Tuberose by Elizabeth Arden, launched in 1932, is a fragrance that carries a sense of mystery and allure, evoking both the beauty and complexity of the flower for which it is named. The word "tuberose" comes from the Latin Polianthes tuberosa, and is pronounced as "too-buh-rose." It refers to a flower known for its rich, heady scent—often described as both sweet and spicy. The name itself evokes images of lush gardens in full bloom, its waxy, white blossoms unfurling at night to release their intoxicating fragrance. The tuberose flower is associated with deep passion and exotic allure, making it the perfect symbol for a fragrance designed to capture the essence of its namesake.
For women in the early 1930s, Tuberose would have been a bold, evocative choice. The time was one of cultural shift, with women embracing greater independence and freedom after the end of the First World War. The fragrance’s spicy, sweet floral profile was likely seen as a reflection of the strong personalities of women who were becoming more confident in their roles within society. "Tuberose" as a perfume name suggests sophistication and mystery, a scent to complement the woman who was poised and elegant, yet unafraid to express her deeper, more passionate nature.
Tuberose by Elizabeth Arden was part of a broader trend in the early 20th century where fragrances based on florals, especially those known for their intense, exotic scents, were highly popular. The 19th century saw the rise of tuberose-based perfumes, which were beloved for their complexity—at once sweet, spicy, and animalic. By the time Arden introduced her version in 1932, the fragrance world had evolved, and tuberose was being combined with new synthetic ingredients to create richer, more sophisticated compositions. Early perfumes often used natural extracts like tuberose tinctures, infusions, and absolutes, but as the century progressed, synthetics such as linalool, benzyl acetate, iso-eugenol, and vanillin began to be incorporated into these blends, enhancing and stabilizing the fragrance.
Elizabeth Arden's Tuberose offered an updated take on this traditional floral, blending the natural and synthetic to create a scent that embodied both timeless beauty and modern refinement. The perfume’s combination of sweet floral notes, subtly spiced with balsamic touches, and enriched with animalic undertones was designed to captivate and allure, making it perfect for the era's forward-thinking women. With its evocative name and deeply emotional essence, Tuberose captured the essence of the flower in a way that spoke to both the mystique of nature and the evolving landscape of early 20th-century perfumery.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy sweet floral fragrance for women. It was suggested to be worn with clothes the colors of either black or "lipstick rose," and the cocktail of choice would be the Champagne Cup, a drink made from cognac, Grand Marnier, syrup from Luxardo Maraschino cherries, Brut champagne or other sparkling wine and garnished with a Luxardo Maraschino cherry.
- Top notes: neroli, iso-eugenol, bitter almond, methyl benzoate, methyl anthranilate, methyl salicylate, benzyl alcohol, and benzyl acetate
- Middle notes: eugenol, carnation, phenylacetic aldehyde, linalol, tuberose, orris, rose, jasmine, orange blossom
- Base notes: vanillin, tolu balsam, ambergris, civet, musk
Scent Profile:
Tuberose by Elizabeth Arden is an opulent, spicy-sweet floral fragrance, where each ingredient unfolds like a delicate, layered tapestry. As you first encounter the top notes, there’s an immediate impression of freshness and complexity. Neroli bursts forth with its light, almost sparkling citrus-floral quality, evoking the bright, airy notes of a blossom in full bloom, with its subtle yet rich perfume of orange flowers. Alongside it, iso-eugenol brings a sharp, clove-like spice, imparting warmth and depth to the opening, while bitter almond offers a fleeting but distinct bitter-sweetness, both creamy and sharp, reminiscent of almonds dipped in bitter chocolate.
The addition of methyl benzoate lends a sweet, almost balsamic scent that softens the opening, wrapping the bitter almond in a more rounded sweetness. The methyl anthranilate adds an almost fruity quality, reminiscent of grape or citrus zest, giving the top a refreshing contrast to the heavier notes that follow. Methyl salicylate, known for its medicinal, wintergreen-like sharpness, adds a unique tang, giving a cool, minty edge to the fragrance's opening, while benzyl alcohol introduces a soft, sweet, almost powdery note, smoothing over the complexity with a creamy, honeyed undertone. Finally, benzyl acetate envelops the top notes in a delicate, fruity floral sweetness, reminiscent of ripe peaches and fresh flowers, blending seamlessly into the fragrance’s heart.
