Cyclamen by Elizabeth Arden c1938

Launched in 1938, Cyclamen by Elizabeth Arden embraced a straightforward yet evocative name, reflecting the flower that inspired it. The cyclamen, a delicate and graceful bloom, thrives in Mediterranean regions and parts of Europe, often growing in rocky or woodland areas. Its nodding blossoms, which seem to dance above their rounded foliage, are associated with elegance and understated beauty. The natural fragrance of the cyclamen is subtle, often described as fresh, green, and lightly floral with a delicate sweetness. However, the fresh flowers lose their scent quickly after being picked, posing a challenge for perfumers seeking to capture their ethereal aroma.

The word "cyclamen" comes from the Greek kyklaminos, meaning "circle," referencing the rounded shape of the plant’s tuber. This connection to classical language and form evokes timelessness, purity, and nature’s organic beauty. For women of the late 1930s, a perfume named Cyclamen would have resonated with these themes, offering a sense of refined femininity and connection to the natural world. The name conjures images of delicate blooms nestled in a serene woodland glade, appealing to women seeking a fragrance that expressed both grace and quiet strength.

In interpreting the cyclamen in scent, perfumers of the time turned to creative compositions. Since the flower’s essence could not be directly extracted, they crafted complex floral bouquets to evoke its character. These formulas blended notes to simulate the fresh, airy sweetness of cyclamen, often incorporating hints of green and spice for depth.

When Cyclamen debuted in 1938, it joined a market beginning to embrace modernity while still valuing tradition. The era saw fragrances moving toward richer, more complex profiles, blending natural ingredients with the emerging artistry of synthetics. Cyclamen perfumes had gained modest popularity earlier in the century, but Arden’s interpretation modernized the concept by incorporating newly discovered synthetic compounds like phenylacetic aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, linalool, and vanillin. These ingredients allowed perfumers to enhance the floral sweetness and add nuanced touches of freshness, warmth, and longevity.

The introduction of Cyclamen reflected Arden’s ability to reinterpret a classic floral profile for contemporary tastes. While maintaining the delicate charm associated with cyclamen, the perfume offered a sophisticated, fresh, dewy, green floral composition that aligned with evolving trends. Women of the time would have appreciated it not only for its elegance and modernity but also for the way it transported them to an idealized version of nature—calm, harmonious, and enchanting.

In an age when women sought to define their identity through personal expression, Cyclamen provided a fragrant embodiment of natural beauty and cultivated sophistication, standing as a testament to Elizabeth Arden’s vision for timeless and accessible luxury.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh, dewy, green floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehyde C10, cinnamic aldehyde, orange blossom, cyclamen, phenylacetic aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, linalool
• Middle notes: geraniol, ionone, tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, rose de mai absolute, cananga oil
• Base notes: rosewood, benzyl benzoate, incense, vanillin, musk xylene, benzoin, terpineol, ambergris

Scent Profile:

Cyclamen by Elizabeth Arden is a fragrance that greets the senses with a vivid, dewy freshness, evoking the awakening of a lush spring morning. The top notes open with the crisp, clean brightness of aldehyde C10, delivering a cool, soapy sparkle reminiscent of freshly washed linens in a breezy meadow. This effervescence mingles with the soft warmth of cinnamic aldehyde, which adds a hint of sweet spice, like a faint memory of cinnamon carried on the wind. 

The gentle citrusy bloom of orange blossom intertwines with the delicate green floralcy of cyclamen, forming a bouquet that is both airy and ethereal. Enhancing this are phenylacetic aldehyde and hydroxycitronellal, whose honeyed, green nuances evoke the crispness of crushed leaves and the natural sweetness of dew-kissed petals. A whisper of linalool adds a smooth, herbal undertone, grounding the sparkling opening with an aromatic softness.

