Carnation by Elizabeth Arden c1939

In 1939, Carnation by Elizabeth Arden was introduced, and unlike many perfumes of the era, which often carried whimsical or abstract names, Arden chose a straightforward and descriptive title: Carnation. The name, taken directly from the flower it was meant to evoke, reflects both the simplicity and elegance of the perfume. The word "Carnation" comes from the Latin caryophyllus, meaning "clove," due to the flower’s clove-like scent. It instantly conjures images of fresh, velvety blooms in vibrant shades of pink, red, and white, filling the air with a spicy, floral aroma. Carnations, with their ruffled petals and fragrant, slightly peppery scent, have long been associated with love, admiration, and a sense of refined elegance.

For women in 1939, the name "Carnation" would have evoked the timeless beauty and grace of the flower itself, as well as a connection to the rich floral traditions in perfumery. Carnations were frequently used in both bouquets and corsages, often seen at weddings or as a symbol of admiration. The flower’s fragrance, a blend of spicy, sweet, and powdery notes, would have been familiar to those with a penchant for floral perfumes but also offered a subtle departure from the more delicate florals that were so popular. The perfume, therefore, would have felt both classic and modern—a tribute to a beloved flower, yet modernized with new fragrance innovations of the time.

Carnation by Elizabeth Arden was classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women, and its composition mirrored the trends of the 1930s while also nodding to the rich history of floral-based perfumes. The late 1930s saw a growing trend for floral fragrances enhanced with spicy or resinous notes, which helped to create a deeper, more complex scent. Perfumes like Carnation used spices such as clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg, drawing upon the natural richness and intensity of flowers like carnations. At the same time, the fragrance captured the sophisticated spirit of the times, as women were beginning to embrace bolder, more assertive fragrances, distinct from the light, ethereal florals of the past.

The scent of Carnation would have been interpreted as warm, rich, and sensual, with an unmistakable spice that distinguished it from the softer floral fragrances. The perfume’s composition, with its blend of carnation, cinnamon, and a hint of powdery sweetness, reflected the ability of perfumers at the time to create complex, multi-layered bouquets. The use of new synthetic ingredients such as cinnamic alcohol, eugenols, and heliotropin would have added to the fragrance's depth and longevity, allowing the perfume to stay true to the carnation flower’s essence while offering a fresh take on a classic scent. In a world still reeling from the effects of the Great Depression and on the brink of World War II, Carnation symbolized a return to beauty and elegance—a sensory escape into a world of soft petals, gentle spices, and refined femininity.

In the context of the other perfumes available at the time, Carnation was not entirely unique but rather part of a trend that saw florals becoming more intricate and multifaceted. It offered a balance between tradition and innovation, a fragrance that could speak to a wide range of women, from those who adored classic florals to those seeking something more daring and unusual. The fragrance reflected a period in history when women were becoming more independent, and their fragrances began to reflect that shift, with deeper, bolder choices that carried a sense of strength and sophistication. Carnation was both a homage to a beloved flower and a reflection of the changing times—grounded in tradition, yet forward-thinking in its expression.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: eugenol, Portugal orange, cinnamic alcohol, cassie, rose geranium, clove bud oil, nerol, pimento, Ceylon cinnamon, petitgrain, phenylethyl acetate, hydroxycitronellal
• Middle notes: linalol, orange blossom, rose, carnation, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang oil, iso-eugenol, heliotropin
• Base notes: terpineol, benzoic acid, vanillin, styrax, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, civet, ambergris

Harper's Bazaar, 1939:

"Gifts inspired by Elizabeth Arden's unerring instinct for knowing what women want...Carnation Perfume — $6.75, $12.50, $20.00."

Arts & Decoration, 1940:

"New designs in glass grow better and better, and the most interesting new forms in decorative glass have appeared at the spicy Carnation perfume in a nest of gay posies. From Elizabeth Arden."

Good Housekeeping, 1941:

"Elizabeth Arden...Carnation or White Orchid Bath Set (Flower Mist and Dusting Powder, $2.50)."

Scent Profile:

 Carnation by Elizabeth Arden, a spicy floral fragrance for women, offers a complex, multi-layered scent experience that opens with a bold and invigorating blend of top notes. The immediate impression is a burst of eugenol, the compound responsible for the warm, clove-like spiciness that characterizes carnations. It carries a spicy, slightly sweet edge, like freshly ground cloves, evoking a sense of richness and depth. Alongside this, Portugal orange brings a sweet, slightly tangy citrus note, brightening the composition with a zesty, almost sparkling freshness that cuts through the intensity of the spice. 