As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes bloom into their full, captivating beauty. The heart of Tuberose is rich with eugenol, its spicy clove and cinnamon-like warmth wrapping around the opulent floral tones. Carnation adds a peppery, sweet complexity, its spicy-sweet facets intertwining with the more floral elements, enriching the perfume’s body.
Phenylacetic aldehyde brings a honeyed, slightly waxy sweetness, like freshly picked flowers pressed into a delicate, perfumed wax, giving the fragrance a soft, golden glow. Linalool, a key component of lavender, adds a touch of smooth, gentle floral freshness, blending beautifully with the soft, powdery nuance of orris, which gives off an earthy, slightly woody aroma with a delicate, violet-like sweetness.
Tuberose, of course, takes center stage in this composition, its heady, creamy, white floral richness filling the air with a lush, intoxicating bouquet. The scent is almost narcotic, with its full-bodied sweetness, but balanced with a certain opulence that speaks of night-blooming flowers releasing their fragrance under the moonlight. Alongside this lush floral profile, rose and jasmine add their classic, sensual elegance—rose with its deep, honeyed sweetness and a soft, powdery undertone, and jasmine with its rich, intoxicating warmth that deepens the floral complexity. Orange blossom brings a soft, citrusy floral sweetness, adding a touch of lightness to the middle notes, while grounding the fragrance in a bouquet of timeless, romantic florals.
The base notes of Tuberose are where the fragrance gains its lasting depth and sensual warmth. Vanillin introduces a smooth, comforting sweetness, soft and velvety like vanilla bean, enveloping the floral notes in a gentle, warm embrace. Tolu balsam adds an amber-like, resinous sweetness that is both earthy and creamy, evoking the richness of warm woods and comforting spices. Ambergris lends its signature animalic and musky character, adding a salty, oceanic depth that contrasts beautifully with the sweetness of the florals, providing a sophisticated, lingering trail.
Civet, with its warm, musky aroma, enhances the richness and animalic depth of the perfume, giving it a subtly wild, primal allure. Finally, musk brings a soft, intimate warmth to the base, enhancing the fragrance’s sensual character and giving it lasting power on the skin, while maintaining its delicate balance of floral and spicy sweetness.
In Tuberose by Elizabeth Arden, each ingredient contributes to an unforgettable, multi-faceted experience—intensely floral, spicy-sweet, and warm, with just the right amount of complexity to make it feel truly exotic and alluring.
Harper's Bazaar, 1933:
"Newest beauty finds, useful and frivolous ELIZABETH ARDEN has just presented three perfumes, Moon Moss, Ma Rue, and Tube Rose. She is best known as a beauty expert, it is true, but that is no reason not to take her perfumes seriously. They are very beautiful and any perfumer might well be proud of them. Moon Moss, according to rumor, is Miss Arden's own favorite and that is easy to understand. It has a lovely, fresh fragrance and would seem to us quite suitable for any person or occasion. But Ma Rue strikes us the same way. Tube Rose is the.."
Harper's Bazaar, 1933:
"...La Joie, Le Reve, L'Amour, L'Elan, Tuberose and Moon Moss, atomizer included, $7.50 to $125."
Woman's Home Companion, 1934:
"Eight odors, all equally fascinating: La Joie d'Elizabeth, L'Amour, Le Reve, L’élan, Tuberose.."
Bottles:
The cube-shaped crystal bottle, an enduring hallmark of Elizabeth Arden’s early packaging, is a study in elegant simplicity. Crafted from clear crystal, its geometric form exudes modern sophistication, perfectly aligning with the sleek Art Deco aesthetic of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The bottle's clean lines and precise symmetry reflect a sense of refinement that enhances the luxurious nature of the perfume it houses.
Adorning the front, black silk-screened enamel lettering provides a stark, graphic contrast to the transparency of the crystal. The lettering, delicately applied, not only identifies the scent but also contributes to the bottle’s minimalist appeal. Its ground glass cube-shaped stopper fits seamlessly into the bottle’s opening, completing the cohesive design. This precision fit ensured the precious perfume within was protected from evaporation while maintaining the understated elegance of the flacon.
