Launched in 1935, Night and Day by Elizabeth Arden entered a world that was both glamorous and tumultuous. Named after Cole Porter’s iconic song from the Broadway play The Gay Divorcee, the perfume’s title evokes a timeless duality—the juxtaposition of light and dark, love and longing, passion and poise. The name "Night and Day" stirs a spectrum of emotions, from the bright optimism of daytime pursuits to the mystery and allure of evening romance. For women of the 1930s, the name would have conjured a sense of sophistication and possibility, resonating with the elegance of Porter's lyrics and the burgeoning freedom of a modern woman’s lifestyle. The imagery of "night" and "day" translated into fragrance suggests a composition that bridges contrasts: luminous freshness balanced by shadowy depth, vibrant florals softened by bittersweet, spicy intrigue.
The 1930s marked an era where perfume became an essential accessory for women expressing their identities and desires. The world was recovering from the Great Depression, and while luxury was scarce, perfumes offered an attainable escape into elegance. Fragrance trends leaned toward bold, dramatic compositions that mirrored the opulence of Hollywood’s Golden Age. Perfumes like Tabu by Dana (1932) and Shalimar by Guerlain (1925) were celebrated for their exotic, sensual character, while lighter floral fragrances retained a place for daytime wear..
Night and Day was unique for its time, blending the spicy, sweet floral accords of orchids and lilies with an exotic allure specifically marketed to women embodying vibrancy and mystique. This distinction, paired with Arden’s emphasis on the fragrance as an "exclusive creation," positioned it as a rare and aspirational choice. The bittersweet quality woven into the perfume—likely a nod to its spicy floral heart and almond-laced base—set it apart from the straightforward florals dominating the market.
Women of the 1930s likely connected to the perfume’s versatility, embodying both the modernity of their daily lives and the glamour of evening occasions. The spicy florals and bittersweet undertones mirrored the complexities of their roles in society, as they navigated new freedoms while holding onto traditional notions of grace and refinement. Night and Day, with its name, composition, and mystique, stood as a reflection of its era—a fragrance not merely worn but experienced, offering a piece of dignity and distinction in every drop
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy and sweet floral perfume and was based on orchids and lilies. The perfume was recommended to be worn by the "exotic, vibrant Latin type." Another floral perfume, but with a bittersweet aroma.
- Top notes: benzaldehyde, cassie, jonquil, Aurantiol, neroli, bergamot, isobutyl salicylate, amyl salicylate, mandarin orange, orchid, lily of the valley
- Middle notes: lily, eugenol, ylang ylang, tuberose, jasmine absolute, violet, rose absolute, carnation, pepper, orange blossom
- Base notes: vanillin, bois de rose, civet, bitter almond, benzoin, terpineol, coumarin, musk, rhodium, oakmoss, sandalwood, ambergris
Scent Profile:
Night and Day by Elizabeth Arden unfolds like a mysterious journey through an exotic, fragrant landscape. The opening awakens the senses with the bittersweet almond-like sharpness of benzaldehyde, blending seamlessly with cassie’s spicy, honeyed green quality. The sunny brightness of mandarin orange and bergamot cuts through with a tangy zest, their citrusy notes softened by the smooth floral nuances of neroli and the golden sweetness of Aurantiol, a synthetic essence by Givaudan. Orchid introduces a creamy, almost velvety floral accord, while lily of the valley lends its delicate, dew-drenched purity. Isobutyl and amyl salicylates add a subtle, powdery warmth, imbuing the top notes with an ethereal glow.
As the perfume deepens, the heart blooms in a rich, multi-layered floral symphony. Lily brings a fresh, slightly waxy sweetness, mingling with the heady richness of ylang-ylang and the intoxicating creaminess of tuberose. Jasmine absolute adds a sensuous depth, while the soft, powdery violet lends a nostalgic, romantic touch. Rose absolute and carnation provide a vibrant contrast, their spicy, clove-like facets enhanced by the sharp, piquant warmth of eugenol and a touch of pepper. Orange blossom rounds out the bouquet with a sweet, honeyed brightness, weaving together the vivid florals into a harmonious and captivating blend.
The base emerges as a seductive, warm embrace. The creamy sweetness of vanillin and bitter almond is enriched by the resinous depth of benzoin and the almondy, slightly woody tonka bean character of coumarin. Musk wraps the blend in a soft, sensual haze, while civet introduces an animalic, slightly feral undertone that lends the fragrance an exotic allure.
Bois de rose and sandalwood contribute a smooth, woody elegance, complemented by the earthy green nuances of oakmoss. Ambergris adds a salty, marine depth, while rhodium provides a subtle metallic coolness, creating a delicate tension that anchors the composition in mystery. The drydown lingers with a bittersweet harmony, evoking both passion and restraint—a perfect encapsulation of its exotic and vibrant inspiration.
The Delineator, 1935:
Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
The Illustrated London News, 1936:
Stage, 1937:
Harper's Bazaar, 1939:
Stage - Volume 15 - Page 103, 1939:
Ladies Home Journal, 1940:
Good Housekeeping, 1941:
Harper's Bazaar, 1942:
"Arden's "Night and Day" is different enough so that it takes a little getting used to, but is worth the trouble."
Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"Night and Day" toilet water complements the "Night and Day" perfume recently launched by ELIZABETH ARDEN. It may be used as a delicate perfume or after the bath as a mildly stimulating refreshing lotion. The subtly haunting, intangible, irresistible fragrance."
The Illustrated London News, 1936:
"Eau de Toilette, delicately scented with these Elizabeth Arden perfumes, Blue Grass, Night & Day and Jasmine."
Stage, 1937:
"Night and Day" is the new Arden perfume, $25"
Harper's Bazaar, 1939:
"Night & Day Perfume— $1.50, $12.50, $25.00."
Stage - Volume 15 - Page 103, 1939:
"ELIZABETH ARDEN— "Night and Day" is the new Arden perfume, $25, and there are some new mammoth bottles of "Blue Grass" that hold over eight ounces of scent, $60."
Ladies Home Journal, 1940:
"Twin Christmas Bells . . gay, festive . . . hold Elizabeth Arden's famous perfumes, Blue Grass and Night and Day . $3.75."
Good Housekeeping, 1941:
"Night and Day Perfume, 25.00. Other sizes (not shown)— $1.50, $3.00 and $12.50."
Harper's Bazaar, 1942:
"Night and Day Perfume $3.25."
Cue, 1949:
"Elizabeth Arden encloses her Blue Grass, Night and Day and It's You perfumes in heart - shaped, jeweled boxes at $2.25 and $3.25. She also puts a golden flacon of On Dit on a vermillion cushion in a transparent, heart-shaped box."
Other products:
Night and Day was available in parfum, eau de toilette and eau de cologne, as well as lipstick.
Night and Day was presented in several different bottles. A very rare examples is a French art glass flacon, topped with a hand crafted amber glass sun shaped stopper. The bottle only measures 2.25" tall. it has a clear acetate hangtag with serigraphy. It was housed in a wooden box with a clear acetate cover, blue confetti lines the upper edges of the box, the bottle is nestled in a bed of gathered yellow satin.
Night and Day's standard bottle is made up of clear crystal, a rectangular shape with a stepped design. The flacon has a notched glass inner stopper and a pale pink faceted round over cap. The label is gold foil paper. By 1937, the bottle was available in two sizes, retailing at $12.50 and $25.
I loved this fragrance and have never found another that I like as much. After all the years since it was discontinued it is difficult to remember exactly how it smelt.
ReplyDelete