Cupid's Breath by Elizabeth Arden, launched around 1924, is a name that stirs both mythological imagery and an aura of romantic allure. The term "Cupid’s Breath" invokes the mythical god of love, Cupid, who in Roman mythology is often depicted as a playful, mischievous figure whose arrow could cause hearts to fall in love. The phrase suggests an ethereal, almost magical essence—like a light breeze carrying a whisper of passion or desire. The use of "Breath" in the name conjures images of something delicate, fleeting, and enchanting. It hints at an air of sensuality and mystery, a fragrance that would be experienced intimately and softly, lingering just enough to captivate the senses. The name would likely have appealed to women of the time as a representation of romanticism, making it the perfect choice for a fragrance aimed at evoking emotions of love, longing, and charm.
For women of the 1920s, Cupid's Breath would have been interpreted as a perfume imbued with the essence of romance and attraction. The 1920s were a period of great social change, particularly for women who were breaking free from traditional roles and embracing newfound freedom. A fragrance named Cupid's Breath would tap into the cultural zeitgeist of romantic love and the exciting allure of the modern woman. At a time when flapper fashion and independent lifestyles were taking hold, this perfume would serve as a playful, elegant companion to the woman's desire to embrace both beauty and seduction. The idea of "Cupid’s Breath" in scent would evoke the softness and warmth of a gentle floral, a fragrance that encapsulated not just beauty but also the mystery of love's effects on the heart and mind.
The scent of Cupid’s Breath would likely be interpreted as a delicate, floral blend with an underlying touch of sweetness and spice. Given its classification as a floral fragrance, it is reasonable to assume that the perfume captured the essence of blooming flowers, perhaps lilac as its core note, along with other soft florals. The name "Cupid's Breath" suggests a perfume that is not overpowering but instead subtle and captivating, like the fleeting but intoxicating moment of falling in love. The fragrance may have had layers that included airy, sweet florals balanced with deeper, warmer notes to create a harmonious blend of romance and mystery. Women wearing it would likely feel as though they were enveloped in a sensual cloud, drawing others to them with an alluring, unforgettable scent.
Launched in 1924, Cupid’s Breath fit neatly into the context of the time period, where floral perfumes were dominant. The early 20th century was a time when fragrances were evolving rapidly, moving from more heavily perfumed, synthetic concoctions to lighter, fresher blends that incorporated new synthetic materials. In the wake of the advancements in perfumery, Cupid’s Breath would have embraced the floral trend, particularly with its lilac-based composition. Lilac had already been a popular note in perfumes since the 19th century, but as new synthetic materials were developed, fragrances could be crafted with a much broader range of notes and more precise compositions. Cupid’s Breath likely featured lilac as its main floral note, enhanced with subtle hints of heliotrope, hyacinth, or other soft blooms that would have been appealing to women of the era who sought freshness, beauty, and a touch of elegance.
Fragrance formulas in the early 20th century often combined natural flower extracts with newly discovered synthetics, and this perfume would have followed suit. The lilac note itself was a perfect fit for the era, representing both nostalgia and modernity. As a perfume in the early 1920s, Cupid’s Breath would have felt in line with the larger trends of the time, offering a lighter, more whimsical approach to the florals that dominated the previous decades. It was a fragrance that spoke to the joy of life, love, and beauty, capturing the spirit of a modern, liberated woman who embraced both her romantic side and her independence.
The marketing of Cupid's Breath towards brides and mothers of infants in the 1920s seems to be a thoughtfully chosen strategy that resonates deeply with both the fragrance's name and the period's cultural values. The name "Cupid's Breath" evokes images of love, romance, and the beginnings of new life—concepts that are particularly relevant to brides and mothers. For brides, the association with Cupid, the god of love, is an obvious connection, as the perfume could symbolize the romantic, life-changing journey they were embarking upon. The delicate, enchanting qualities of the perfume would be seen as a fitting accompaniment to a woman's entrance into married life, where love and sweetness were central themes. The idea of Cupid’s Breath as a fragrance would likely have evoked feelings of warmth, affection, and gentle beauty, ideal for a bride on her wedding day.
For mothers, particularly those with infants, the name "Cupid's Breath" is equally appropriate. The word "Breath" in the name suggests something light and gentle, which would appeal to mothers looking for a scent that was subtle and non-intrusive—particularly when caring for infants who might be sensitive to strong fragrances. Moreover, the connection to Cupid aligns with the theme of love, which is often at its most profound in the relationship between a mother and her child. The idea of "Cupid’s Breath" as a symbol of nurturing, love, and care would resonate deeply with mothers, who, at that time, were often seen as the heart of the family. The perfume, then, would not only represent affection but also an emotional connection to the joy and love that comes with motherhood.