As the fragrance deepens, the middle notes unfold into a richer, more sensual heart. The lush, creamy sweetness of geraniol introduces a floral warmth, blending seamlessly with the powdery, violet-like facets of ionone. The intensity rises with the intoxicating richness of tuberose absolute and the radiant opulence of jasmine absolute, their heady, narcotic aromas conjuring a twilight garden in full bloom. Rose de Mai absolute adds a velvety softness, its tender petals drenched in sunlight, while the exotic, slightly fruity floral aroma of cananga oil weaves through the bouquet, adding complexity and an undercurrent of tropical lushness.

The base notes provide a luxurious and grounding finish. The woody, slightly spicy aroma of rosewood creates a solid foundation, its smoothness amplified by the resinous warmth of benzyl benzoate. A smoky, mystical quality emerges with the inclusion of incense, curling through the composition like tendrils of fragrant mist. The soft, creamy sweetness of vanillin melds with the animalic, powdery allure of musk xylene, adding depth and sensuality. Benzoin and terpineol enhance the resinous richness, their balsamic qualities lending a comforting, amber-like glow. Finally, the earthy sophistication of ambergris ties everything together, imparting a subtle marine nuance that lingers like a whispered promise.

Cyclamen is a delicate balance of airy freshness and opulent sensuality. Each note contributes to a narrative of nature’s vitality and elegance, creating a scent that is both timeless and profoundly evocative. It captures the spirit of a woman stepping into her own power, enveloped in the beauty of the world around her.

Bottles:

The fan-shaped Baccarat crystal flacon designed to house this perfume is a stunning example of artistry and functionality. Crafted from opaque white crystal, the bottle’s elegant silhouette evokes the classic beauty of a delicately folded fan, a timeless symbol of grace and sophistication. Standing at 6 1/4 inches tall and spanning 5 1/2 inches across, it strikes an imposing yet refined presence. Its smooth, matte finish softly diffuses light, creating an understated glow that enhances its luxurious appeal.

The bottle's base is marked with two acid-etched inscriptions, a hallmark of authenticity and craftsmanship: “BOTTLE MADE IN FRANCE” and “BACCARAT FRANCE.” These marks are a testament to the heritage of Baccarat, a renowned glassmaker synonymous with quality and prestige. Designed to hold 1 1/4 ounces of parfum, the flacon merges practicality with unparalleled beauty, making it as much a treasure as the scent it contains.

What sets this presentation apart is the inclusion of a removable costume jewelry brooch, a thoughtful detail that elevates the bottle from a mere vessel to a multifunctional keepsake. The brooch, originally affixed to the bottle, adds a touch of glamour, inviting wearers to take a piece of the perfume’s allure with them. Whether worn as an accessory or displayed on the bottle, this embellishment enhances the overall aesthetic, making it a cherished item for collectors and perfume connoisseurs alike. This flacon is not only a testament to fine craftsmanship but also a celebration of beauty, utility, and luxury intertwined.

The New Yorker - Volume 14, 1938:

"Elizabeth Arden's newest, called Cyclamen, is a quiet, incense sort of perfume, and is subtle and lovely. It appears in a white bottle shaped like a fan, with jeweled flowers at its top, and is surrounded by a triangular case lined with cyclamen satin. Just as a decoration, it’s Something. "

Vogue, 1938:

"Elizabeth Arden Cyclamen setting — new perfume, negligee, and make-up."

Good Housekeeping - Volume 113, 1941:

 "Arden Cyclamen Perfume — fan-shaped bottles, $22.50 and $35.00."

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 44, 1940:

"When a house as conservative as Guerlain decides to add a soft orchid shade of lipstick to its lipstick shades, it is time to decide that the blue trend in lipstick is making history. It is pretty difficult to trace back just where it started — perhaps it was Schiaparelli's "Shocking" pink or Elizabeth Arden's "Cyclamen," but the fact remains as a result of these unusual shades, makeup and nail polish shades have changed."

Harper's Bazaar - Page 945, 1941:

"Blue Grass or Cyclamen Flower Mist in Peek-a-boo package, $1.75."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.