Note: Please understand that this website is not affiliated with the Elizabeth Arden company in any way, it is only a reference page for collectors and those who have enjoyed the Arden fragrances.


The goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Arden company how much we miss the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back your favorite perfume!


Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the perfume, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories), who knows, perhaps someone from the company might see it.

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Sousouki by Babani c1920

In 1920, the year Sousouki by Babani was launched, it was a time of profound cultural and artistic exploration, particularly influenced by the enduring popularity of Giacomo Puccini's opera "Madame Butterfly." Set in early 20th-century Japan, the opera evoked themes of love, betrayal, and cultural clash, resonating deeply with audiences of the time. The character Sousouki, Madame Butterfly's maid, symbolized fidelity and support amidst the tragedy of unrequited love and cultural misunderstanding.

The name "Sousouki" itself is derived from Miscanthus sinensis, commonly known as Japanese silver grass or susuki in Japanese. This plant is native to East Asia and holds cultural significance in Japanese aesthetics, often featured in traditional paintings and poetry for its graceful appearance and seasonal symbolism.

Babani's choice of "Sousouki" as a perfume name likely aimed to evoke a sense of elegance, cultural richness, and perhaps a touch of melancholy associated with the opera's narrative. In the early 20th century, naming a perfume after a character from a beloved opera would have appealed to those who appreciated the arts and sought sophistication in their fragrance choices.



For consumers of the time, a perfume named "Sousouki" would have elicited images of graceful Japanese gardens, delicate flowers swaying in the breeze, and the emotional depth conveyed through Puccini's music. It would have resonated with those who valued storytelling through scent, connecting them to the opera's themes of love, honor, and the clash of cultures.

Emotionally, "Sousouki" evokes a blend of nostalgia, romance, and perhaps a hint of wistfulness—capturing the essence of a maid who stood steadfast in her loyalty amidst the tumultuous backdrop of Madame Butterfly's tragic tale. The name itself conjures images of serene landscapes and subtle beauty, appealing to a sophisticated audience seeking to embody the elegance and depth associated with classical opera and Japanese culture.

Sousouki, like the pale, elusive fragrance of early wildflowers. Sousouki is delicate, graceful, the essence of charming femininity, a delightfully feminine fragrance reminiscent of organdy frocks and frilly underthings. Soft, appealing, it is the wistful fragrance of sachet. Use it on your underthings to match their soft fluff. Its delicate odors matches the softness of chiffon, the dim lights of evening.

Princess Mary Tourkestanoff, esteemed in the sophisticated circles of European society for her mastery in perfume blending, favored Babani Perfumes for their ability to harmonize multiple scents seamlessly, thereby enhancing personal charm with an artistic finesse. This continental approach to fragrance, emphasizing the art of blending perfumes to suit one's mood and attire, found its roots in Europe and was later popularized in America by Elizabeth Arden. Tourkestanoff famously likened the effect of Sousouki by Babani to "the kick of a cocktail," suggesting a lively and captivating allure.

In her expert recommendations, Tourkestanoff advocated for blending Sousouki with Babani's Chypre Egyptienne and Jasmin de Coree to evoke qualities of smartness, gaiety, wistfulness, and sweetness. This combination, in a ratio of 3 parts Chypre Egyptienne to 1 part Sousouki, promised a sophisticated and harmonious fragrance profile that catered to those who appreciated complexity and refinement in their scents.

For individuals inclined towards romance, elusiveness, and a penchant for novelty, Tourkestanoff proposed blending Babani's Chypre Egyptienne with Sousouki. This blend not only celebrated individuality but also encapsulated a sense of freedom and imaginative spirit, aligning with the wearer's unique persona and charm.

Furthermore, Tourkestanoff encouraged experimentation with personal fragrance formulas, suggesting blends like Sousouki with Jasmin de Coree and Fleurs d'Annam. These combinations, she noted, were designed to adapt to diverse moods and outfits, embodying the wearer's complexity while ensuring a distinctive olfactory signature that could not be replicated.

Ultimately, Princess Mary Tourkestanoff's advocacy for blending Babani Perfumes exemplified a sophisticated approach to personal fragrance, one that embraced creativity, individuality, and the art of perfumery as a means of personal expression and enhancement. Her recommendations underscored the versatility and allure of Babani Perfumes, positioning them as essential tools for those seeking to cultivate a captivating and multifaceted fragrance experience.



Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no notes on its composition. Whatever it was, it was described as " SOUSOUKI is soft, appealing. ... " and the "delicateness of sachet." "Sousouki" by Babani Perfumes, as described, embodies a soft and appealing character with the delicateness of a sachet. This suggests a perfume that exudes a gentle, powdery elegance reminiscent of vintage charm and floral sweetness. Drawing inspiration from its name, derived from the Miscanthus sinensis plant, known for its graceful presence in East Asian landscapes, the fragrance might incorporate elements to evoke a serene, natural ambiance.

For a soft, powdery perfume like Sousouki, the composition could be envisioned as follows:
  • Top notes: lavender, bergamot, aldehydes
  • Middle notes: orris, rose, jasmine, heliotrope, violet
  • Base notes: benzoin, vetiver, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk, ambergris, oakmoss

This combination would create a perfume that unfolds with a bright, aldehydic top, leading into a soft and powdery heart of rose, violet, and jasmine. The base notes of sandalwood, oakmoss, tonka bean, benzoin, lavender, orris, and vetiver would add depth and complexity, ensuring a lingering elegance that aligns with the delicate charm associated with a sachet. Overall, Sousouki would evoke a sense of timeless sophistication and gentle allure, appealing to those who appreciate refined floral fragrances with a powdery softness.





Bottle:


No. 1003. Our twelve extracts in an elegant gold box.








Fate of the Fragrance:



"Sousouki," a fragrance of intrigue and charm, met an uncertain fate as its journey through time unfolded. Initially launched to captivate with its soft, appealing aroma reminiscent of a delicate sachet, the perfume carved a niche in the hearts of those who sought its distinctive allure. However, the exact date of its discontinuation remains shrouded in mystery, leaving perfume enthusiasts to speculate on its eventual departure from the shelves.

Despite its eventual discontinuation, "Sousouki" continued to defy expectations by lingering in the market as late as 1939. This persistence reflected its enduring popularity and the lingering appeal of its unique blend, which continued to resonate with a devoted clientele. Whether cherished for its powdery elegance or its subtle floral notes, the perfume's ability to evoke nostalgia for a bygone era ensured its presence well beyond its initial release.

For fragrance aficionados and collectors alike, the lingering availability of "Sousouki" until 1939 marked a testament to its lasting impact. Its graceful departure from the perfume scene left behind a legacy of elegance and sophistication, reminding enthusiasts of its role in defining an era of refined personal fragrance choices. As time moved forward, "Sousouki" stood as a symbol of timeless beauty and the enduring allure of a well-crafted perfume.


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