Ma Rue by Elizabeth Arden c1932

Launched in 1932 during the Great Depression, Ma Rue by Elizabeth Arden carries an intriguing name that evokes a sense of sophisticated charm and mystery. The name "Ma Rue" is French, translating to "My Street" in English. It is pronounced "Mah Roo," with the soft "Ma" carrying a sense of intimacy and the fluid "Rue" evoking the elegance of French streets. It feels like an invitation to step into a world of refined, Parisian allure, almost as if entering an exclusive neighborhood or a charming, hidden corner of a city. The name conjures images of narrow cobblestone streets lined with chic boutiques, delicate flower vendors, and the hum of high society; it suggests both familiarity and a subtle sense of secrecy, evoking a sense of personal yet sophisticated luxury. For women of the time, this name could have symbolized a way to bring a piece of that glamorous, European elegance into their everyday lives, offering an escape from the harsh realities of the Depression into a more romantic, cultured world. It felt like owning a little piece of Paris, even if they lived far from its streets.

The fragrance itself, classified as a fresh floral oriental, carries an intriguing duality. On one hand, the "fresh" aspect speaks to the radiant, floral nature of the perfume, and on the other, the "oriental" character hints at the deeper, more mysterious allure of the fragrance's base notes. When imagined as a scent, "Ma Rue" would evoke a sophisticated and refined femininity, with the fresh, floral notes serving as the delicate, light introduction and the oriental undertones suggesting an intimate complexity. This fragrance captures the sense of a woman who is elegant, yet with an underlying sensuality—a woman who is confident and cultured but perhaps just a little enigmatic. The "fresh" floral notes would suggest a sense of renewal and optimism, perfect for a time when women were seeking solace and beauty amid economic uncertainty, while the "oriental" base would tap into a growing fascination with exoticism, adding a sense of intrigue and adventure.

Launched in the midst of the Great Depression, when escapism and sophistication in fashion and beauty were sought after more than ever, Ma Rue was well-suited for the times. While many fragrance houses were introducing simpler, more accessible perfumes during the 1930s, Ma Rue stood out with its complex blend of floral freshness and oriental depth. It fell in line with the trend of the era, where perfumes were shifting away from the heavier, opulent florals of the past and exploring lighter, more modern compositions that still maintained an air of sophistication. 

At the same time, it reflected the era's growing interest in the exotic—particularly as cultural movements and global exploration brought more attention to far-off places in Asia and the Middle East. Perfumes of this era, like Ma Rue, often balanced an enticing floral heart with deeper, more sensual base notes, capturing the mood of a society looking for something new and alluring. The fragrance would have appealed to women seeking a bit of luxury during difficult times, allowing them to momentarily indulge in something beautiful and aspirational.

Ultimately, Ma Rue by Elizabeth Arden became more than just a fragrance—it was a sensory escape, offering a taste of the romantic, mysterious charm of Parisian life to women in America. It was both fresh and sophisticated, a reminder that even in times of hardship, there was room for elegance, mystery, and beauty. It tapped into the cultural currents of the 1930s while offering an enduring image of grace and confidence. The name itself, with its personal and slightly mysterious undertones, was perfectly aligned with the emotional needs and aspirations of the women who wore it.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral oriental fragrance for women. It is described as having a "lovely, fresh fragrance, definitely sophisticated. Oriental, a little mysterious."

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, petitgrain, aldehydes, mandarin, orange blossom
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, lily of the valley, clove, cinnamon
• Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, ambergris, musk, patchouli, civet

Harper's Bazaar, 1933:

"Newest beauty finds, useful and frivolous ELIZABETH ARDEN has just presented three perfumes, Moon Moss, Ma Rue, and Tube Rose. She is best known as a beauty expert, it is true, but that is no reason not to take her perfumes seriously. They are very beautiful and any perfumer might well be proud of them. Moon Moss, according to rumor, is Miss Arden's own favorite and that is easy to understand. It has a lovely, fresh fragrance and would seem to us quite suitable for any person or occasion. But Ma Rue strikes us the same way. Tube Rose is the.." 

Scent Profile:

Ma Rue by Elizabeth Arden is a fragrance that unfolds with an aura of fresh elegance, blended with a subtle exoticism. The opening bursts with the crisp and invigorating scent of bergamot, its zesty, tangy citrus notes, reminiscent of fresh morning air, creating an immediate sense of brightness and clarity. The neroli adds its delicate, floral freshness, carrying whispers of citrus as well, offering a light, almost ethereal floral note that enlivens the senses. 