Elbert Hubbard, 1929:
"There has been originated for us in France, an exquisitely delicate, subtle, distinctive Perfume, sweetly enchanting, christened "Cupid's Breath." The vogue with mothers."
Elbert Hubbard’s 1929 advertisement further emphasizes the perfume's delicate and subtle nature, positioning it as a fragrance that appeals to a very particular audience—the mothers who sought a refined, elegant scent that was both "sweetly enchanting" and "distinctive." The use of the word "vogue" suggests that Cupid’s Breath was seen as an elegant, fashionable choice, particularly among mothers who appreciated its lightness. Its marketing strategy, tied to motherhood, reflects a desire to evoke an image of tenderness, care, and love. By aligning the perfume with the gentle, nurturing qualities of mothers, the advertisement capitalized on the emotional associations of femininity and maternal love.
The registration of the name Cupid’s Breath on July 24, 1928, solidified its association with Elizabeth Arden. The fact that the trademark was renewed in 1948 by the Elizabeth Arden Sales Corporation suggests that the fragrance, or at least the name, remained significant enough in the market to warrant protection and continued recognition. This longevity highlights the perfume’s lasting connection to ideas of romantic love, motherhood, and tenderness, making it a timeless offering in Arden’s line of fragrances. By positioning the perfume as a symbol of both love and care, Cupid’s Breath successfully spoke to the sensibilities of brides and mothers alike, weaving together the concept of maternal love and romantic allure in one delicate bottle.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. The perfume was described as "the pungent sweetness of pure lilacs" and was in a non-alcoholic oil form.
- Top notes: benzyl acetate, orange, cassie, citron, bergamot, lilac, hyacinthine, terpineol, aldehyde phenylacetic
- Middle notes: iso-eugenol, geraniol, cyclosia, iris, jasmine, tuberose, lilac, orange blossom, ylang ylang, rose, aubepine, reseda
- Base notes: vanillin, styrax, heliotropin, musk, civet, coumarin
Scent Profile:
Cupid's Breath, a floral fragrance enveloped in the essence of delicate blooms, opens with an intricate dance of bright and sweet top notes that immediately captivate the senses. The initial burst of benzyl acetate is like a tender wave of fruity sweetness, with its honeyed, slightly balsamic undertone that blends effortlessly with the zesty freshness of orange and bergamot. The cassie adds a rich, almost almond-like floral quality, its soft powderiness enhancing the light citrus and bright floral top notes.
Citron adds a crisp, lemon-like sharpness that invigorates the air with its clean, uplifting aroma. The lilac introduces a pungent yet delicate sweetness, reminiscent of the peak of spring when lilacs are in full bloom, their soft floral scent mingling with the slightly spicy note of hyacinthine, which hints at fresh greenery and tender floral blooms. As the fragrance swirls, terpineol adds a refreshing, almost pine-like cleanliness that complements the floral notes, while the aldehyde phenylacetic creates a soft, honeyed edge, lifting the composition with its creamy sweetness, evoking the sensation of walking through a sunlit garden in full bloom.
The heart of Cupid's Breath reveals a lush, complex bouquet, filled with the richness of florals that blossom like the first rays of morning light. Iso-eugenol, with its warm, spicy clove-like aroma, adds an intriguing depth to the composition, its warmth beautifully balanced by the floral sweetness of geraniol, which brings a rose-like sweetness with a touch of green. Cyclosia adds a soft, airy sweetness that grounds the fragrance in its florality, while iris introduces a soft powdery elegance that feels like a tender embrace, its roots lending a grounded and slightly earthy element.
Jasmine and tuberose, both heady and intoxicating, add layers of creamy, sweet floral richness, with the tuberose especially imparting a rich, waxy creaminess that is both sensual and heady. Orange blossom adds a delicate, sweet citrus-floral note, and the deep, romantic ylang-ylang brings its signature exotic sweetness, creamy and rich, that seamlessly blends with the rose and aubepine (hawthorn) at the core. Reseda lends an almost green, slightly sweet quality that rounds out the bouquet with a soft, fresh finish.
Finally, the base notes of Cupid's Breath offer a sensual, lasting depth that perfectly complements the vibrant floral heart. Vanillin provides a soft, sweet vanilla warmth, subtly creamy, enveloping the other notes in a comforting embrace. The styrax brings a rich, resinous sweetness, offering a gentle smokiness that pairs beautifully with the heliotropin, which gives a soft, powdery sweetness reminiscent of freshly bloomed flowers on a warm summer day.
Musk lends a smooth, animalic warmth that adds a velvety depth, while civet gives a faintly animalic sensuality, its presence delicately woven into the background. Coumarin, with its sweet, hay-like aroma, adds a subtle, earthy warmth, balancing the more floral notes with its soft, comforting fragrance that lingers like the final traces of a warm evening breeze.
