeth by Elizabeth Arden c1927

 L'Elan d'Elizabeth by Elizabeth Arden, launched in 1927, was one of five signature perfumes introduced that year, alongside other iconic fragrances such as La Joie d'Elizabeth, Le Jardin d'Elizabeth, Le Réve d'Elizabeth, and L'Etoile d'Elizabeth. These fragrances, sold exclusively in Elizabeth Arden salons, represented an innovative departure from the floral-centric perfumes of the time. Instead of focusing solely on blooms, the scents were inspired by human emotions and relationships, making them as unusual as they were beautiful. The perfumes were housed in square-cut crystal bottles of "exquisite simplicity," reflecting the refined elegance of Arden's vision.

The name L'Elan d'Elizabeth itself evokes an image of movement, vitality, and passionate energy. L'Elan is a French word, pronounced "el-ahn," which translates to "impulse" or "momentum" in English, often used to describe an enthusiastic or spirited action. The word also carries a sense of grace and charm, which aligns perfectly with the perfume’s purpose. To women of the 1920s, L'Elan d'Elizabeth would likely have been interpreted as a scent that embodied a sense of purpose and inner drive, a fragrance for women who were stepping into new roles in society with confidence and boldness. It was a name that suggested a certain elegance coupled with an irrepressible energy, capturing the spirit of the Roaring Twenties.

L'Elan d'Elizabeth was classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women, a genre known for its sophisticated, complex blend of floral notes with earthy, woody base notes. This fragrance was described as "rich, warm, and irresistible," capturing both delicacy and distinction. The composition was designed to evoke a sense of refinement, yet its underlying warmth and depth made it feel bold and captivating. The perfume was said to possess "the spiritual qualities of thoughtfulness" and was considered especially delicate, yet with an undeniable strength of character. It was a fragrance of distinction, offering ardor and enthusiasm—qualities that would have appealed to women of the era who were embracing new freedoms and expressing their individuality in bold, new ways.

In the context of the time period, L'Elan d'Elizabeth both aligned with and broke from trends in fragrance. The 1920s saw the rise of more complex and less overtly floral perfumes, with chypre fragrances gaining popularity. However, Arden’s L'Elan d'Elizabeth stood out by balancing the traditionally rich chypre base with an evocative blend of florals, creating a fragrance that was both warm and welcoming yet enigmatic. While other perfumes of the time, like Guerlain’s Shalimar (1925), captured the luxurious allure of oriental notes, L'Elan d'Elizabeth introduced a more modern, uplifting interpretation of the chypre style, making it uniquely captivating for women who desired a fragrance that exuded both grace and dynamic energy. In this sense, L'Elan d'Elizabeth was ahead of its time, offering a more refined and less overtly exotic alternative to other fragrances on the market, yet still fitting within the broader trend of increasingly sophisticated and multifaceted scents.

This combination of grace, warmth, and individuality in L'Elan d'Elizabeth made it an important fragrance in the story of Elizabeth Arden’s legacy. It embodied the spirit of the era—one of renewal, individuality, and the celebration of femininity. With its evocative name and complex composition, L'Elan d'Elizabeth captured the imagination of women who were eager to embrace life’s possibilities, making it a defining scent for those who sought elegance with a dash of daring.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It was described as "rich, warm and irresistible." It was suggested to be worn with clothes in shades of red, especially "Chinese rust," and cocktail of choice would be the Sidecar, a classic drink made from cognac, Cointreau triple sec liqueur, lemon juice and chilled water.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, mandarin
• Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, lily, ylang ylang, violet, orange blossom, myrrh
• Base notes: vanilla, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, tonka bean, labdanum, castoreum, benzoin

Scent Profile:

L'Elan d'Elizabeth opens with a fresh burst of aldehydes, cutting through the air with a clean, effervescent lift, almost like a breeze sweeping through an open window on a warm spring day. The aldehydes give the fragrance a sparkling, soapy quality that is both refreshing and elegant. As the aldehydes settle, the citrusy brightness of bergamot emerges, offering a slightly tangy, zesty burst, paired beautifully with the juicy, sweet essence of mandarin. 