Cinnamic alcohol, with its cinnamon-like sweetness, adds warmth and an aromatic depth, while cassie introduces a subtle floral sweetness that complements the spice, grounding the fragrance in a soft, powdery essence. A hint of rose geranium adds an herbal yet rosy facet, a little green but with a delicate floral sweetness, while clove bud oil deepens the spiced profile with its sharper, more aromatic presence. 

The zestful note of nerol brings a subtle floral citrus aroma, while pimento (allspice) introduces a dry, peppery spice. The classic, aromatic freshness of Ceylon cinnamon lingers, adding a rich, warm heat, while petitgrain provides an uplifting green, slightly bitter citrus note. A delicate touch of phenylethyl acetate infuses a faint sweetness with hints of rose and honey, and hydroxycitronellal adds a soft, fresh floral note, reminiscent of lilies or other white flowers.

As the fragrance settles, the middle notes emerge, unveiling a rich, floral heart. Linalol, a compound often associated with lavender, brings a soft, slightly powdery floral tone that envelops the senses, offering a calming balance to the more intense spices. Orange blossom weaves its delicate, sweet and slightly honeyed scent throughout, bringing an air of elegance and refinement. Rose deepens the floral character with its timeless, dewy, and slightly spicy scent, contributing a sense of romance and femininity. 

The heart of the perfume blooms with carnation, its spicy, clove-like aroma woven throughout the bouquet, adding depth and warmth. The lush, creamy richness of tuberose swells in the background, with its heady, narcotic floral sweetness filling the air, while jonquil, with its fresh, green, and slightly honeyed fragrance, adds an uplifting quality. The fragrance grows even more opulent with the introduction of jasmine, whose heady, intoxicating sweetness intermingles with the other flowers, creating a rich, sensual texture. 

The classic elegance of orris introduces a soft, powdery element, reminding one of violet petals and antique cosmetics. Ylang ylang oil rounds out the middle notes with its exotic, sweet, and creamy floral scent, lending a tropical richness to the composition, while iso-eugenol deepens the spicy, clove-like intensity. Heliotropin, with its soft, vanillic sweetness, adds a light, airy touch to the bouquet, enhancing the floral sweetness with a subtle, almost almond-like nuance.

In the drydown, the base notes unfold with warmth and depth. Terpineol brings a fresh, piney sweetness, reminiscent of the scent of evergreen forests, adding a clean, crisp aspect to the base. Benzoic acid contributes a balsamic, slightly resinous quality, adding depth and smoothness, while vanillin softens the composition with a sweet, comforting warmth, evoking the scent of vanilla. 

The rich, resinous scent of styrax introduces a deep, smoky sweetness, like burning incense, creating a mysterious aura. Tolu balsam adds a warm, balsamic sweetness with hints of vanilla and wood, while musk lends an animalic sensuality, grounding the perfume with a soft, skin-like warmth. Benzoin deepens this richness with its resinous, sweet, and slightly vanilla-like aroma, enhancing the fragrance’s warmth. 

The earthy, woody undertones of patchouli bring a grounding, smoky depth, while sandalwood adds a smooth, creamy, and slightly woody richness, further intensifying the fragrance’s sensual allure. The animalic notes of civet lend an intriguing, almost wild undertone, adding a primal edge to the composition, while ambergris imparts a rich, marine warmth that enhances the fragrance’s overall depth and longevity.

Together, the notes of Carnation by Elizabeth Arden create a multifaceted, spicy floral fragrance that balances warmth, floral sweetness, and rich, resinous depth. The perfume is a celebration of the carnation flower, but it is also an intricate, sophisticated composition that evokes warmth, sensuality, and timeless elegance.

Bottles: 

1930s Elizabeth Arden Carnation perfume bottle and stopper, clear glass, labels, sealed, box (plastic cover as is). 2 1/4 in. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction.

c1930s Elizabeth Arden Carnation perfume bottle and stopper, clear glass, interior blown flower, sealed, hang tag, box. 2 in. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction.

"Carnation," a special miniature perfume bottle for Elizabeth Arden, circa 1930s, in clear and opaque green glass with interior blown flower and hang tag, in original window box. L of box 4 in (10 cm) Photo by Rago Arts

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.