Oeillet du Japon by Babani c1920

In 1920, the period surrounding the launch of Babani's perfume "Oeillet du Japon" was marked by a fascinating intersection of cultural influences. This era was characterized by a growing fascination with Japan in the Western world, known as Japonism. This movement was spurred by Japan's increasing openness to the West following the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century, which sparked a surge of interest in Japanese art, culture, and aesthetics among European and American intellectuals and artists.

The name "Oeillet du Japon" translates to "Carnation of Japan" in English, with "Oeillet" being the French word for carnation. French is the language in which the name is derived, aligning with the Parisian roots of the Babani perfume house. The choice of "Oeillet du Japon" as the name for this perfume likely reflects the trend of Japonism and the allure of Japanese exoticism that captivated European imaginations at the time.

"Carnation of Japan" would have been a fitting and evocative name for a perfume in this context for several reasons. Firstly, carnations are known for their spicy and floral scent, making them a popular choice for perfumery. Secondly, Japan was seen as a land of mystery, beauty, and refinement in Western eyes during this period. By combining the familiar allure of carnations with the exoticism associated with Japan, Babani likely aimed to create an image of a sophisticated and intriguing fragrance that captured the essence of both the flower and the cultural fascination with Japan.

The audience for "Oeillet du Japon" would likely have been cosmopolitan individuals of the early 20th century who were drawn to art, culture, and the exotic. These individuals would have appreciated the perfume's name as it conjured images of delicate carnations imbued with the mystique and elegance of Japan. The scent itself would have been expected to evoke a blend of floral sweetness with hints of spice, reminiscent of carnations in bloom, while also hinting at an exotic allure that appealed to the adventurous and culturally curious.

Emotionally, the name "Oeillet du Japon" evokes a sense of refinement, mystery, and the beauty of nature. It suggests an olfactory journey to a garden filled with carnations, enhanced by the romanticized idea of Japanese aesthetics—a blend of delicacy, sophistication, and a touch of the unknown.

In summary, Babani's choice of "Oeillet du Japon" as the name for their perfume in 1920 not only capitalized on the popularity of carnations in perfumery but also tapped into the cultural fascination with Japan during the era of Japonism. It was a name designed to resonate with a sophisticated audience interested in both floral fragrances and the allure of distant lands, promising a sensory experience that merged the familiar with the exotic.

"Oeillet du Japon, Parfum du Japon, is fresh and spicy as sweet pinks in quaint flower beds, and is for moods that are prim, distant, tantalizing. A lovely rich perfume with a soft, lingering fragrance of carnation. So exquisitely true to nature that one might smell the flower and perfume simultaneously without detecting the difference. The perfume blended to express tailored smartness."

Mix Ligeia with Oeillet du Japon and you will have a perfume combining all the qualities of a romantic, luxurious nature with all the sophistication of Japan. 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet and spicy soliflore carnation fragrance for women. But I have no actual published notes on this composition. I would need a sample to tell you what it truly smells like.

Newspaper advertisements of the era described it as "fresh and spicy as sweet pinks in quaint flower beds, and is for moods that are prim, distant and tantalizing."

• Top notes: clove, cassia, jonquil, neroli, rose geranium, almond, petitgrain
• Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, rose, carnation, orris
• Base notes: musk, vanilla, storax, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, ambrette, covet

Bottle:

 No. 1003. Our twelve extracts in an elegant gold box.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Babani's perfume "Oeillet du Japon" marks a chapter in its history that remains shrouded in mystery. While specific details about the exact date of its discontinuation are elusive, the absence of "Oeillet du Japon" from contemporary perfume catalogues and shelves suggests that its production ceased at some point after its initial launch in 1920. This discontinuation could be attributed to various factors common in the perfume industry, including changes in consumer preferences, evolving trends in fragrance compositions, or strategic decisions by Babani or its successors.

For enthusiasts and collectors of vintage perfumes, the discontinuation of "Oeillet du Japon" adds a layer of intrigue and allure. Its absence from the market enhances its status as a sought-after item among those who appreciate historical fragrances and the artistry of early 20th-century perfumery. The rarity of finding a bottle of "Oeillet du Japon" today underscores its value as a piece of olfactory history, invoking nostalgia for a time when fragrances were crafted with meticulous attention to detail and cultural inspiration.

The legacy of "Oeillet du Japon" lives on in the memories of those who experienced its scent and the collectors who treasure its bottles as artifacts of a bygone era. Its discontinuation serves as a reminder of the transient nature of perfumes, where even beloved creations can fade from production, leaving behind only the lingering impressions of their aromatic profiles and the stories they once told. As fragrance enthusiasts continue to explore and celebrate vintage perfumes, "Oeillet du Japon" remains a testament to the enduring appeal of unique and evocative scents that capture the spirit of their time.

Still being sold in 1939.