The name "Poppye" evokes both a sense of delicate beauty and hidden mystery. The word itself is a playful, altered version of the common poppy flower, with the "e" adding a soft, feminine flourish to the word, hinting at something more exotic and luxurious. Pronounced as "Poh-pee," it’s a name that rolls off the tongue with an almost whimsical, yet sensual allure. Poppies, often associated with both sleep and sensuality due to their connection with opium, bring an image of vivid, scarlet petals swaying gently in the breeze—a delicate flower that beckons with its bright, alluring beauty. To women in the 1920s, "Poppye" would have conjured both innocence and indulgence, a flower known for its beauty and its whispered mysteries. In this context, the name would speak of a sophisticated, enigmatic femininity—one that combines softness with a touch of untamed allure. It would evoke feelings of romance, sensuality, and a hint of the exotic.
By naming the fragrance Poppye, Elizabeth Arden was tapping into the cultural imagination of the time. In the aftermath of World War I, women were embracing a new era of freedom, sophistication, and boldness. The 1920s was a decade of change—flapper dresses, jazz music, and a more liberated approach to beauty and fashion. "Poppye" would have felt like the fragrance of a modern woman: confident, alluring, and not afraid to indulge in something a bit exotic and mysterious. The term itself would have struck a romantic chord, while at the same time, the "golden" hue of the fragrance would symbolize a sense of preciousness, wealth, and glamour—qualities that the women of the era, who were moving into a more progressive time, would have embraced.
Poppye was classified as an aromatic oriental floral fragrance, and this genre was quite popular in the 1920s, aligning with other perfumes of the time like Shalimar by Guerlain and Chanel No. 5—rich, sophisticated, and complex fragrances with both floral and spicy elements. While Poppye would have resonated with the luxurious and exotic themes of the era, it was still distinct. The "languorous" and "melting mystical scent" described in its marketing speaks to the soft, almost narcotic quality of poppies themselves, with their tender petals hiding a deep, intoxicating fragrance. The interplay of floral sweetness and spicy warmth would have reflected the rich, multi-layered personality of the modern woman, someone who was sophisticated yet mysterious.
The time in which Poppye was launched saw an interesting shift in the perfume world. The late 19th century and early 20th century had been dominated by heavy, opulent floral perfumes, but by the 1920s, there was an increasing focus on lighter, more experimental compositions. Fragrance houses were beginning to move away from simple floral perfumes and towards more complex blends, incorporating spices, resins, and synthetics that added warmth and depth. Elizabeth Arden’s Poppye tapped into this new trend, while also paying homage to the earlier popularity of floral perfumes, specifically those based on poppy, which had a brief but notable moment in fragrance history. The use of newly discovered synthetics like eugenol, coumarin, salicylate, and vanillin marked a period of experimentation and innovation, allowing for greater depth and complexity in scent profiles, which Poppye certainly delivered.
When interpreted in scent, Poppye would have opened with a soft, almost powdery floral sweetness—gentle and soothing, like the calm of a golden sunset. The middle notes, likely infused with floral opulence from the poppy itself, would melt into richer, warmer elements, embodying the "mystical" essence of the fragrance. The "golden" hue of the scent is mirrored in the richness of its base notes, which would be grounded in warm, sweet balsamic tones—perhaps from coumarin and vanillin—that would linger like a golden, sun-kissed memory. The overall impression would have been both tender and intoxicating, drawing women of the time into a world where beauty, sensuality, and mystery entwined in the soft, languorous embrace of a luxurious scent.
In sum, Poppye by Elizabeth Arden, with its exotic floral-spicy blend, captured the spirit of the 1920s—a time of reinvention and bold expressions of femininity. It offered a fragrance that was both timeless and forward-thinking, combining the allure of nature with the burgeoning power of synthetic ingredients, creating a scent that was as rich and mysterious as the women it was made for.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aromatic oriental floral fragrance for women. It was described as "languorous" with a "melting mystical scent". It's precious hue was golden. "An aromatic scent in a beautiful bottle with a stopper like a yellow poppy, and brightly colored flowered box."
- Top notes: salicylate, amyl salicylate, bergamot, lavender
- Middle notes: geranium, thyme, jasmine, eugenol
- Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, vanillin, oakmoss, coumarin
Scent Profile:
As you first inhale the top notes of Poppye, a wave of bright, effervescent bergamot sweeps over you. It's a crisp, citrusy burst, lively and fresh, but with a smooth undertone that hints at something more complex beneath the surface. The lavender follows close behind, soft and herbaceous, with a calming presence that balances the sharp citrus. It’s not the heavy, medicinal lavender you might expect, but one that’s lightly floral, with a hint of soft green freshness.
But it’s the salicylate and amyl salicylate that add a fascinating twist to the opening. These two ingredients, with their sweet, slightly floral and fruity nuances, immediately conjure a sense of warmth and nostalgia, like the tender sweetness of a freshly blooming flower under the sun, intoxicating and full of promise. There’s something languid about this combination, as though it’s melting into your senses, ready to envelop you in its rich embrace.
As the fragrance evolves into the middle notes, the scent becomes deeper, more complex, and more enveloping. The geranium adds a subtle, green, slightly rosy edge, infusing the fragrance with a clean, refreshing quality. There’s a herbaceous bite to it, but it’s softened by the rich, floral heart that starts to emerge. Thyme enters with a light spiciness, adding depth and an earthy sharpness that evokes the wild, sun-dappled herbs of a garden.