Together, these ingredients come together in Cupid's Breath to create a fragrance that is not only a representation of spring’s most beautiful blooms but also a celebration of warmth, sensuality, and elegance, evoking the heady feeling of being surrounded by the sweetest of floral landscapes, soft and tender, yet rich with depth.
Bottles:
Cupid's Breath was packaged in a strikingly elegant and modestly sized presentation, designed to convey both refinement and exclusivity. The fragrance was typically sold in small 3/32 oz clear glass vials, each housed within highly polished, turned maple wooden cases. The simplicity and smoothness of the wooden cases contrasted beautifully with the delicate fragility of the glass vials. These packaging choices echoed the aesthetics of the early 20th century, reminiscent of those used for other notable perfumes of the era, such as Reiger's Flower Drops and Dralle's Ilusion. The wooden cases, polished to a mirror-like finish, provided a tactile contrast to the crisp transparency of the vial within, giving the fragrance a sense of value and refinement.
The glass vials themselves were compact and elegant, standing at a mere 2 3/8" tall. Their clear glass allowed the rich, golden hue of the perfume to shine through, subtly hinting at the fragrance’s floral richness. A little cut-glass stopper, with a long dauber, was used to extract the precious liquid from the vial. This thoughtful design ensured that even the smallest remaining drops could be carefully retrieved, adding to the sense of luxury and preciousness that Cupid’s Breath embodied. The stopper’s intricate craftsmanship and the dauber’s delicate design made each bottle feel like an intimate treasure, one that needed to be handled with care and reverence.
The gilded foil label, placed carefully on the vial, reads “Elizabeth Arden New York Contents 3/32 fl oz,” its subtle elegance reinforcing the understated luxury of the fragrance. The label’s simple design, with its metallic gleam against the soft glass and wood, exuded a refined sense of American craftsmanship, underscoring the high regard in which Elizabeth Arden’s creations were held.
Telegraph Delivery Spirit, 1950:
"A perfume especially appropriate for Valentine's Day is named "Cupid's Breath" and portends to have a fragrance of spring lilacs. Send white lilacs with a bottle of this, as well as with the bottle of the new Paris "lilac" scent, packaged in a special little Valentine box decorated with posies and paper lace."
In 1950, Cupid’s Breath found its place in the context of romantic gifting when Telegraph Delivery Spirit published a note about the perfume’s appropriateness for Valentine’s Day. The perfume, described as having the fragrance of spring lilacs, was paired with a bouquet of white lilacs in their mention, further emphasizing the floral, romantic theme. This pairing of perfume and flowers with such delicate, sentimental packaging—specifically, a Valentine box decorated with posies and paper lace—created an aura of youthful love and affection. Cupid’s Breath was no longer just a fragrance; it had become an emblem of romance, perfect for expressing heartfelt emotion during one of the most sentimental occasions of the year.
c1920s-1950s. Photo by ebay seller a_passion4vintagestuff
c1950s-1960s. Photo by ebay seller vals-cargo
Fate of the Fragrance:
Cupid's Breath made its debut in 1924, quickly capturing the hearts of many, particularly brides and mothers of infants. Its delicate, sweet floral fragrance, evoking the fresh, soft scent of spring lilacs, was seen as the perfect choice for moments of innocence and pure affection. For brides, the perfume symbolized the beginning of a new, romantic chapter, while for mothers, it embodied the tender, nurturing love they felt for their newborns. The scent’s gentle and non-overpowering nature made it ideal for women in these sensitive, emotional stages of life. The association with motherhood and marriage was reinforced through advertising campaigns, which portrayed Cupid’s Breath as a fragrance that embodied the innocence and purity of these life-changing milestones.
As the years passed, Cupid's Breath continued to appeal to women seeking a fragrance that exuded both freshness and sentimental value. Its popularity endured for several decades, remaining a favorite even after its initial launch. The last advertisement for Cupid's Breath that has been located dates back to 1963, suggesting that the fragrance lingered on the market for nearly four decades. This longevity indicates that Cupid’s Breath had managed to carve out a unique and lasting place in the perfume industry, favored for its light, floral notes and its association with tender, personal moments.
By the early 1960s, however, it seems that Cupid's Breath was nearing the end of its commercial run. Given that the ad from 1963 was the last known promotion for the fragrance, it is likely that it was discontinued around that time. Whether due to shifting perfume trends or changing consumer preferences, the perfume gradually faded from the market. Despite this, Cupid’s Breath remains a symbol of early 20th-century perfume artistry, cherished by collectors and those who remember it as a fragrance of love and purity.
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