Neroli follows, its floral-citrusy scent reminiscent of blooming orange blossoms, adding a soft, honeyed sweetness that complements the sharp citrus. The interplay between these bright, sparkling notes creates a lively and welcoming opening, one that feels radiant and uplifting, yet with a depth that hints at what’s to come.

As the top notes fade, the fragrance begins to unfold into its heart, where the true warmth and richness of L'Elan d'Elizabeth comes to life. The middle notes are a bouquet of flowers that evoke both femininity and sophistication. Carnation adds a spicy, clove-like warmth, mingling with the soft powdery sweetness of rose and jasmine, their combined essence creating an elegant, opulent floral arrangement. 

The sweetness of ylang-ylang drapes over the other florals with its creamy, exotic presence, while the violet brings an airy, green floral note, adding a delicate touch of springtime freshness. Orange blossom weaves in with a subtle citrusy undertone, contributing a soft, ethereal quality to the floral heart. Myrrh, though subtle, introduces a resinous warmth that deepens the floral composition, hinting at the richness of the fragrance’s base.

The base of L'Elan d'Elizabeth is where the fragrance truly becomes "rich, warm, and irresistible." The sweet, creamy scent of vanilla is immediately comforting, enveloping the skin with its rich warmth, yet it’s grounded by the deep, earthy tones of musk and patchouli, which lend the fragrance a sensual, animalic edge. Sandalwood’s creamy, woody aroma enhances this depth, adding a soft, smooth richness that feels both luxurious and inviting. 

Oakmoss, with its damp, green, forest-like scent, gives the fragrance a natural, earthy undertone, evoking the feeling of being in a shaded woodland, its leaves rustling gently in the breeze. Tonka bean follows, contributing a warm, slightly spicy sweetness, while labdanum’s resinous, amber-like richness adds complexity, tying the base notes together in a beautifully rounded finish. Castoreum, though animalic, adds a subtle leathery warmth, creating an underlying depth that enhances the fragrance’s richness. Benzoin, with its balsamic sweetness, envelops everything in a resinous warmth that lingers, leaving a comforting, seductive trail. Together, these base notes form a rich, layered foundation, giving L'Elan d'Elizabeth its unforgettable allure and making it as "irresistible" as it was described.

Home Journal, 1929:

"La Joie d'Elizabeth/Le Reve d'Elizabeth/Mon Amie Elizabeth / L'Amour d'Elizabeth These four perfumes — creations of Elizabeth Arden — are being introduced in Elizabeth Arden Salons throughout the world."

Harper's Bazzar, 1931:

"Miss Arden appears with a beautiful new perfume L'ELAN d'ELIZABETH "Tell me one English word that adequately defines '"L'Elan" won't you please?" I besought a lovely lady. "There is no one word, but this is what it means"— and she did a gay, whirlwind kind of dance."

 Vassar Miscellany News, 1934:

"LUCKEY'S PERFUME BAR ATTRACTS Many each day to its distinctive display of Elizabeth Arden Perfumes. We have these choice preparations: Le Reve D'Elizabeth —an elusive odor of dream-like charm: perfect for furs. La Joie D'Elizabeth —Happiness captured in fragrance L'Elan D'Elizabeth —Rich, warm and irresistible. Tuberose —The true odor of the flower itself. These fragrances are reserved for those who are sensitive to perfection in perfumes. They are priced at $1.00 a dram."

 

Bottles:

The cube-shaped crystal bottle, an enduring hallmark of Elizabeth Arden’s early packaging, is a study in elegant simplicity. Crafted from clear crystal, its geometric form exudes modern sophistication, perfectly aligning with the sleek Art Deco aesthetic of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The bottle's clean lines and precise symmetry reflect a sense of refinement that enhances the luxurious nature of the perfume it houses.

Adorning the front, black silk-screened enamel lettering provides a stark, graphic contrast to the transparency of the crystal. The lettering, delicately applied, not only identifies the scent but also contributes to the bottle’s minimalist appeal. Its ground glass cube-shaped stopper fits seamlessly into the bottle’s opening, completing the cohesive design. This precision fit ensured the precious perfume within was protected from evaporation while maintaining the understated elegance of the flacon.