It’s the presence of jasmine that really elevates the heart of Poppye, though. Its creamy, lush, almost intoxicating sweetness wraps itself around the other notes, lifting the fragrance to a soft, romantic dimension. There’s a richness to jasmine—heady and full-bodied—that lingers on your skin, blending seamlessly with the spicy warmth of eugenol, a clove-like ingredient that adds a warm, sensual kick. The eugenol brings a spicy richness to the floral heart, giving it a velvet texture, creating the illusion of something deeply sensual and mysterious.
As the fragrance reaches its base, it settles into a golden, enveloping warmth. The sandalwood here is smooth and creamy, with a soft, milky woodiness that gives the scent an almost tactile, comforting feel. It’s like being wrapped in a soft cashmere blanket, warm yet light. Ambergris adds an almost animalic complexity—soft, musky, and slightly salty, it brings a touch of the sea’s mystery, as though the scent is taking on the richness of the earth and ocean in one breath.
The vanillin sweetens the base with a soft, vanilla-like warmth, its comforting sweetness merging beautifully with the deeper, more resinous notes. The fragrance gains weight as oakmoss adds a rich, green, earthy quality, reminiscent of walking through a damp forest after rain, while coumarin introduces a smooth, sweet hay-like warmth that’s almost gourmand, rounding out the composition with a soft, powdery finish.
Altogether, Poppye by Elizabeth Arden feels like a golden, melting dream. It’s a fragrance that draws you in with its opening brightness, only to reveal a soft, languorous sensuality as it warms on your skin. The mystical, golden hues of the scent are reflected in the imagery of the bottle—a delicate yellow poppy stopper, evoking both the lightness and depth of the fragrance it holds. It’s a scent that speaks of romance, allure, and a touch of mystery, wrapping you in its golden embrace, like a summer afternoon where time slows down and the world feels soft and indulgent.
Bottle:
Atop this beautiful crystal base sits a stopper that is nothing short of a work of art—an open poppy flower, meticulously crafted from glass. The stopper, shaped to resemble the delicate petals of a yellow poppy, is enameled in a deep, radiant yellow, contrasting with the rich, velvety black of the flower’s center. The yellow poppy stopper provides a visual connection to the fragrance's name, evoking the essence of golden fields and the warmth of summer days. This poppy-shaped detail is not only a functional closure but an exquisite finishing touch that draws the eye and invites admiration.
The Poppye perfume bottle is presented in a stunning cylindrical box, wrapped in brightly colored paper that brings the exotic allure of the fragrance to life. The paper itself is adorned with vibrant poppy flowers and lush foliage, transporting the viewer to a distant, sun-soaked garden. The lively colors of the box echo the energetic spirit of the fragrance, hinting at its floral depth and the complexity that lies within the bottle. This vibrant presentation suggests that Poppye is a fragrance meant to be both a sensory and visual delight, making it a perfect gift or addition to a woman’s vanity.
When Poppye was launched in 1928, the perfume retailed for $10.50—a price that, when adjusted for inflation, would be the equivalent of $191.59 in 2024. This price point placed it firmly in the realm of luxury, intended for those who appreciated not only the finest fragrances but also the art of presentation. The perfume’s striking bottle and its beautifully crafted box reflected Elizabeth Arden’s commitment to creating an all-encompassing experience of elegance and beauty.
The fragrance itself, described in Harper’s Bazaar in 1922 as “a haunting fragrance in a clouded glass bottle and an exotic box,” was clearly as much about the presentation as it was about the scent. This intoxicating packaging not only safeguarded the precious perfume within but also created an aura of mystery and intrigue, drawing in customers with its visual appeal and promising a rare sensory experience. The bottle, the stopper, and the box—all combined—serve as a testament to the glamour and artistry that Elizabeth Arden brought to the world of fragrance during the Roaring Twenties.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched around 1920, Poppye by Elizabeth Arden quickly captured the attention of those seeking a unique and exotic fragrance, but its journey was a brief one. By the mid-1930s, the perfume had been discontinued, largely due to its packaging no longer available, most likely stemming from the economic pressures of the Great Depression. Poppye had originally retailed for $10.50, a price that positioned it as a luxurious fragrance for the sophisticated woman of the 1920s. However, as the Depression deepened, this price point became unsustainable, and by the time the perfume was pulled from the market, ads had appeared in newspapers showing drastic price reductions, such as $3.95 for a bottle—an indication that sales had significantly faltered. Adjusted for inflation, that figure equals to about $91.68 in 2024's money, still not quite that cheap for the time period.
The discontinuation of Poppye around 1935 marked the end of an era for Elizabeth Arden’s bold and innovative fragrance offerings. As the economic landscape shifted, fewer consumers had the means to indulge in luxury perfumes, and the demand for Poppye dwindled. With its departure from the market, Poppye joined the ranks of other discontinued fragrances of the time, leaving behind a sense of rarity and nostalgia.
Today, Poppye remains one of the most elusive and sought-after fragrances in the history of Elizabeth Arden’s collection. Its unique combination of aromatic floral notes, presented in a striking Depinoix crystal bottle, has made it a treasure for collectors. The bottle, with its bell-shaped crystal body, frosted vertical lines, and iconic yellow poppy stopper, is particularly prized among those who appreciate the art of perfume packaging. This bottle is considered a work of art in its own right, and its rarity only adds to its allure. As one of the few remaining examples of 1920s perfume craftsmanship, Poppye has become a symbol of a bygone era, evoking both the elegance of the Roaring Twenties and the melancholic beauty of an age that slipped away too quickly.
The discontinuation of Poppye and its subsequent scarcity in the perfume world only enhances its mystique. While the fragrance itself is a distant memory, the iconic bottle and its golden hue continue to captivate those who are fortunate enough to own a piece of this rare piece of perfume history.
No comments:
Post a Comment