Together with petitgrain, the fragrance takes on a green, slightly woody edge, grounding the citrus with a touch of soft bitterness. As the aldehydes gently unfurl, their sparkling, clean, and almost soapy aroma interlaces with the other top notes, adding an upscale, polished feel that heightens the perfume’s sophistication. The mandarin, sweet and tangy, bursts forth with a fruity warmth that infuses the composition with a sense of sun-kissed joy, while the sweet floral notes of orange blossom lend an alluring softness, evoking the scent of freshly bloomed flowers under a warm breeze.

As the fragrance settles, the heart notes unfold, and the complexity deepens. Jasmine takes center stage, its rich, intoxicating sweetness enveloping the senses with a heady, almost creamy warmth. The warmth is balanced by the lush, tropical sweetness of ylang ylang, which creates a vibrant, sensual floral aura, with hints of banana and custard-like creaminess. 

The addition of rose introduces an air of timeless elegance, the velvety, slightly spicy floralcy adding a depth of character and sophistication to the composition. In contrast, lily of the valley brightens the heart with its fresh, green, and slightly powdery scent, like dew on soft petals, giving a lift to the more opulent florals. The warmth of clove and the faintly spicy, sweet depth of cinnamon infuse the fragrance with an oriental charm, their piquant, aromatic warmth weaving through the heart like an exotic breeze, lending both mystery and warmth.

As the perfume settles into its base, the oriental nature becomes more pronounced, creating a deep, rich foundation that gives the fragrance its lasting allure. Sandalwood, creamy and smooth, wraps the composition in a soft, woody embrace, grounding the floral sweetness with its comforting, almost powdery warmth. The sweet, resinous touch of vanilla softens the warmth of the woods and spices, adding an indulgent, slightly sweet and sensual layer. 

Ambergris, with its animalic, salty-sweet complexity, creates an almost mystical aura, its depth and subtle warmth adding a luxurious, mysterious quality to the fragrance. Musk adds a soft, sensual finish, blending with the sweetness of the florals and the warmth of the base notes to create an intimate, skin-like warmth. 

Patchouli introduces an earthy, slightly spicy richness that anchors the fragrance, its deep, woody essence intertwining with the amber and musk to deepen the scent’s complexity. Finally, the civet, with its animalic, leathery warmth, gives the fragrance a final layer of depth and sensuality, adding a provocative touch that lingers like a whispered secret.

In Ma Rue, each note weaves together into a seamless composition of fresh florals, sophisticated citrus, and an exotic, mysterious oriental base. The fragrance captures a sense of elegance and complexity, its bright, uplifting top notes slowly transforming into a rich, sensual heart and base that evokes both timeless beauty and a captivating, almost untouchable allure. It is a fragrance that feels both sophisticated and mysterious, like a woman who effortlessly combines grace with a hint of intrigue.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Ma Rue by Elizabeth Arden, both in its elegant crystal cube bottle and its captivating fragrance, represents a rare moment in perfume history. Produced in France for Elizabeth Arden, the perfume embodied the charm and sophistication of the era, encapsulated in its artfully designed packaging. However, as the world descended into the chaos of the Second World War, Ma Rue was one of the casualties of wartime disruption. The onset of the war created significant importation challenges, making it difficult for the Arden company to obtain essential ingredients and the distinctive crystal bottles, which were sourced from France. These logistical difficulties meant that the production of Ma Rue ceased abruptly around 1940.

As the war raged on, Ma Rue became increasingly difficult to find, and the perfume was eventually discontinued. However, some leftover stock of the fragrance lingered in stores even after the war ended. Newspaper ads from as late as 1947 show that bottles of Ma Rue were still being sold, but at drastically reduced prices, reflecting the company’s efforts to clear out the remaining inventory. Despite these attempts, Ma Rue was never revived after the war, which solidified its status as one of Elizabeth Arden's most elusive discontinued fragrances.

Today, finding a bottle of Ma Rue is an extraordinary event. Its limited production and the subsequent halt in manufacturing make it one of the rarest perfumes in the Arden collection, and its crystal cube bottle is now highly sought after by collectors. The perfume, once a symbol of the elegance and refinement of the pre-war era, now stands as a fragrant relic of a bygone time, forever linked to the tumult of the war and the enduring legacy of Elizabeth Arden's contributions to the world of fragrance.