Elizabeth Arden used this versatile cube flacon for several of her scents, including the famous Blue Grass. It was offered in three distinct sizes to suit different preferences: a diminutive 2-inch version, a medium 3-inch size, and the 5/16 oz bottle, somewhere in the middle which stands at 2.25 inches tall. Despite their small stature, these bottles were objects of luxury and desire, embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and aesthetic excellence.
A rare variation of this design elevates its collectible appeal—a luxurious version fitted with a chrome-plated atomizer mechanism with silken cord and bulb. These bottles were available in larger sizes and some were used as tester flacons in Elizabeth Arden salons, making them exceedingly scarce today. The juxtaposition of the polished chrome hardware against the clear crystal cube added a unique industrial edge to the otherwise delicate design. Because of their rarity and association with the glamorous world of Arden salons, these atomizer bottles are highly sought after by collectors, prized not only for their scarcity but also for their historical significance in the evolution of luxury perfume packaging.
The cube crystal bottle remains a timeless symbol of Elizabeth Arden’s innovative approach to design, merging functionality with an understated elegance that defined her brand and captivated the imaginations of her clientele.
"Tube Rose," a perfume bottle for Elizabeth Arden, circa 1933, in clear glass, with enameled name labels, sealed in box (structure weak). Ht. 4 1/2". Photo by Rago Arts and Auction Center
An exceptionally rare and remarkable find in Elizabeth Arden's collection is the largest version of the iconic cube-shaped crystal bottle, designed to hold an impressive 32 ounces of parfum. This grand flacon, a true statement of opulence, retailed for $125 in 1930—a staggering sum equivalent to approximately $2,307.49 in 2024's currency. The bottle's sheer size, combined with its luxurious design, made it a symbol of exclusivity and affluence, catering to only the most discerning clientele. Its substantial capacity emphasized the rarity and value of the parfum it contained, elevating it to a status beyond mere fragrance. Today, surviving examples of this monumental bottle are not only testaments to Elizabeth Arden's commitment to luxury but also prized artifacts of early 20th-century perfume history, coveted by collectors for their rarity and historical significance.
The launch of Elizabeth Arden's largest 32-ounce parfum bottle in 1930 is particularly striking when viewed against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This period, marked by widespread economic hardship, unemployment, and financial instability, saw a sharp decline in consumer spending. For many, luxury items such as fine perfumes were an unattainable extravagance. Yet, the existence and pricing of this grand flacon, retailing at $125 (equivalent to over $2,300 today), underscore Elizabeth Arden's strategic appeal to a niche market untouched by financial strain—wealthy patrons who continued to seek and afford symbols of refinement and status even in challenging times.
The bottle, with its monumental size and price tag, served as a beacon of aspiration and exclusivity. It was more than a container for fragrance; it represented resilience and luxury in a world grappling with scarcity. For those who could afford it, such a purchase may have been a means to assert their personal success or escape the grim realities of the era, enveloped in the glamour and comfort Arden's brand promised. This bold marketing move during the Great Depression highlights the duality of luxury—both a reflection of societal challenges and a celebration of enduring elegance amidst adversity.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Both the perfume and its exquisite crystal cube bottles were crafted in France, a reflection of Elizabeth Arden's dedication to sourcing the finest materials and production for her luxury brand. The French origin of the fragrance underscored its prestige, with every aspect—from the quality of the ingredients to the meticulous craftsmanship of the bottles—carefully curated to exude sophistication. However, this reliance on French production proved to be a vulnerability with the onset of World War II.
By 1940, the escalating conflict and the resulting disruptions to trade made it increasingly difficult to import the essential ingredients and bottles from France. As wartime shortages and logistical challenges mounted, the Arden company was forced to discontinue production of this remarkable perfume. While leftover stock continued to appear in advertisements as late as 1944, the remaining bottles were sold at drastically reduced prices, a stark contrast to their original luxury positioning. This clearance marked the end of an era for this particular fragrance, which would never be produced again, even after the war's conclusion.
Today, the perfume's brief production period, coupled with its discontinuation during such a tumultuous time, has rendered it one of Elizabeth Arden’s most elusive and sought-after fragrances. The rarity of surviving bottles makes them highly desirable among collectors, not just for their historical significance but also as poignant artifacts of a world forever changed by the impact of war.
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