Elizabeth Arden used this versatile cube flacon for several of her scents, including the famous Blue Grass. It was offered in three distinct sizes to suit different preferences: a diminutive 2-inch version, a medium 3-inch size, and the 5/16 oz bottle, somewhere in the middle which stands at 2.25 inches tall. Despite their small stature, these bottles were objects of luxury and desire, embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and aesthetic excellence.

A rare variation of this design elevates its collectible appeal—a luxurious version fitted with a chrome-plated atomizer mechanism with silken cord and bulb. These bottles were available in larger sizes and some were used as tester flacons in Elizabeth Arden salons, making them exceedingly scarce today. The juxtaposition of the polished chrome hardware against the clear crystal cube added a unique industrial edge to the otherwise delicate design. Because of their rarity and association with the glamorous world of Arden salons, these atomizer bottles are highly sought after by collectors, prized not only for their scarcity but also for their historical significance in the evolution of luxury perfume packaging.

The cube crystal bottle remains a timeless symbol of Elizabeth Arden’s innovative approach to design, merging functionality with an understated elegance that defined her brand and captivated the imaginations of her clientele.

 An exceptionally rare and remarkable find in Elizabeth Arden's collection is the largest version of the iconic cube-shaped crystal bottle, designed to hold an impressive 32 ounces of parfum. This grand flacon, a true statement of opulence, retailed for $125 in 1930—a staggering sum equivalent to approximately $2,307.49 in 2024's currency. The bottle's sheer size, combined with its luxurious design, made it a symbol of exclusivity and affluence, catering to only the most discerning clientele. Its substantial capacity emphasized the rarity and value of the parfum it contained, elevating it to a status beyond mere fragrance. Today, surviving examples of this monumental bottle are not only testaments to Elizabeth Arden's commitment to luxury but also prized artifacts of early 20th-century perfume history, coveted by collectors for their rarity and historical significance.

The launch of Elizabeth Arden's largest 32-ounce parfum bottle in 1930 is particularly striking when viewed against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This period, marked by widespread economic hardship, unemployment, and financial instability, saw a sharp decline in consumer spending. For many, luxury items such as fine perfumes were an unattainable extravagance. Yet, the existence and pricing of this grand flacon, retailing at $125 (equivalent to over $2,300 today), underscore Elizabeth Arden's strategic appeal to a niche market untouched by financial strain—wealthy patrons who continued to seek and afford symbols of refinement and status even in challenging times.

The bottle, with its monumental size and price tag, served as a beacon of aspiration and exclusivity. It was more than a container for fragrance; it represented resilience and luxury in a world grappling with scarcity. For those who could afford it, such a purchase may have been a means to assert their personal success or escape the grim realities of the era, enveloped in the glamour and comfort Arden's brand promised. This bold marketing move during the Great Depression highlights the duality of luxury—both a reflection of societal challenges and a celebration of enduring elegance amidst adversity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Both the perfume and its exquisite crystal cube bottles were crafted in France, a reflection of Elizabeth Arden's dedication to sourcing the finest materials and production for her luxury brand. The French origin of the fragrance underscored its prestige, with every aspect—from the quality of the ingredients to the meticulous craftsmanship of the bottles—carefully curated to exude sophistication. However, this reliance on French production proved to be a vulnerability with the onset of World War II.

By 1940, the escalating conflict and the resulting disruptions to trade made it increasingly difficult to import the essential ingredients and bottles from France. As wartime shortages and logistical challenges mounted, the Arden company was forced to discontinue production of this remarkable perfume. While leftover stock continued to appear in advertisements as late as 1944, the remaining bottles were sold at drastically reduced prices, a stark contrast to their original luxury positioning. This clearance marked the end of an era for this particular fragrance, which would never be produced again, even after the war's conclusion.

Today, the perfume's brief production period, coupled with its discontinuation during such a tumultuous time, has rendered it one of Elizabeth Arden’s most elusive and sought-after fragrances. The rarity of surviving bottles makes them highly desirable among collectors, not just for their historical significance but also as poignant artifacts of a world forever changed by the impact of war.